Engine Temp
- Thread starter pokypa
- Start date
Peteandsharon
Well-known member
My F250 typically runs with a coolant temp at 190-192 unless A/C is running, in which case it bumps up to about 196.
dave10a
Well-known member
I have no idea what my temperatures and pressures are, but my engine and transmission gauge are always in the middle regardless what and where I am pulling coast to coast. Also the OBC is keeping close track of the parameters if something goes wrong. Ford has done a great job at designing the cooling systems and monitoring system for all kinds of situations and I suspect the other manufacturers have as well. It is not like the old days when the cooling systems were marginal and required after market coolers for pulling in hot weather. Today's auto manufacturers are doing a much better job in their design limits. However one must keep track of the nitrates for diesel engines to minimize corrosion.
camr
Well-known member
Dave, keep an eye on the lower drivers side corner of your rad. Ford has a known issue with rad leaks, always at this same location. The drip will be caught on the inside bumper lip. I was caught by this 1000 miles past warranty to the tune of $2000. The grill and AC condenser must be removed before starting the repair. It is a common, known issue and is frequently posted on Ford forums. It is the only issue we have had with our 2011 F-250, but $2K on a truck that was barely broken in sure hurts.
Last edited:
Agree, my 2007 will drift over the 200 degree mark regularly then will move slightly below.
About 18 mos. ago while in Fl. noticed it drifted up to 215 or so and after a couple days took it to a dealer and turned out to be a bad water pump. Just keep an eye on it but at 203 I'd say it's normal.
teasac69
Well-known member
Funny thing, 2011 Dodge 6.7; engine temp ran consistently around 196 + or - a few degrees whether towing my BH or not. last week had check engine light come on and indicated engine too cool. Our weather changed like everyone else and we were having cold temps. temp indicated 165-175; Diagnosed with bad thermostat and engine temp sensor; changed out both, new antifreeze (at dealer) and now engine consistently warms up quickly, temp hovers around 203, went up to 208 then after 10-15 miles, stays pretty much at 203??? any concerns? 84,000 total miles, trans flush and filter change week before check engine light. headed out on long trip this weekend. 
JanAndBill
Well-known member
Not sure on the Cummins, but I would guess they are like my Ford in that they run a little hotter. The thermostat on my 6.0 doesn't even start to open until 195 and isn't fully open until 215, which is also when it trigger's the fan to kick in. You didn't say, but are you using the truck's gauges? Manufacturer's gauges are notoriously not that accurate.
wdk450
Well-known member
I think that the temp to especially watch on diesels is the Exhaust Gas Temperature. I had to get an add-on gauge for this. My red line is 1200 degrees, yellow line 1100 degrees. I can have it up to 1100 degrees for several miles on an upgrade, and while the coolant temperature comes nowhere near red line, it does heat up some. Meanwhile, I have been told that aluminum starts to soften at 1300 degrees. So when I'm cruising, I override the cruise control at 1000 degrees EGT and slow down (if necessary), or even downshift to keep EGT's in the acceptable range.
I also monitor the EGT gauge before shutting down the engine. I have been told that having the EGT (akin to the turbo temperature) over 400 degrees when shutting the engine down can cause the non-circulating engine oil in the turbo bearings "coke" (turn to carbon).
I also monitor the EGT gauge before shutting down the engine. I have been told that having the EGT (akin to the turbo temperature) over 400 degrees when shutting the engine down can cause the non-circulating engine oil in the turbo bearings "coke" (turn to carbon).
teasac69
Well-known member
Funny thing, 2011 Dodge 6.7; engine temp ran consistently around 196 + or - a few degrees whether towing my BH or not. last week had check engine light come on and indicated engine too cool. Our weather changed like everyone else and we were having cold temps. temp indicated 165-175; Diagnosed with bad thermostat and engine temp sensor; changed out both, new antifreeze (at dealer) and now engine consistently warms up quickly, temp hovers around 203, went up to 208 then after 10-15 miles, stays pretty much at 203??? any concerns? 84,000 total miles, trans flush and filter change week before check engine light. headed out on long trip this weekend.
I called the dealer back today to share the experience and see what they say. They claim the thermostat and settings are designed to hold the temp around that 203-210 range and it performs best in that temp range, i.e. horsepower, fuel efficiency, etc.
I do agree the EGT is the best temp to monitor for quickly reaching a high point. I actually don't monitor the engine temp in the window on the dash but keep the transmission temp in that window so when I start to pull a grade I can see if things are heating up. I'm going to get an EGT temp gauge mounted and start to watch it closer.
porthole
Retired
EGT readings are a helpful tool, but, unless you know where the reading is coming from and what the standard is for that location, it is just "info".
Pre turbo? Post turbo? Exhaust manifold? Readings can vary 500 degrees.
Gauge type? Mechanical or electronic, computer driven?
When I had my GMC I did a few things to the truck, along the way I added pyrometers, one to each exhaust manifold in the same relative position.
The left bank had a mechanical gauge and the right bank was wired to a banks controller, so the temp readings were through the Banks digital display. They both read different temps.
Modern trucks are programmed to not let the engine self destroy. IF the temps start to enter a "red zone" the engine management will start to "de-fuel" the engine, cutting power.
My Ford has 4 exhaust gas temperature sensors. I would need an aftermarket data display or programmer to see what those readings are. But, it will not change the way I drive - watching the gauges, if it gets too hot, the ECM and PCM's will make the necessary adjustments to protect the engine.
Now that said. I have pyrometers in my "very old school" twin diesel boat (6-71 TI's). I run that by the pyros all the time. To make sure that I didn't overload the engine and to help match the load between the two engines.
There are no built in safe guards in a mechanical injection diesel, especially 2 stroke Detroit's.
Our older Mack fire engines had pyrometers that we were supposed to drive by. Useless info. Guys driving to fires never looked at the gauge and when we would be maxing out the pump flowing water the gauge was useless anyways, it was up on the dash.
Those 1978 Macks were the last fire rigs we had with pyro's.
Pre turbo? Post turbo? Exhaust manifold? Readings can vary 500 degrees.
Gauge type? Mechanical or electronic, computer driven?
When I had my GMC I did a few things to the truck, along the way I added pyrometers, one to each exhaust manifold in the same relative position.
The left bank had a mechanical gauge and the right bank was wired to a banks controller, so the temp readings were through the Banks digital display. They both read different temps.
Modern trucks are programmed to not let the engine self destroy. IF the temps start to enter a "red zone" the engine management will start to "de-fuel" the engine, cutting power.
My Ford has 4 exhaust gas temperature sensors. I would need an aftermarket data display or programmer to see what those readings are. But, it will not change the way I drive - watching the gauges, if it gets too hot, the ECM and PCM's will make the necessary adjustments to protect the engine.
Now that said. I have pyrometers in my "very old school" twin diesel boat (6-71 TI's). I run that by the pyros all the time. To make sure that I didn't overload the engine and to help match the load between the two engines.
There are no built in safe guards in a mechanical injection diesel, especially 2 stroke Detroit's.
Our older Mack fire engines had pyrometers that we were supposed to drive by. Useless info. Guys driving to fires never looked at the gauge and when we would be maxing out the pump flowing water the gauge was useless anyways, it was up on the dash.
Those 1978 Macks were the last fire rigs we had with pyro's.
wdk450
Well-known member
My 2004 6 cylinder 5.9 liter Cummins Diesel has 1 exhaust manifold. The mechanical pyro sensor is mounted in the middle of the downward curve of the combined exhaust section of the manifold, pre-turbo.
porthole
Retired
Your 2004 doesn't have the same controls as the newer trucks, so your EGT could be more of a watch point for you.
But, you need to find out what is normal for that location, the way your truck is setup (stock or modified), your loads and how you drive.
All that aside and back to gauges. There is a reason why automotive manufacturers got away form gauges for a period of time. People s[pent too much time looking at the gauges and coming in for service based on what they read.
Here is a bit of history. Before the advent of modern technology, automotive dash cluster gauges were fed a signal from sensors, oil pressure, engine temp etc to a bi-metal mechanical gauge. When we had customers that consistently brought cars in for "low oil pressure" or high engine temp, we would simply "adjust" the gauges. There were low and high limit adjustments right on the back of the gauges.
JanAndBill
Well-known member
"Modern trucks are programmed to not let the engine self destroy. IF the temps start to enter a "red zone" the engine management will start to "de-fuel" the engine, cutting power."
Duane your comment needs a "but" clause. I run an SCT programmer, which will over ride the manufacturer's shut down programming. Found it out by accident a couple of years ago when the "limp home" light came on, because of a stopped up oil cooler. There was no reduction whatsoever. Fortunately I knew enough to back out of it and didn't suffer any engine damage.
Duane your comment needs a "but" clause. I run an SCT programmer, which will over ride the manufacturer's shut down programming. Found it out by accident a couple of years ago when the "limp home" light came on, because of a stopped up oil cooler. There was no reduction whatsoever. Fortunately I knew enough to back out of it and didn't suffer any engine damage.
porthole
Retired
My comment was geared towards stock trucks for the most part.
"But" as mentioned some programmers will override AND some programmers will still de-fuel when certain parameters are met.
For example, the Banks tuners will de-fuel to prevent engine damage, unless you go through the procedures to add the top level of performance programming. Some programmers require you to input a key response, others require you to purchase the top level.
Similar threads
