External Fans Quit Norcold 2118 Fridge

[travelin2]

This be helpful to some with the RV absorbtion fridge

We lost our cooling fans sometime in the trip across the Midwest. It wasn't apparent until we were enduring the 100 degree heat in Colorado when the fridge temp went up to 60.

After a couple of calls to mobile techs, it became clear I was on my own. So I went to Walmart and bought a small desk fan to put in the bottom of the cavity. That worked well enough to make Montana.

We lost power to the line going to the thermostat therefore the fans. Without physically removing the fridge I'm not sure where the failure occurred.

In the meantime my research brought me to this aftermarket fan assembly. $80

Anyway this repair likely is a darn sight cheaper than a mobile tech.

Just something to pass along

 

[rhodies1]

Is your fridge in a slide with 2 vent access panels. If so.. remove top panel and attached to the top of the fridge condenser is a heat controlled thermostat. It has 2 wires attached. It controls the fans. It’s a possibility that one of the wires came off or the thermostat is bad. For the sake of 15 bucks pick one up at the dealer and install. It is screwed to the condenser fins with 2 small screws ,it works based on heat temps of the fins. The thermostat has a pre set temp of 130 f .

 

[travelin2]

Is your fridge in a slide with 2 vent access panels. If so.. remove top panel and attached to the top of the fridge condenser is a heat controlled thermostat. It has 2 wires attached. It controls the fans. It’s a possibility that one of the wires came off or the thermostat is bad. For the sake of 15 bucks pick one up at the dealer and install. It is screwed to the condenser fins with 2 small screws ,it works based on heat temps of the fins. The thermostat has a pre set temp of 130 f .

Yeah did all that. Not my first rodeo.
No power in the leads to thermostat/fans.
I’m thinking it’s the control board

 

[wdk450]

I believe that the control board has some fuses mounted on it that might be the cause of loss of power to the fans.

BTW, RV Cooling Unit Warehouse online has a big selection of add on fans for both the exterior venting and inside the refrigerator cabinet, besides replacement (better built) cooling units and other stuff for RV refrigerators. Here is a link to the cooling fans section of the website:

RV Cooling Unit Warehouse, LLC Products

Shop our inventory.

rvcoolingunit.com

 

[rhodies1]

The control board has 2 fuses. A 5 am blade fuse which controls your fans and a 3 amp which sends the signal to the controller on the fridge doors. The cover to the control board it held by 3 X 1/4 inch bolts. Take a picture of the wiring on the control board before you remove the cover … the blade fuse is to the right. Remove it and check it for continuity. Check don’t look at it and believe it is ok. Make sure you shut down your shore power and 12 volt before you remove the cover and reach to remove anything from the control board. It’s live.

 

[rhodies1]

I just had to check my control board this week on my Norcold 1210 model. I did replace my cooling unit last year with the Amish model. This was the second unit from JC Refrigeration. First one they shipped was a dud. Never worked from installation date.
I currently have 5 fan’s running in the back of my fridge. 2 original and 3 add ons.
Today my cooling fins in the fridge are reading 19 degrees Fahrenheit and I have the fridge set on 7 because of the warm temps outdoors.

 

[travelin2]

I believe that the control board has some fuses mounted on it that might be the cause of loss of power to the fans.

BTW, RV Cooling Unit Warehouse online has a big selection of add on fans for both the exterior venting and inside the refrigerator cabinet, besides replacement (better built) cooling units and other stuff for RV refrigerators. Here is a link to the cooling fans section of the website:

RV Cooling Unit Warehouse, LLC Products

Shop our inventory.

rvcoolingunit.com

Fuses all good.

 

[travelin2]

The control board has 2 fuses. A 5 am blade fuse which controls your fans and a 3 amp which sends the signal to the controller on the fridge doors. The cover to the control board it held by 3 X 1/4 inch bolts. Take a picture of the wiring on the control board before you remove the cover … the blade fuse is to the right. Remove it and check it for continuity. Check don’t look at it and believe it is ok. Make sure you shut down your shore power and 12 volt before you remove the cover and reach to remove anything from the control board. It’s live.

Fuses good. There are 3 in total
If that 5 amp fuse is blown, nothing works. Been there, I know