fresh tank cracked

[Tweitekamp]

Wow....disheartening when you spend hours removing the underpinning just to find water all over the basement of your RV. I noticed some water coming out from under the rv this weekend. I knew it wasn't going to be fun but I removed all the underpinning and foil insulation just to find the most unimpressive installation of a fresh water tank I have ever seen I am amazed the tank didn't just fall right out! It has 2 straps but they are on the most extreme outside of the tank. There really should be 4 straps spaced evenly to support that much weight in my opinion. But time to find a new tank and modify the mounting system to make it safe for more years to come.

Also found out why the vent tube didn't work. It was routed under the support beam then back above the others! I know it isn't a fun job and things can get pretty tight but it is even worse when it is a field repair and you can't see much of anything! I am hoping that I have enough room to do a correct repair on that too! That is so frustrating having to use a air compressor just to puff some air down the vent just to get the tank to fill! I can only get 1/3 of a tank unless I burp it with my compressor.

I know all rv's are rolling cracker boxes but it was really disheartening to crawl under there and see all of this! Heck, the straps that supposedly support the other 3 tanks are slack by at lease 7-8'! They aren't even touching the tanks!

I am glad that the underpinning is off and I have time to do a proper repair. I am not using it for a month or so. But it just makes me wonder what else could use "a little once over" if you know what I mean!

Any suggestions on how to insulate better underneath since now is the time to do it? Pictures....articles....anything.

Sorry to complain. Just wanted to post what I found and see if people had suggestions for upgrades or better quality repairs.

Todd

 

[brianharrison]

Sorry to hear about your cracked tank.

While I had my choroplast off the underbelly of my Landmark I added a 3/4 plywood sheet between the straps and the fresh water tank to help distribute out the load.

The tanks are designed to "flex" downward and contact the straps when filled to capacity; from my recollection the edges of the tank are in contact all of the time and the upper part of the tank should not move from empty to full and back again. As well, the gray and waste tanks sometimes have "lips" and hang off the edge of the beams. The straps hold the bottoms when full.

I chose to not change the insulation; others may chime in with some of their mods. I am aware of others using the rigid pink insulation board.

Hope this helps.
Brian

 

[TravelTiger]

The straps are to hold the tank as it expands when full. I don't think they are supposed to be snug to it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jnbhobe]

I travel with a full water tank, I have a 1 1/2 in X 3 in tube bolted under the center of the water tank for support. It's not just a Heartland problem I have added support to every rig I have owned.

 

[danemayer]

In some areas, there's enough space for 3/4" foamboard with attic insulation. Cut the 4x8 sheet of foam board to the width between the frame verticals. Tape attic insulation in place on one side of the foam board. Then push one end of the foam board against the frame on one side and flex the board to fit the other side into the frame. No additional support is necessary. All you need is clearance from tanks.

 

[wdk450]

My Bighorn had a 3/4 inch plywood sheet under the tank, but it had gotten a water puddle on top of the wood, and the wood rotted through. As part of my major rear frame I beams bending repair last fall, I got another piece of exterior plywood cut to size, and treated all surfaces with wood sealant, and even drilled a small drain hole in the center of the wood.

 

[brianharrison]

PS. On the 3/4 plywood sheet I sanded off the sharp edges on the side in contact with the plastic fresh water tank. Extra insurance to make sure if either moved during transit, there would be no single sharp contact point to create a future problem.

Brian

 

[Tweitekamp]

Hey guys... Sorry for not getting back. The project got put on hold for a while but I just finished it. I ended up using 3/16x3" and 1/4x3" flat steel to support it again. There is plenty of beef now! We also cut and fixed the non functioning vent and poor vent line from the factory. We made a vent line that goes straight down from the tank with no restrictions. For the first time I can now fill my tank so I am pretty happy about that!

I did snug up the straps that went around the gray and black tanks. You could literally stick your arms through the straps! So they are better. Also put about 50 zip ties to clean and support the wires underneath. What a mess!
I don't like to complain but this shouldn't have happened. You guy's idea of 3/4 treatsd plywood would have been very easy and efficient compared to my metal but oh well.

Going on a trip in 2 weeks so hope everything holds! Just need to repackage my bearings and should be good to go!!happy camping all!!

 

[porthole]

If you checked the vent lines on 50 random rigs, you would probably find some type of issue on all 50 of them.