Grease
- Thread starter chuitt
- Start date
etcmss
Well-known member
I recently did my BH using the EZ Lube zerks and it took 2+ tubes to get grease to ooze out at the cap. It did seem like a lot but I don't believe the inner channel was actually filled.
attached info I found.
- - - Updated - - -
another info on ez lube layout.
attached info I found.
- - - Updated - - -
another info on ez lube layout.
Last edited:
weekender01
Well-known member
Be very careful using those zerk fittings on the E-Z lube axles. I personally would not use them for two reasons:
1. You may blow out your back seals while pumping in the grease. If this happens you will have a huge mess and an even bigger expense on your hands as the brakes will have to be redone. Check out some other forums on these fittings and you will hear stories of that exact issue occuring.
2. Most of the time you will not be able to get all the old grease out by using these. In addition you have no way to inspect your bearings, races, hubs, etc. by doing it this way.
While it is a little more expense I would either repack them by hand myself or have your local service provider repack all of them by hand. This way you will make sure you get them fully regreased and everythng is inspected while not blowing out your back seals. Just my opinion.
1. You may blow out your back seals while pumping in the grease. If this happens you will have a huge mess and an even bigger expense on your hands as the brakes will have to be redone. Check out some other forums on these fittings and you will hear stories of that exact issue occuring.
2. Most of the time you will not be able to get all the old grease out by using these. In addition you have no way to inspect your bearings, races, hubs, etc. by doing it this way.
While it is a little more expense I would either repack them by hand myself or have your local service provider repack all of them by hand. This way you will make sure you get them fully regreased and everythng is inspected while not blowing out your back seals. Just my opinion.
EPaulikonis
Well-known member
I just did my Landmark a few months back. I also used about 1.5 tubes of grease before the old grease began to squeeze out of the hub opening. You keep pumping grease slowly until you get a solid clean color compared to what you put in the gun. Most folks that have issues with blowing the seals use pneumatic guns. I guess it could happen with a manual gun if you're pumping it too quickly. Just take your time and be sure to put in plenty of new grease. I plan to do hand-pack so I can inspect every other year.
I also use a laser, infrared temperature gun to keep track of hub and wheel temps when towing. They're easy to use and fairly inexpensive when you consider the types of issues they'll help you identify before something goes grossly wrong. My wife checks all the tires on the truck and camper and also shoots the hubs at every stop when we exit the vehicle while I'm refueling and performing the other safety checks. You can pick one up at Lowe's, Home Depot, Sears, or the like.
I also use a laser, infrared temperature gun to keep track of hub and wheel temps when towing. They're easy to use and fairly inexpensive when you consider the types of issues they'll help you identify before something goes grossly wrong. My wife checks all the tires on the truck and camper and also shoots the hubs at every stop when we exit the vehicle while I'm refueling and performing the other safety checks. You can pick one up at Lowe's, Home Depot, Sears, or the like.
Bob&Patty
Founders of SoCal Chapter
Eric, I'm sure if you are saying every time you stop for fuel...your DW pumps in more grease on the trailer hubs? Personally I don't think that's a good idea. The hubs can only hold so much grease and normally does not go away unless you have a grease seal leaking. BTW, when you use the zerk fittings...the trailer tire should be off the ground and spun while adding grease. JMHO
EPaulikonis
Well-known member
Guess my message was garbled. Poorly worded "shooting the hubs". I do not add grease at every fuel stop. My DW checks temps on tires and hubs using the temperature gun at every fuel stop. Just more data to understand what's normal on my rig. Possible that understanding the baseline will help me detect potential issues before a catastrophic failure occurs, like a blown bearing or failed tire.
And yes, Bob, you're right. When the time comes to add grease, the tire should be elevated so you can spin it while adding the grease. I add grease every 6 mo. of use, so it's once a year based on the camping season in OH. I do it while winterizing the rig up for the winter.
And yes, Bob, you're right. When the time comes to add grease, the tire should be elevated so you can spin it while adding the grease. I add grease every 6 mo. of use, so it's once a year based on the camping season in OH. I do it while winterizing the rig up for the winter.
According to Dexter, the grease needs to be a NLGI No. 2 rated grease. I ended up using the red tacky #2 on mine. I know one of the engineering guys here at the plant in albion, and he says that the found too much grease also was an issue. They put only a set amount in at the factory when the axles are built.
JanAndBill
Well-known member
Seriously????? To much grease was an issue????? Someone needs to bring Dexter's engineering department up to speed. The EZ-Lube function works by pushing grease from behind the rear bearing, through the rear bearing, through the center hub, and then through the front bearing. Unless the WHOLE HUB is full of grease you won't get any movement out through the front bearing. Guess that explains why when I repacked mine the first time the only grease in the hubs was from the packed bearings. Sounds like another classic case of one hand not knowing what the other is doing!!!!
