Heartland Key Largo 2014 Disc Brakes

[MandA]

I have a 2014 Key Largo. it has hydraulic disc brakes. recently on a trip I lost my trailer brakes. checked fluid and there was non. added fluid and traveled on and still no brakes. next stop to get more fluid. looked under trailer and discovered the steel brake fluid line to the rt rear wheel was broken into.. no place to get replacement so removed broken line and hammered the end closed. refilled fluid and crippled on home on three wheels with brakes. after home replaced broken line and topped off fluid.
I can not find a bleeder on the disc brakes. I have overlooked it or there is none. my question is do these need to be bled like other hydraulic brakes or do they operate otherwise. anyone with experience or a mechanic with info will be appreciated. my next move will be to call dexter for info. thanks in advance.
mike

 

[jbeletti]

Mike - my guess is that you have the Heartland installed disc brakes and those would be Dexter If memory serves, on the bottom of the caliper, there will be a port where you can slip a hose onto in order to collect fluid. Then, somewhere, near the top I think, is a bleed screw. Crack that loose, apply the brakes and pressure will force the air and fluid out.

I had the same thing happen with the same brakes and lines and bled mine twice. I'll try to find some pics for you.

Edit: Here ya go Mike - link

 

[Gary521]

Here is a schematic of a Dexter caliper. It appears that there are two bleeders. One on each side of the caliper at the top. Bleed the outer side first then the inner side. You MUST bleed both sides ( if the schematic is correct ) or you will still have air in the caliper. The brake calipers are like this on one of my cars so I am familiar with this type of caliper. The brake line at the bottom just connects the two sides together.

edit: It could be that one of the upper ports is where the brake line attaches to the caliper- double check.

http://www.dexterpartsonline.com/page/473363581

 

[MandA]

Thanks, I will take a look and see if I can find the bleeder. it will be later today.
mike

 

[porthole]

Whichever type of brake caliper you have, 1, 2 or 4 piston, you may have two bleeders, one on top, one on the bottom.

Top and bottom bleeders are for convenience, they can be mounted on the left or right, or in front of or behind the axle centerline.

Whichever type you have, you are looking for a the bleeder near the top of the caliper. That is the port to use to bleed the brakes.

 

[hoefler]

Only bleed from the TOP bleeder!! DO NOT try to use the bottom one. These calipers are used on both sides, thus flipping them to get proper orientation. Air rises to the top, you will get very little, if any air out of the bottm.

 

[MandA]

Only bleed from the TOP bleeder!! DO NOT try to use the bottom one. These calipers are used on both sides, thus flipping them to get proper orientation. Air rises to the top, you will get very little, if any air out of the bottm.

The axals are 8,000lb they are Dexter have four cylinders with a fluid line across the bottom. there are no bleeders top or bottom that I can find. I have called Dexter and had to leave a message. no call back so far.
mike

 

[MandA]

The axals are 8,000lb they are Dexter have four cylinders with a fluid line across the bottom. there are no bleeders top or bottom that I can find. I have called Dexter and had to leave a message. no call back so far.
mike

Went for another look and with a flashlight thru a hole in the wheel discovered the bleeder on the top of the inside caliper. Removing the wheel will be required to bleed the lines.
Now for a new Question. Is there a way to acuate the electric to hydraulic system with out connecting the truck? This might make bleeding the lines easier. Many thanks to everyone for all the info.
mike

 

[jbeletti]

Mike, you can make up a rig to connect the brake wire to the 12v+ wire. To make it a 1 person operation, you need a few more parts. Check the link in a post I made a few replies ago. That link shows a rig I made. I've used it 3 times.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[hoefler]

Went for another look and with a flashlight thru a hole in the wheel discovered the bleeder on the top of the inside caliper. Removing the wheel will be required to bleed the lines.
Now for a new Question. Is there a way to acuate the electric to hydraulic system with out connecting the truck? This might make bleeding the lines easier. Many thanks to everyone for all the info.
mike

Per the Titan instructions, pull the break away cable.

 

[porthole]

Went for another look and with a flashlight thru a hole in the wheel discovered the bleeder on the top of the inside caliper. Removing the wheel will be required to bleed the lines.
Now for a new Question. Is there a way to actuate the electric to hydraulic system with out connecting the truck? This might make bleeding the lines easier. Many thanks to everyone for all the info.
mike

The easiest way would be something like Jim made up. Simplest and cheapest (aside from having a helper in the truck and the truck connected) would be some hardware store parts.

Enough lamp "zipcord" to go from the pin box to the rear wheels
Two spade connectors
1 'momentary on' switch
Electrical tape.
Inline fuse to add some safety if you are not sure of the wiring.

All of the above are available in the electrical section at either a HD or Lowes.

While you are the hardware store, pick up several feet of clear tubing. 3/16" I think is the size to fit snugly on the bleeder screw. When bleeding put one end on the bleeder and the other end in a clear glass jar. This helps keep the mess to a minimum and allows you see when there are no more air bubbles.

Do not reuse the brake fluid. Once it goes through the system dispose of it.

The above suggestion will allow you by yourself to bleed the brakes.

Keep in mind the bleeder screw is small and has a hole through the center, easy to break off if tightened too much and a real pain to remove once broken off.

I would recommend against pulling the emergency brake pin.
Those switches are cheap and don't last long once subjected to the heat of a hydraulic pump running at max pressure.

Also a good idea to keep a spare switch in your trailer tool bag in case you do accidentally pull the pin and melt the switch.

 

[travelin2]

I had a helper and we used a short piece of copper romex stripped back... one end in the brakes spade the other in the power spade of the trailer's 7 pin plug.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MandA]

This job is finished. jacked up, wheels removed. Helper to acuate brakes from truck. took almost one gallon of brake fluid to bleed all four cylinders.
Want to say thanks to all that offered help here. It is great to have a place to get info. I have used this forum several times with good results. Thanks. again to all.