Help: Intermittent slide & hydraulic jack deployment
- Thread starter 10Ring
- Start date
rdufek
Well-known member
Try using it at -11, moves 3 inches, trips breaker, resets, moves 3 inches, trips breaker. Have a friend who is a familiar with systems and states the down fall of hydraulics systems is they do not like the cold weather at all. They work great in warm weather but hate the cold.
Bob and Valerie
Bob and Valerie
oscar
Well-known member
One other thing like to add is that low voltage adds to the problem. I may even know why...... it takes a certain amount of Watts to do the work..... if there's less volts we draw more amps and things trip. So, I have learned to plug in the electrical FIRST, and unplug it LAST. I see the landing gear/hydraulic slides moving with much more enthusiasm at 13 volts than at 11 (which is what the12V house battery drops to under a load). If that's not an option I run the generator, or keep it plugged into the TV and keep that running until I'm done. I suspect it's a lot less wear and tear on the pumps that way too. No motor likes low voltage, and remember that little house battery is not a whole lot of juice.
Jim.Allison
Well-known member
Lippert says 90% of problems are electrical. They have had fluid viscosity problems in low temp and I have read about draining some OEM fluid and adding a specified fluid to lower the fluid friction in that condition.
The main thing that seems to pop up is a FULLY charged battery.
It is also mentioned that the pump motor is a negative ground system, and hinted that there was NO independent ground wire. This means that they are using the assembly to ground the motor to the chassis. Having read this, I think I'm going to install an independent ground wire from the assembly body to the battery post ground as a mod. Chassis ground systems can sometimes create problems, and a decent gauge ground wire attached to a bolt or a screw on the assembly can facilitate eliminating that problem. DC electricity favors a direct copper wire. My solar/inverter/charger system uses both a chassis ground and a direct connection. A bad ground can also trip that breaker by increasing resistance
I find that sudden onset of a problem is, many times related to recent repair, installation, or modification. Have you done something recently to your rig? And of course recently to a rig might have been a year ago instead of last week.
Here is a link if you have not already found it.
https://lci1.com/assets/content/sup...aulic-slideout-landing-gear-2008-pres-web.pdf
The main thing that seems to pop up is a FULLY charged battery.
It is also mentioned that the pump motor is a negative ground system, and hinted that there was NO independent ground wire. This means that they are using the assembly to ground the motor to the chassis. Having read this, I think I'm going to install an independent ground wire from the assembly body to the battery post ground as a mod. Chassis ground systems can sometimes create problems, and a decent gauge ground wire attached to a bolt or a screw on the assembly can facilitate eliminating that problem. DC electricity favors a direct copper wire. My solar/inverter/charger system uses both a chassis ground and a direct connection. A bad ground can also trip that breaker by increasing resistance
I find that sudden onset of a problem is, many times related to recent repair, installation, or modification. Have you done something recently to your rig? And of course recently to a rig might have been a year ago instead of last week.
Here is a link if you have not already found it.
https://lci1.com/assets/content/sup...aulic-slideout-landing-gear-2008-pres-web.pdf
Last edited:
oscar
Well-known member
That's not a bad idea for ANY high draw component.
