Hitch height ?

MP_CS

Well-known member
Hey everyone I have a question regarding my fifth wheel hitch hieght. I towed the 5er all last year, trailer level without timbrens installed... I just installed timbrens in the rear to try and reduce some of the sagging and now appropriately the 5er is about 1.5-2" out of level... I have about 8.5" of clearance between the bedrails and trailer.. Is it ok to be out of level that far or should i give up some of the bedrail distance by dropping the hitch to a lower setting... Thanks
 

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
I'm no expert, but level is better I would think. Out of level causes more wear on the trailer's rear axle and tires.


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danemayer

Well-known member
If the trailer is off-level, I think you're transferring weight between the axles. Depending on how much margin you have, and how far off-level, you could exceed the axle, wheel, or tire load capacity.
 

avvidclif

Well-known member
I'm running abt 6" clearance and haven't had a problem. I think most recommend around 6", no less though.
 

MP_CS

Well-known member
I should be able to drop the hitch one set of holes and still keep around 7" or so of bedrail clearance, that shouldd get me almost level.. I cant tell for sure until i get it out somewhere thats level..
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
Hitch height ???

I was going to start a new thread, but saw this so thought I'd ask here.

On our way to the Vegas Rally I noticed that the rear axle tires on the Prowler were wearing badly on the inside tread, front axle no problem.

After the Dexter seminar at the Rally, Glen from Dexter came over to our site and had a look and said that the rear axle had lost it's camber (ie.- no longer curved in the middle, but flat), which is why the tires are worn on the inside tread.

Click images to enlarge

ProwlerRearAxleFlat-IMAG0323.jpg

He suggested that we reverse the tires on those wheels to get home (which we did in Utah), and possible causes would be overloading (the usual first response) which we did not do, and also towing with the front of the trailer too high, and last but not least, the axle might be defective.

He did also say that you never know how it was handled (towed) by the delivery driver from the factory . . .

I showed him photos of the truck and trailer hitched up (same photo as in my sig below), and he said that it looks a little high in the front, which is how the dealer installed the hitch.

This shot the Prowler was loaded as we had just arrived at Blue Mesa and was our third campout in the two months since we purchased the trailer . . .

ProwlerBlueMesa-P1000480.jpg

When we got home and unloaded the fridge and some other stuff, as I was getting ready to unhitch I remembered to measure the front and back of the trailer to the ground, so I drove around the corner to a Kohl's parking lot (nice and level) and took this photo and then measured (wish I would have remembered to measure before I drained the fresh water and hot water tanks, plus I had an almost empty tank of gas in the truck):

ProwlerMeasure-P1020514.jpg

So when I measured from the corners of the frame to the ground, the front of the trailer is 4 1/2 inches higher in the front.

On my Reese slider hitch, these adjustment holes from center to center of the hole are 1 1/2 inches apart:

ReeseHitchAdjHoles-P1020521.jpg

So my question is this . . .

Which hole should I use to adjust the hitch?

I'm thinking that if I go all the way to the top it will be too far and may not give me enough clearance between the trailer and the bed rails, not to mention might be to low on the front of the trailer.
 

justafordguy

Well-known member
I agree John, I would try the middle holes first and hopefully that will get you level enough without getting to close between the bed rail and camper.

Also, did Dexter say there was any way to have that axle re-curved?
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
I agree John, I would try the middle holes first and hopefully that will get you level enough without getting to close between the bed rail and camper.

Also, did Dexter say there was any way to have that axle re-curved?

He did say I might be able to have it bent back in to shape by an axle shop.

Also, it is possible to replace the rod of the axle and use the existing brake assembly and spindles, and lastly to replace the whole axle.

I am going to stop at the shop later today that did the axle replacement on our previous Trail Runner to see what his take is on this.

Of course, now I need to buy new tires all over again.

No more ST's for me . . . looking at going to a good 15-inch truck tire.
 
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