Hot water bypass
- Thread starter djlogan
- Start date
branson4020
Icantre Member
Re: ATF: Bighorn - Hot water bypass
Probably the check valve is bad. Seems to be a common problem. The valve is on the hot water outlet on the back of the water heater.
Probably the check valve is bad. Seems to be a common problem. The valve is on the hot water outlet on the back of the water heater.
Big Al and Donna
HOC 1218
Re: ATF: Bighorn - Hot water bypass
Call Ed and have him come over. He just did his. If it is a bad valve, he can help you fix it.
Call Ed and have him come over. He just did his. If it is a bad valve, he can help you fix it.
linuxkidd
Member
Re: ATF: Bighorn - Hot water bypass
The winterization process should go something like this...
* Turn off pump / unhook city water
* Turn off Hot Water Heater and allow PLENTY of time for the water inside to cool
* Remove Sacrificial anode rod from Hot Water heater and lift the Overpressure/Over temperature Relief valve and allow to completely drain.
* Replace Anode Rod into Hot Water Heater and close Overpressure/Over temperature Relief valve
* Place Bypass control to 'Bypassed' setting
* Place pump inlet setting to Anti-Freeze setting ( wording is likely different, going from memory )
* Place Anti-Freeze tube into bottle of RV Anti-Freeze
* Turn on Pump
* Repeat at each faucet:
- Turn on Cold water until Anti-Freeze is present
- Turn off Cold water
- Turn on Hot water until Anti-Freeze is present
- Turn off Hot water
- Ensure that enough water has run to displace the water in the Trap which is in the drain of the sink/shower that you're winterizing.
* Make sure not to forget any Outside faucet/shower in the above process!
* Flush Toilet until Anti-Freeze is present
* Allow a bit of Anti-Freeze to remain in Toilet bowl
* Turn off Pump
* Remove Anti-Freeze inlet tube from Anti-Freeze bottle.
* If equipped with Low Point Drains, continue below:
- Place capture pan/bottle under Cold Water Low Point Drain
- Open Cold Water Low point Drain
- Open faucet at highest point in the RV for the Cold water
- Once Anti-Freeze stops flowing, Close Low Point Drain and Faucet
- Repeat for Hot Water Low point Drain.
The key part above is that the Water Heater should be re-sealed after draining before pumping Anti-freeze through the system. Since the Water Heater inlet is not sealed off by the bypass, leaving the Water Heater un-sealed would allow the anti-freeze to simply run out the Water Heater instead of being pumped through the system.
Hope this helps!
LK
Disclaimer: I've never winterized my rig since I full time in it. I'm sure someone will scrutinize the listing above to ensure correctness.
The winterization process should go something like this...
* Turn off pump / unhook city water
* Turn off Hot Water Heater and allow PLENTY of time for the water inside to cool
* Remove Sacrificial anode rod from Hot Water heater and lift the Overpressure/Over temperature Relief valve and allow to completely drain.
* Replace Anode Rod into Hot Water Heater and close Overpressure/Over temperature Relief valve
* Place Bypass control to 'Bypassed' setting
* Place pump inlet setting to Anti-Freeze setting ( wording is likely different, going from memory )
* Place Anti-Freeze tube into bottle of RV Anti-Freeze
* Turn on Pump
* Repeat at each faucet:
- Turn on Cold water until Anti-Freeze is present
- Turn off Cold water
- Turn on Hot water until Anti-Freeze is present
- Turn off Hot water
- Ensure that enough water has run to displace the water in the Trap which is in the drain of the sink/shower that you're winterizing.
* Make sure not to forget any Outside faucet/shower in the above process!
* Flush Toilet until Anti-Freeze is present
* Allow a bit of Anti-Freeze to remain in Toilet bowl
* Turn off Pump
* Remove Anti-Freeze inlet tube from Anti-Freeze bottle.
* If equipped with Low Point Drains, continue below:
- Place capture pan/bottle under Cold Water Low Point Drain
- Open Cold Water Low point Drain
- Open faucet at highest point in the RV for the Cold water
- Once Anti-Freeze stops flowing, Close Low Point Drain and Faucet
- Repeat for Hot Water Low point Drain.
The key part above is that the Water Heater should be re-sealed after draining before pumping Anti-freeze through the system. Since the Water Heater inlet is not sealed off by the bypass, leaving the Water Heater un-sealed would allow the anti-freeze to simply run out the Water Heater instead of being pumped through the system.
Hope this helps!
LK
Disclaimer: I've never winterized my rig since I full time in it. I'm sure someone will scrutinize the listing above to ensure correctness.
K
karykatz
Guest
Re: ATF: Bighorn - Hot water bypass
djlogan,
See below this is from our head of production. I hope this helps.
Easy way to check. With water heater drain open, valve in bypass mode. Disconnect cold from bottom of water heater
. Turn on water. If water enters water heater from the hot side, check valve is bad. If water comes out of disconnected cold line, bypass is pumbed wrong.
djlogan,
See below this is from our head of production. I hope this helps.
Easy way to check. With water heater drain open, valve in bypass mode. Disconnect cold from bottom of water heater
. Turn on water. If water enters water heater from the hot side, check valve is bad. If water comes out of disconnected cold line, bypass is pumbed wrong.
westxsrt10
Perfict Senior Member
Re: ATF: Bighorn - Hot water bypass
Shut the 2 valves off at the inlet and outlet (nearest the tank). Then open the valve that ties the two lines together right before the tank. (bypass valve).
Shut the 2 valves off at the inlet and outlet (nearest the tank). Then open the valve that ties the two lines together right before the tank. (bypass valve).
Re: ATF: Bighorn - Hot water bypass
LK is not quite right. You do not need to seal off the heater with the anode rod after bypassing it. The winterizing valve closes off the water supply into the heater and diverts water into the hot water lines. A check valve on the outlet of the heater stops anti-freeze from getting back into the heater from the hot water lines. However, this check valve sometimes passes. A new check valve is recommended, and if you have a plastic valve, I recommend to upgrade to a metal one. If you put the anode back in, you will pressurize the air in the heater tank and this will eventually stop flow into it. However, by that time, you'll probably have a couple of gallons of anti-freeze in the tank.
LK is not quite right. You do not need to seal off the heater with the anode rod after bypassing it. The winterizing valve closes off the water supply into the heater and diverts water into the hot water lines. A check valve on the outlet of the heater stops anti-freeze from getting back into the heater from the hot water lines. However, this check valve sometimes passes. A new check valve is recommended, and if you have a plastic valve, I recommend to upgrade to a metal one. If you put the anode back in, you will pressurize the air in the heater tank and this will eventually stop flow into it. However, by that time, you'll probably have a couple of gallons of anti-freeze in the tank.
2010augusta
Well-known member
Re: ATF: Bighorn - Hot water bypass
Factory has answered the question, so I have moved the thread to the plumbing section.
Factory has answered the question, so I have moved the thread to the plumbing section.
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