There are only two things to take in consideration when purchasing this option.
- The first is that towards the back of the unit the level up rear hydraulic jacks do hang down slightly below the frame. It is not low enough to cause any concern for most people, the only exception would be for some customers that take there toy haulers into extreme off road conditions where there is a lot of un-even terrain.
- The other concern is that, when the unit is in the "leveled up" position it raises the unit higher than the standard set up. The higher the unit sits up the greater the approach angle becomes on the ramp door when you load your toys in the rear.
Since the original post is in the Cyclone forum AJ brought up these two points.
But - not just for toy haulers, the comment about raising the trailer extra high using the LevelUp jacks.
The trial Air LevelUp exaggerates the height when doing it's self level. And at times the trailer can be too high. "Think" the trailer parked sideways on an incline and the DS is facing downhill. Mike and Ann had this last year in PA. The simple fix in their case would have been to just turn around and run longer hoses.
You do not have to use the auto feature to level the trailer.
Level the front as you would any trailer without level up.
Drop all the rear jacks to the ground and just let them touch. Give them enough extension to just move the trailer a fraction. Now you have taken most of the weight off the springs. Want it level - use the manual control and level as needed moving only one side.
Doing it this way keeps the trailer as low to the ground as possible and is no different in height ramp angles then when using boards or blocks to level one side.
And for toy haulers with all the fancy hydraulics, before leveling use the front jacks to raise the trailer well above level. This make s for a less steep ramp. This is especially useful on the 3010 series with the 7 foot door (8' door on the full size TH's)