I am SO Confused... Looking to haul a BH3670 but the numbers don't look right

[JohnDar]

Without adding water to the tanks, you can easily guesstimate that with clothing, food, tools, chairs, bedding and "stuff," that you'll add 2000 lbs. to the "dry" weight of the trailer. Any things you have added after the factory, like a W/D, vacuum cleaner, generator, or slide toppers, will not be reflected on the dry weight sticker, which is supposed to be accurate at the factory. Even something like replacing the OEM electric jacks with a set of four RT Ground Control jacks will add considerable weight. Those four electric motors and jacks are substantial pieces of equipment.

 

[PteJack]

Thanks guys,

I am well aware that the empty tolet paper roll that fell behind the sink adds weight, but one has to start somewhere, right? Factory Dry and pins weight are all you get from a dealership or RV manufacturer.

It is the excellent information being received from you guy spurting out TV combinations and true scale weights that are indications of where the unit weights go. Stupid questions like mine spur rebutal and more information comes out which allows newbies like me to make informed and common sense type decisions.

In the end the ultimate decision whether to throw caution, lock on and travel in what could be an overloaded/unsafe state or to rethink models and find a more suitable trailer rests with me. In a case where the margins are so close to borderline, I think I have to err on the side of caution. Although not my first RV, it would be my first haul unit and I feel that it may be just a tad to heavy.

I've done the white knuckle ride in my motorhome coming across Montana on the 90, where I guy who WAS going to pass me fell back almost half a K behind me. I got to talk to him at the next rest stop, told him that I was trying to get over to let him by before he fell back and ask him why he didn't go around me.
His answer was, "yea, I was going to go around you, but when you started pulling that 2 wheel shEEt, I decided to stay away from you."

Anyway, decision is made to keep looking for now.

Thanks to everyone who participated. As disappointed as I am, feel I have made a well informed choice, all because of the input you guys provided. Maybe if I find a unit and get some experience hauling I be back here inviting you all to a BBQ hosted at my new 3670.

I envy you all...

Pte Jack

 

[JohnDar]

Brad,
The 2009 catalog I have lists the BH3670 as 11820 dry weight, with a 2065 pin weight. The GVWR for the rig is 16000 lbs. Unlike newer models, it should have G-rated (not E-rated) tires on it, as well, unless the previous owner changed them. The 2010 (2011?) catalog has the dry weight at 12161 lbs. The current HL website catalog shows the dry weight as 12406, but has dropped the GVWR to 15500 lbs. Probably due to dropping down to the E-rated tires.

 

[PteJack]

For those of you who are pulling this unit on a 2011 Dodge 2500/3500, I am attaching the 2011 manufacturer's specs. I could not post them earlier as being a newbie to the forum, attachments were not available.

If the attachment is not available to you, it means the upload has not been used within an hour of being posted and has been deleted. Be warned, even though these are specs from the factory, ALWAYS CHECK WHAT IS STICKERED TO THE INSIDE OF THE DRIVER'S DOOR. For example according to the spec sheet, my GAWR Rear is suppose to be 6500, in fact the sticker only reads 6200.

None the less, this is a snippet of the last pm I received on this topic. I now truly believe I have made the right decision.

"I guess I'm another one of those "you've got to be kidding" guys. I found specs for your truck online and couldn't believe how low they are. So much for "Ram Tough." Even the dually version wouldn't get you near a Bighorn, much less the 3670."

I guess if you read between the lines what he's trying to say here with "Ram Tough" actually means "RAM??... Tough, eh?" in Canadian... lol.

I encourage people who read threads like this to leave constructive comments, they help people like me make informed decisions for their problems. Who better to ask than those who own, been there and done that. You never know, it might be you looking for an answer one day.

Rant of the day...
One piece of advise for those looking for a 3500 vehicle to haul heavy weight. Thoroughly read the specs of the truck you intend to buy, don't listen to hype on what a lesser model will do from your sales rep unless he has personally been raised on a farm and hauled livestock.
Your Sales reps assurances do not enhance or improve the manufacturers set restrictions. Insist on minium 4.10 Diff and don't buckle from that. Then go with a single cab, long box, dually, 2x4, no extras. It's the one that's advertised on TV as having the best tow capability. (Check the specs)

Rant of the past week
Even though I love my truck, through the research I've done, I feel like I've bought a glorified 1500 (as far as restrictions go).

I am sure some of you are shaking your heads and are saying IDIOT!! Lock on and go!!! I can say this to you, as a warranty manager for many years, if your vehicle is under warranty and I can prove neglect (being just one of the restrictions mentioned in this thread exceeded caused the failure), I can legally say you have no warranty. Else, if you have insurance (and I hope you do), have an accident and neglect can be proven (any of the same restrictions exceeded), you will most likely not have insurance cover any of the damage/injury or loss of life.

For those who wish to see what Dodge drivers say on this topic here is a link to the topic in Dodgeforumz http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?p=800005#post800005

Again, thanks to everyone who responded to the thread.

Sincerely,

Pte Jack