Issue with swinging bedroom door

[2010augusta]

Our Augusta has the wood and glass door into the bedroom, but the "stud" that is supporting the side of the door with the hinges is starting to pull away from the side wall of the trailer. I can push it back towards the wall about 3/8 of an inch. I am thinking about adding a brace in the top corner so it would tie into the ceiling and would stop the sagging door. Anyone have a better idea for a fix?

 

[pigpen1491]

I would check with heartland, it might be warrenty, or they will know fix

 

[Boca_Shuffles]

Since you have a big gap at the top of the door, you could put in a stained sill that goes all the way across the top. If you cut it accurately, you would only need minor screw/brads to keep it in place.

 

[caissiel]

Its a shame we have to rebuild a completly new trailer, I have had many instances of repairs. Its just fustrating that the little things are in need of attention. Mine has been a complete lemon so far.

 

[2010augusta]

Since you have a big gap at the top of the door, you could put in a stained sill that goes all the way across the top. If you cut it accurately, you would only need minor screw/brads to keep it in place.

Good idea, but I'm 6'4" and that "header" could be a real headache, but I could learn to duck there too.

 

[caissiel]

I removed the door of my W/D closet and had to install it again. There is a piece of wood behind the door frame that longer screws should be able to reach in the the wall frame member. If there is no frame member behind the door frame you might need to install one. If the frame moves then it needs to be supported with more fasteners. I just reinstalled my door frame with my finishing nail gun and screwed the hinges on the door frame and wall frame member.

 

[Arkansas1]

Alan,
My 2009 Augusta did not come with the door but it has one now, I went to lowes and found some plastic anchors that screw in not the one that are driven in, these are found in the area that mounting hardware is, like for pictures and such, you first drill a small starter hole then insert the anchor and screw it in with a phillips screw driver till it comes flush with the wall .
Mine has been up for over a year and several miles and not one problem as of yet , they come in packages of 5 or 6. I thing once you use these little life savers your problems will be fixed.
Good luck,
Mike

 

[rick_debbie_gallant]

Just use a 5 inch barn spike. Might want to pre-drill the hole so you dont split the wood. Check with the factory and see what they may suggest or tell you how they are put together.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Alan, my thought was to remove the trim and a bazillion brad nails. There should be a 2"X2" wood support at the corner. A tube of construction adhesive and some longer brad nails should hold nice and firm from then on. Bob

 

[JohnDar]

Alan, my thought was to remove the trim and a bazillion brad nails. There should be a 2"X2" wood support at the corner. A tube of construction adhesive and some longer brad nails should hold nice and firm from then on. Bob

Personally, if I were doing it, I'd use countersunk wood screws rather than long brads. Better hold and they'll pull the surfaces in tighter than a brad nailer will. And you won't need a magazine full of them to attach it.