wdk450
Well-known member
Gang:
Over my 4 years of ownership, I have fought this problem on most every trip. More, now that I am keeping more foodstuffs in the trailer. I have mainly had the problem with the big drawer under my double refrigerator and with the storage drawer under the sofa/airbed. The Heartland crew even worked on the sofa at the Gillette national rally as one of my free service items, installed 2 new latches (originally it only had 1), but it started coming open on the road again. I have tried some of the childproofing plastic springy latches, but they were not strong enough, even with epoxy re-enforcement. I looked through all of the RV hardware and childproofing drawer/cabinet devices I could find online. Last trip I stretched bungy cords from one end fascia of the refrigerator/stove slide, through the drawer handles to the fascia at the other end of the slide. That worked but is cumbersome. What I just needed was a stronger version of the plastic childproofing latch. This is the type of latch where the drawer opens about an inch, you reach in the opened gap, depress the spring-loaded latch, and the drawer can now be fully opened. Well, a lightbulb lit up above my head, and I thought of a way to do this simply and inexpensively.
Parts List for each latch (Most of these parts are sold in multiple units. I got them all at Home Depot):
(Parts price is about $3 per latch)
1 3 inch strap hinge
1 1/4 inch X 1 inch .035 inch compression spring (this will be cut in 1/2)
1 6-32 X 2 inch machine screw
2 6-32 Nuts
Here is a picture of the parts:
Here is a strap hinge as bought, and as bent (measurements not critical) for the latch:
Here is the finished product:
O.K. A 3/16 inch hole was drilled in the top strap at a point directly above the end hole in the bottom strap. From the bottom strap end hole, from the bottom up, the 3/16 inch screw is placed with a nut on the top side of that bottom strap. The compression spring is cut in half with side cutters. Over the screw shaft the (now) 1/4 inch by 1/2 inch spring is placed. The end of the screw is guided through the hole drilled in the top strap, and the other nut is screwed to the top of the screw. Adjust the top nut until the top strap makes a right angle with the bottom strap. Cut off the excess screw body with side cutters. Secure the top nut with Locktite or super glue.
Here is a photo of the latch as it is to be used (it is just propped in place in this picture):
Again, you push down on the top of the latch to get the latch to clear the drawer top frame, then pull the drawer open.
Over my 4 years of ownership, I have fought this problem on most every trip. More, now that I am keeping more foodstuffs in the trailer. I have mainly had the problem with the big drawer under my double refrigerator and with the storage drawer under the sofa/airbed. The Heartland crew even worked on the sofa at the Gillette national rally as one of my free service items, installed 2 new latches (originally it only had 1), but it started coming open on the road again. I have tried some of the childproofing plastic springy latches, but they were not strong enough, even with epoxy re-enforcement. I looked through all of the RV hardware and childproofing drawer/cabinet devices I could find online. Last trip I stretched bungy cords from one end fascia of the refrigerator/stove slide, through the drawer handles to the fascia at the other end of the slide. That worked but is cumbersome. What I just needed was a stronger version of the plastic childproofing latch. This is the type of latch where the drawer opens about an inch, you reach in the opened gap, depress the spring-loaded latch, and the drawer can now be fully opened. Well, a lightbulb lit up above my head, and I thought of a way to do this simply and inexpensively.
Parts List for each latch (Most of these parts are sold in multiple units. I got them all at Home Depot):
(Parts price is about $3 per latch)
1 3 inch strap hinge
1 1/4 inch X 1 inch .035 inch compression spring (this will be cut in 1/2)
1 6-32 X 2 inch machine screw
2 6-32 Nuts
Here is a picture of the parts:
Here is a strap hinge as bought, and as bent (measurements not critical) for the latch:
Here is the finished product:
O.K. A 3/16 inch hole was drilled in the top strap at a point directly above the end hole in the bottom strap. From the bottom strap end hole, from the bottom up, the 3/16 inch screw is placed with a nut on the top side of that bottom strap. The compression spring is cut in half with side cutters. Over the screw shaft the (now) 1/4 inch by 1/2 inch spring is placed. The end of the screw is guided through the hole drilled in the top strap, and the other nut is screwed to the top of the screw. Adjust the top nut until the top strap makes a right angle with the bottom strap. Cut off the excess screw body with side cutters. Secure the top nut with Locktite or super glue.
Here is a photo of the latch as it is to be used (it is just propped in place in this picture):
Again, you push down on the top of the latch to get the latch to clear the drawer top frame, then pull the drawer open.
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