landing gear and slide problem

[tooldtoboat]

I bought a 2011 RW305 last fall used from a dealer. It is not warranted so no use going back to them.
I notice the hydraulic landing gear in front and also the hydraulic slides both act odd. When I push the button on either they work but stop after a moment of
operation and then start again after a moment or two, then start and top. I first noticed it on the landing gear but now see it in the slides too. I am thinking the fluid is low. It takes about 3 or 4 stop-starts to complete a cycle whether going in or out or up of down.
I looked at the hydraulic fluid {white plastic tank} in the front and it is a little less than half full. The tank is translucent.There is no line showing where the level should be.

I have had this problem when plugged into shore power as well as when hooked to just battery, so I am thinking it is not a power loss. I can't imagine both switches are failing. Does anyone here have an idea what is going on here?

thanks,
Leigh

 

[Jimmy]

If your Hydraulic motor is stopping, it is most likely your 12 volt Breaker which you need to increase in size and or replace... Just a thought.

 

[tooldtoboat]

Thank you for the feed back. Is this a thermal trip that is resetting itself? Where is it located? Is this below the dash with all the other circuits?
The time between stop and start varies but is not more than 3 to 5 seconds. It seems like a thermal would create a longer break.
thanks
Leigh

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Leigh, the breaker should be in a short row or buss bar in the front compartment on the rear wall. Not too sure about this because they may be in a different location based on your rig's battery location. The breakers/buss bar is covered with red insulating rubber thingys. If it's an auot reset thermal, you will have to determine which one goes to the hydraulic pump and motor.
While you're at it, check for any loose connections at the breakers or switches. That would cause heat which can cause the same issue.

 

[TXBobcat]

The breakers are shown by the arrow in this photo...

There a number of threads discussing this and it comes down to getting a better rated breaker. I don't know what the amperage you have but it needs to be replaced or increased in size.




BC

 

[danemayer]

Sometimes the breakers just get weak and need to be replaced.

If there's a mechanical bind, that can cause the pump to trip the breaker. Or if your battery voltage is a bit low, the amperage pulled by the pump will increase, making it easier to trip the breaker. A new 50 amp auto-reset breaker coast about $10 at auto parts or marine stores.

If you're on the original battery that came with the trailer, a new breaker might resolve the problem for a while, but it could come back.

In the manuals section of the forum, we have an owner-written 12V Block Diagram and Diagnostics guide that has some additional explanation, along with pictures and more.

 

[tooldtoboat]

Problem solved!
I re-routed installing a new single 40 amp breaker which was what it originally had and ran direct with a cable direct to the battery. the problem went away. I also bought a 50 amp and will carry it as a spare just in case the 40 amp starts to act up.
The Lipert Tech suggested re-routing and not going with the common bus as it robs voltage. It now works as it should. It does have a new battery and was fully charged when this was problem was occurring. There seems to be no bind in the motor as well. this is in response to some of the responses from the forum. Lipert tech said once the breaker starts tripping it gets weaker and then is prone to tripping more and more which is what I was seeing. I think the previous battery made the breaker weaken.
Thanks for all the help. Happy camping!
Leigh