I recently had a leaf spring break on my 2008 Big Horn 5th wheel, the front one on the passenger side. Only way I knew it broke was that I saw smoke coming out the back as I tooled down the freeway. Fortunately I was able to get a roadside assistant who was able to find a replacement, and the wife and I were back on the road several hours later. One tire ruined, since it rubbed up against the frame, tearing a strip of rubber off as well. Since then, I've check the tire clearance on the drivers side and, low and behold, there's less than 1" clearance to the frame, and I can see where the frame is polished where the tire has been rubbing - probably when going over rough roads. That spring appears to be "stretched" flat, compared to the new spring on the other side, which has an ark to it. Question: do leaf springs eventually weaken under load? I plan to order a new one from Lippert next week, since I don't feel comfortable running down the road with such little clearance from the top of the tire to the frame. The GVWR of my rig is 14,600. I have a measured 11,220 lbs on the 2 axles and a pin weight of 3,300lbs on my Ford 350 SuperDuty. All comments would be apreciated. Has anyone else had experience with "sagging" leaf springs??
Leaf spring fatigue?
- Thread starter JimHamlin
- Start date
The 2008 Bighorns (at least the 3670's) seem to have had a lot of problems with frame/suspension related items. I have experienced many of them. Broke the tear drivers side 300 miles from home at the end of our trip down south. The two year trip where the camper spent 15 months getting fixed.
It was/is built too heavy for the frame and lift systems.
We love the layout, and systems work well, just aftaid to haul it too far any more because I 'm worried it will break.
Short story is the landingvgears collapsed, dropped the front, and the jarring broke the overhand support beam(s) and all framing welds for the front 15 feet. They had to peel skin back, take out bedroom slide and redo everything......twice. first time in Tacoma Washington. Second time in Witchita Kansas. The Wichita folks were much more competent, and to keep it from flexing and doing it again ended up boxing in the front frame and beefing things up substantially.
Thanx guys, for your comments. I noticed several posts regarding poor leaf-spring durability in 2008 & 2009 models. I already had the broken one replaced, and think I'll order the remaining 3, but maybe with an additional 200-500lb capacity, and definitely not of Chinese make - will depend on recommendations from a local spring manufacturer. It's enough to worry about your tires while underway, let alone the suspension as well!
JohnD
Moved on to the next thing...
If you go to a heavier duty spring than the new one you just had put on, then you should replace that new one with the same ones you are putting on the other wheels.
Our previous 2013 Heartland Trail Runner had flat springs when we bought it brand new in September of 2012, but I didn't realize this as I didn't know any better.
Until two years later while down in Arizona and the trailer started bottoming out on the tires.
It always sat kind of low and I thought that was the way it was supposed to be, until I parked right next to one just like ours and it sat a good five inches higher in the air than ours ever did.
Before and after the axles and springs were upgraded to the next size up:
Flat springs both sides:
Damage from the tires rubbing on the bottom of the trailer and the slide out:
We traded off the Trail Runner for our current Prowler a week after getting this all fixed.
Here is the Trail Runner the day we bought it and the day we traded it in:
olcoon
Well-known member
Dave,
John has several streets named after him all over the US. Just saw a couple of them today...One Way, and Dead End!
John, if you want to redeem yourself, and deliver some here to KC, I'll take you out for some Kansas City BBQ!!!
Jim. the spring pack has a little stud on the bottom that sits in a hole on the axle mount. It does move, but very little.
And if the tires are wearing evenly, it ain't broke so don't fix it.
The best thing is to get it into a big rig axle/alignment shop.
Peace
Dave
Thanx Dave, I was wondering about that. Will look into a reliable alignment shop.
Guess the question is - does it dog track - I think that is the correct term. Even though the tires are wearing well the axles could be off evenly allowing the coach to go down the road with the tail end either to the left or right of the front. You have probably seen a few semi trailers doing this over the years. Had this on my SOB and the alignment shop fixed it right up.
Apropdoc
Utah Chapter Leaders-retired
If you are replacing the springs, may I suggest the Correct Trac system...it allows the shop to align the axles to the hitch point for a true tracking of the trailer. Also, springs must be replaced in pairs, so if you only replaced a left front spring, you need to do the same on the opposite side of the axle with identical spring. ESCO in OK is a great manufacturer of springs.
danemayer
Well-known member
Lippert's Correct Track was invented to correct simple alignment issues where the axles are not tracking parallel to one another and square to the pinbox. The primary issue was described as being caused by weight differences from side-to-side spreading the springs differently side-to-side, causing axle displacement. Some people believe that it was invented to correct alignment problems caused by Lippert welding the hangars in the wrong place, but that seems unlikely to me.
There are 2 versions of Correct Track. The OEM version is welded to the frame. The Correct Track II (aftermarket) version is bolted to the existing hangars and raises the coach about 2".
So if you find your axles aren't tracking correctly, the aftermarket version might help. But, before you go there, you might want to investigate whether there's any service center near you that has the laser alignment kit, and if not, whether you feel confident proceeding without it.
When taking measurements, you'll want to pull straight ahead and back up straight back a couple of times to make sure the axles and suspension are in a normal position.
Finally, by adding 2" to the height of the coach, you're moving the center of gravity up which can affect stability in crosswinds or emergency situations. Also, it may put more leverage on the frame in high stress turns. It might be worth considering having a brace welded in to prevent twisting of the frame.
