Leaking water heater bypass valve

[Falvey2730]

Is there a way to bypass a leaking hot water heater bypass valve (The valve used for winterizing)? We can't get a part for a week and can't use our water at all. Anyone know of a way to bypass it?

 

[cookie]

Hello Falvey2730. welcome to this great forum.
What rig do you have? It would be helpful in determining what valve you are talking about.
You might be able to get the leak stopped with some parts from a plumbing store or big box home center.

Peace
Dave

 

[Falvey2730]

Hello Falvey2730. welcome to this great forum.
What rig do you have? It would be helpful in determining what valve you are talking about.
You might be able to get the leak stopped with some parts from a plumbing store or big box home center.

Peace
Dave

We have a 2014 Big Country 3070re

 

[sengli]

The plastic by pass valve in mine had a small hair line crack in it, it too leaked very slowly. When I finally found the source of the leak, I had to replace it myself. I had to order one thru heartland parts to replace mine too. The way its plumbed into the system, I wouldnt think there is anyway to easily get around it till your replacement arrives. When it does your going to need a pex tool and some fittings to replace it.

 

[TedS]

Maybe wrap it with the self-sealing tape. Safety or emergency tape or called something like that.

On edit: rescue tape

 

[fastcarsspeed]

If it is PEX tubing get yourself some gator bites or a gatorbite valve and it should be an easy fix. Hard to know without photos but I would l think you should be able to come up with something.

 

[danemayer]

To take the bypass out of the loop temporarily, I think you'll need to join 2 of the 3 lines and cap the 3rd. If you use Sharkbite type press-on fittings, using their tool, you should be able to remove the new fittings when you get the new valve assembly.

One potential problem is that if you have braided line to the bypass valve, press-on fittings may need plastic inserts to add support to the walls of the tubing. If PEX, it'll be easier.

When you cut the current tubing, stay close to the valve so you don't have a fit problem attaching to the new valve assembly.

To figure out which 2 to join, you'll need to trace the plumbing from the city water inlet to the valve, and from the valve to the water heater cold input fitting.

 

[eddylives]

If it is PEX tubing get yourself some gator bites or a gatorbite valve and it should be an easy fix. Hard to know without photos but I would l think you should be able to come up with something.

I had a similar issue with our trail runner a couple seasons back
I just eliminated the cheap plastic valves with shark bite fittings for pex tubing
A little pricey but well worth it.

 

[Domi]

You could get some JB wet weld (or water weld) and put in on the valve. Since you are replacing it anyway it will not matter that it sticks to it permanantly.

I have used it on my fresh water tank for a permanant fix and it worked very well. You can out it on a leaking pipe and it is supposed to seal. Mine was dry but it worked well.

I usually get it at Wal-Mart in the Hardware section but other places might carry it.

Good luck,

John