Let's talk blocks, chocks, leveling and stability

[ericandalice]

I did a search on the forums for things like leveling, levelers, chocks, etc and I read all the way back to 2007. In addition, I sought out videos on YouTube and have looked at all the rigs in campgrounds we've visited.

Here's the problem: our rig is new so it has the 6point hydraulics on it. It seems like everything I see and read is for rigs that do not have this. They also have electronic rear jacks, which we do not have.

The second problem is I don't think I have my terminology correct. And when I start to read the manuals and written advice, my eyes glaze over at all the warnings (and lack of pictures, lol)

I call all of the shiny silver hydraulic things 'legs' and the round discs on the bottom 'feet.' But I think the technical term for the front two legs is landing gear. And the back four would be what? Stabilizers?

I don't understand how the tires come into play when we're leveling the rig. Yes, I know we have auto leveling, but frankly, after that misshap in the mountains (my arrivals post) I don't trust the auto level feature on anything but level ground.

So:
1. Should the tires be gently touching the ground once we're stopped and leveled?
2. Since we have the 6point system, do I new to do any pre leveling (side to side) via boards under the tires prior to hitting the leveling/landing gear button?

As an aside, we have 4 yellow chocks that I put in as soon as we are stopped in our spot. Yesterday we bought the X shaped/scissor chocks from Bal (like the ones Dan suggested.)

Today I'm going to HomeDepot for lumber. And after that it's to Walmart for the orange 'giant Legos.' I forget the brand name.

I'll admit I'm scared of putting anything under the rigs feet unless we're level and sinking in mud.

Right now, we're home and our driveway is flat side to side and front to back, but there's a 2-ish percent slope away from the house. Great for keeping the house flood free, not so good for a 40' rig. So her front legs are pretty long. Eric manually leveled her. Somehow one of the middle legs is a 1/4" off the ground. I shoved a 1/4" piece of lumber under there so it wouldn't wobble.

So when do I use 'blocks' with this system? Is it safe to use say a piece of 2 x 10 under the front feet since those are the most extended?

If you had a 6pt system and were off to the lumber yard, what cuts/sizes would you get and would you get any of the plastic blocks?

I cannot wait to get to a rally!!!

 

[katkens-DW]

We have the 6 point system and when we went to Branson the site was so eneven the system had to pick the trailer off the ground to level it, We were like that for a week worked great never had to relevel it and it was level. When we are at home the area where we keep the trailer is so unlevel we had such a hard time to level it till we got this system now all Kenny does is park it and hit the buttom Shazam it's level!!We don't use any blocks or lumber at we have all the stuff and never use any of it.

 

[JohnDar]

I only have the four point Ground Control system and don't use boards under the tires any more. If I need extra height on one side, I'll put my cribbing pads under the jack pads. If you raise the tires up via boards, then you'll have to extend the jacks further. That may be a problem if the site has a significant slope to it, in that your jack won't have enough travel to hit the ground properly unless you crib under it.

My "recommendation" for any thing placed under a jack pad or tire is to exceed the diameter of the pad and don't pile timbers up. The pads I constructed don't require pinpoint accuracy in placing under the pads since they're bigger than the pads. If you want lumber for under the tires, use 2x10 or 2x12 for the base and 1x material of the same width for additional height, if needed. Any narrower and you have to be very accurate in placement in order to drive up on them and not overhang the sides. You want the footprint of the tire squarely on the lumber, not hanging off it. Be prepared to occasionally buy new lumber since it's liable to split down the grain line if it's not fully flush with the ground under it.

I had two sets of RV Leveler blocks (the orange ones) that I sold to my sister for $20 since I don't need them with my rig any more. They were a major pain anyways, trying to build up a wedge to put under the tires. They work OK for her smaller Golden Falcon, though.

 

[CactusTwo]

I have built an equal number of pads that are larger than the feet on my jacks and have sandwiched them with 3/4" plywood on both sides and added a gate pull handle to the side for easy pickup and clean off during the MUDDY season. A larger pad surface helps in ground and hot ashpalt compression keeping the rig looking cleaner right down to the feet. Used to use those Bal x-chocks but lost them in Roswell NM last winter.....aliens!! Well someone else is using them now I am sure. I keep the pads on the tailgate for quick access and use them every time I drop the feet

 

[brianharrison]

Hi Alice,

I would say you are correct in your terminology with the 6 point leveling system. Rigs without the 6 or 4 point leveling system have front landing gear and rear stabilizers. The rear stabilizers are not designed to take the full weight of the unit (only stabilize, ) hence the need to use boards under the tires to level the rig on uneven, side to side sites. In most cases I would assume you do not need boards as your six leveling jacks are designed to raise the rig right off the tires.

I sometimes use 2x10 "blocks", under my front landing gear if the ground is soft and the "feet" will sink in over time. They distribute the load over a greater area. The blocks are about 2 feet long by 10" wide, 2 boards screwed together to make about 3 inch thick.

I did see a large motorhome onetime where the owner had screwed two thick plastic (corian?) pieces to each side of a 2x12 which he used under his jacks. I thought that would help from splitting wood.

Some thoughts...... Hope this helps.

PS - I have not found the plastic, lego leveling blocks to be helpful with the heavier rigs - they break to easily.

Brian

 

[porthole]

As mentioned before, I would wait till you get to a rally before you buy too much.

I would return the BAL X chocks. They don't do much to begin with and are not needed with the Level Up.

Front hydraulic rams - landing gear.
Rear hydraulic rams - leveling jacks.
Rear electric stabilizers ( if you have them) - rear stabilizers. Of little use with 6 point hydraulic leveling.

Doubled up 2x10's or 2x12's, about 18" long are good just in case the ground is too soft.


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[Ray LeTourneau]

ericandalice, Great advice from the other replies. Like most, I had bought the "Lego" things and they are now in someone else's basement. I rarely used them. Like you, I have the yellow plastic chocks and those are fine for chocking before unhitching and they are the last thing I remove before pulling out. I also used 2X10's under the front landing gear for a larger footprint and to lessen the extending of the hydraulics.

 

[ericandalice]

So it seems that most folks prefer the 2 x 10 to a 2 x 12.

I think I'll go that route then. I like the idea of the larger footprint. That makes sense. Correct me if I'm wrong, but that would also protect the feet if we were to park on something like gravel.

 

[ericandalice]

One more question...

Since we've gotten home and have the rig parked in the drive (concrete) I've noticed an occasional creaking sound coming from beneath the trailer. It seems to be the hydraulics.

I read another thread about a loud popping noise and I wouldn't describe my sound as a popping. More like a clunk or a creak. Sometimes when it makes that sound I feel a vibration in the floor.

I'm chalking all of it up to a) it's a new rig so still being worn in b) the heat and humidity c) the extra height of the legs since we had to extend them pretty far to be level.

Being the paranoid newbie that I am, I used sidewalk chalk to mark where the feet were just to make sure the sound wasn't slippage. It's not.

Is there anything I should check on? Someone mentioned I should check U bolts. I'm going to look into that and the lug nuts and the tire pressure tomorrow before we leave.

 

[Gizzy]

We've had our coach for almost 2 yrs now and during our trip last summer I found the level up seemed to work best if I would put blocks under each leg until they appeared to be about the same distance from the bottom of the leg to the top of the block. That way the legs were all extended approximately the same distance (Side to side). We have the 4 point system with electric rear stabilizers and I have a set of blocks (2x10 with 2 4x4 stacked and screwed together) approximately 10" high that is placed beneath the foot. I feel this makes the rear more steady since they are not lowered so far. I have a rope attached that makes it much easier to remove when ready to leave and I don't have to keep stacking blocks since they are permanently fastened together. This works for us. Just thought I would pass it on.

 

[rick_debbie_gallant]

Hummmmmmmmmmmmmm, you know the old saying dont you? The more complex the given something, the greater the chances of something going wrong. (or something llike that.

 

[cpoores]

popping

I service industrial equipment. The popping around the hydraulic system may just be due to settle. The piston sticks in the cylinder walls, as weight and vibration cause to to give, it jumps like running your finger across a glass surface.
If it continues over time and actually measure the distance of your gear and see a difference over time, the a cylinder is bypassing or a po, pilot operated check valve, is leaking.

 

[porthole]

So it seems that most folks prefer the 2 x 10 to a 2 x 12.

I prefer a piece of Oak, 4" x12" about 18" long, but I got that for free from a marina Used for rack boat storage.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but that would also protect the feet if we were to park on something like gravel.

Why are you worrying about protecting the feet???
What do you use on the bottom of your shoes?

One more question...

Being the paranoid newbie that I am, I used sidewalk chalk to mark where the feet were just to make sure the sound wasn't slippage. It's not.

Throw the chalk away .........

 

[ericandalice]

Eric wanted to hold off on getting blocks until we 'needed' them. I vote it pays to be prepared. There was a dip beneath one of the back tires that had it dangling in the air. We ran to the closest store and bought a set of the orange blocks which helped steady things.

Today we're parked with the front feet on a tiny rise. The hydraulics on the front are all the way up. It looks like the unit is squatting. Have to say though, the bedroom has never felt more stable.

 

[porthole]

There was a dip beneath one of the back tires that had it dangling in the air. We ran to the closest store and bought a set of the orange blocks which helped steady things.

Are you saying your tire was off the ground bit so you got blocks to put under the tire?

 

[boatto5er]

No need to block up the wheels. I've often been on sites that caused one side or the other to be completely off the ground.


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