Level Up Leg Install Position

Does anyone know how high from the ground the foot plates should be on a 6 point level up system with legs fully retracted?

Is it common to have to put blocks under rear cylinders on 6 point level up system to achieve a level condition without getting an Out of Stroke error?

On our new BH 3270RS rear cylinder foot plates are 14 inches from ground on level site with cylinders fully retracted with a stroke of 15 inches.

When I am on a level site I get Out of Stroke error before achieving SUCCESS on display.

When I put 2 x 10 blocks under rear cylinders I got SUCCESS and a level coach.

My guess is the rear cylinders are set too high.
 

avvidclif

Well-known member
I wouldn't change them, just carry some 4x6 blocks about 8-10" long. Lowering the rear cylinders would reduce the ground clearance and 14" isn't much to begin with. It wouldn't take much of a dip going into a station to drag them.
 

sjandbj

Well-known member
I run into the same trouble on my Big Country. I am afraid to lower the pistons thinking that they may drag. I wonder if the change in tires have made the problem more common. I was going to ask Lippert when i am at the next show to see what they recommend.

Steve
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
The bottom of my foot pads are 10" to the ground when retracted.
I have been dragging this trailer around for 5 years and have not ripped them off yet.

Peace
Dave
 

pegmikef

Well-known member
I always put 4 x 12 blocks under all my jacks. Keeps plates from sinking in soft ground (i.e., Goshen) and I think that overall, it increases stability due to shorter shafts.
 

'Lil Guy'

Well-known member
This sounds like a learning curve for me. They're on my BH 3270RS when it arrives. Mike, what kind of blocks are you talking about? What about the front jack for hitching up? Does the front jacks have more travel I hope?
Thanks in advance.
 

Kenneths

Well-known member
The rear jacks on my Landmark are fairly close to the axels so even at 10" off of the ground you basically would be dragging the rear of the camper before the rear leg made contact with the ground. It is close enough to the pivot point so you don't have to worry too much.
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
I bought the Level Up so I never have to deal with those d#@% blocks of wood again !!!!!!!!! Mine are about 10" also I would lower yours if I were you, they are adjustable.
However I did buy these just in case I have a low point that needs a block. LOL and as you can see I have yet to use them.
Harbor freight...
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dlw930

Well-known member
The guys from Lippert's Level Up told us at the Goshen Rally that if you run a line from the bottom of the rear tire to the bottom of the frame (or bumper) at the rear end cap, the rear level up cylinder should be mounted so the foot pad is above that line when fully retracted. This is to keep the pad from hitting the ground when towing through dips and low spots in the road.


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pegmikef

Well-known member
This sounds like a learning curve for me. They're on my BH 3270RS when it arrives. Mike, what kind of blocks are you talking about? What about the front jack for hitching up? Does the front jacks have more travel I hope?
Thanks in advance.

I made mine Frank. On my 3010RE, the front landing jacks usually travel the least distance unless on a slope. I just used number one yellow pine 2 x 12s and they actually come in at about 3 1/4 inches high.
 

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avvidclif

Well-known member
The rear jacks on my Landmark are fairly close to the axels so even at 10" off of the ground you basically would be dragging the rear of the camper before the rear leg made contact with the ground. It is close enough to the pivot point so you don't have to worry too much.


Are your rear jack close to the back wheel or at the rear of the RV. Mine are centered on the spare, front to back, to support the rear end when loading heavy toys.
 

Bones

Well-known member
View attachment 39825

Here is a picture you can see the rear jack.
I like your RV. One would think that those rear jacks could drop down a little more. Maybe you can take a piece of string from the tire and go to the back of the rear to the lowest point and that is your max approach angle that the coach can take before you hit something. I would think you can drop the rear legs down to that line. Maybe some one else will chime in if I am wrong.
 
When I measure using the method David provided from the LCI Levelup guys I get that I can drop the rear cylinders as much as 6 inches putting them 8 inches from the ground. That seems awful low even though they are close to the back of the rear tires. I am thinking about lowering mine 3-4 inches putting them about 10 inches above the ground.
 

Bones

Well-known member
When I measure using the method David provided from the LCI Levelup guys I get that I can drop the rear cylinders as much as 6 inches putting them 8 inches from the ground. That seems awful low even though they are close to the back of the rear tires. I am thinking about lowering mine 3-4 inches putting them about 10 inches above the ground.
That sounds like a good plan. Another thought I had while I was backing into the driveway today. When I back up I am flat but my drive way goes up the curb a few inches so if the jacks were too close to the ground before the tires starting raising the camper you would hit the jacks. Lower them a little bit and see how it goes or you can use the suggestion earlier and make some blocks for the jacks to sit on and that will raise your effective length to achieve level.
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
If you drop them 4" you'll be fine. 10" off the ground gives you plenty of clearance and plenty of ram travel to not get a error
That's where I would try them next

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avvidclif

Well-known member
Here is a picture of the string test on a Cyclone. The landing gear is mounted toward the rear to support the toys and has to be high mounted. Either the spare or the landing gear is protecting the rear of the trailer.
 

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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
Here is a picture of the string test on a Cyclone. The landing gear is mounted toward the rear to support the toys and has to be high mounted. Either the spare or the landing gear is protecting the rear of the trailer.
I see you failed the string test.
I also see how far back your legs are. I would sure hate to drag them on ramp or driveway.
It looks like you have a lot of ground clearanse though.
My 40' toy hauler only had 14" off the ground at the rear and it drug on everything, so I mounted a set of rollers on the rear frame rails. And they definitely got used.
That would lower your string 3" or 4" and possibly save your legs some day.
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Bones

Well-known member
I definitely would not lower your legs any more than what they are now and just use wood blocks
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
I'm saying (Travelincajun) needs to drop his down to where the rest of ours are, around 10" to avoid the error code. When I get to my spot I just want to hit the button, like the system was designed for..
And (avvidclif) should put the wheel on the rear to avoid dragging the rear legs some day, when he least expects it.
Just my opinion !!!!

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