CoveredWagon
Well-known member
Do you ever find a need to use leveling devices (blocks or whatever) under the wheels if you have the lippert 6 point level up system ?
thanks, Dave
thanks, Dave
Leveling blocks
- Thread starter CoveredWagon
- Start date
'Lil Guy'
Well-known member
I've had to use them on occasion when the sites weren't level. You might have an instance where one or more legs run out of travel during leveling operation. The rig is more stable when the legs aren't extended to the max as in shorter extension is better. I installed the rubber pads to give me about 1 1/4 inch of length on the legs. You might even have an instance where the legs will lift the wheels on one side off the ground. I carry good leveling blocks just for this problem. I'm considering making some 4" to 6" wooden blocks to use all the time to decrease the extension. Again, if you find a nice level spot, no pads are necessary. JMO
avvidclif
Well-known member
I carry 4 6x8x12 blocks and 6 4x6x12 blocks. The less extension the better for stability and a site that is far off level, especially high front, you will need something on the rears. One site I was at the rear of the RV was almost shoulder high, front was on the ground. Lots of rear blocks.
Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
Say you were on a unlevel site to where the jacks on one side would be picking the tires off the ground. This is not a problem at all however you will feel the trailer move around a little more then if a 4 tires were touching down.
So the more tires touching the ground or blocks in this case the less movement you'll feel inside.
For short term stays I wouldn't use any blocks unless I absolutely had to for the jack to not bottom out.
But if I were staying a few weeks or months I would do everything I could to make it as stable as possible.
My biggest pleasure these days is backing into a site unhook and hit the AUTO LEVEL button.
Step back and watch the magic
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So the more tires touching the ground or blocks in this case the less movement you'll feel inside.
For short term stays I wouldn't use any blocks unless I absolutely had to for the jack to not bottom out.
But if I were staying a few weeks or months I would do everything I could to make it as stable as possible.
My biggest pleasure these days is backing into a site unhook and hit the AUTO LEVEL button.
Step back and watch the magic
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
We also carry for 12x12 2x6 blocks my logic is mostly to give the landing gear something more solid to land upon. Have had a few cases where the ground was loose gravel, and a couple of times muck and the wood provided a more stable (as in more contact area) landing pad for the jacks. I've also had to use them a time or three because the site was so slanted that I had to block the from to unhook the truck but those have been very rare occasions.
TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Our home site is not very level. One side the tires would be slightly off the ground. So we have some 2x6 under the tires, and blocks under the feet on that side. If we are on concrete or a fairly level site, we don't use them. Have SnapPads, and the provide a very nice base, especially on gravel.
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CoveredWagon
Well-known member
Say you were on a unlevel site to where the jacks on one side would be picking the tires off the ground. This is not a problem at all however you will feel the trailer move around a little more then if a 4 tires were touching down.
So the more tires touching the ground or blocks in this case the less movement you'll feel inside.
For short term stays I wouldn't use any blocks unless I absolutely had to for the jack to not bottom out.
But if I were staying a few weeks or months I would do everything I could to make it as stable as possible.
My biggest pleasure these days is backing into a site unhook and hit the AUTO LEVEL button.
Step back and watch the magic
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
thanks. This exactly the information I was looking for. 😊
Dave
- - - Updated - - -
Love it. 😁 I hope to be so lucky.
carl.swoyer
Well-known member
Just this past weekend at lake Louisa in Claremont Florida the site wasn't level. Instead of letting my door side wheels lift 4 inches I pulled my rig forward and placed blocks where the tires would be then back onto them. This levels me from side to side then I put blocks under the door side Jack's and manually lowered the rear jacks until they hit the ground. I always use blocks to keep the jack from fully extending.
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Nuclearcowboy
Well-known member
IMHO, I would NEVER set up with my wheels off the ground on one side, relying on my leveling jacks to have a level unit. This puts all the weight of the unit on the jacks -I could be wrong here but just wouldn't do it. I too carry as all assortment of wooden blocks with me just in case needed.Say you were on a unlevel site to where the jacks on one side would be picking the tires off the ground. This is not a problem at all however you will feel the trailer move around a little more then if a 4 tires were touching down.
So the more tires touching the ground or blocks in this case the less movement you'll feel inside.
For short term stays I wouldn't use any blocks unless I absolutely had to for the jack to not bottom out.
But if I were staying a few weeks or months I would do everything I could to make it as stable as possible.
My biggest pleasure these days is backing into a site unhook and hit the AUTO LEVEL button.
Step back and watch the magic
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
avvidclif
Well-known member
Why not??? The Lippert 6 point jacks are rated for a combined 56,000 lbs. Your rv isn't even straining them.
Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
I was going to say that but I didn't have the exact number.
I knew it would be a big one though.
Also the 6 point Level-up is picking up the frame at 6 points which isn't even .0001th of stress that we put on the RV traveling down the road.
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brianlajoie
Well-known member
We store our trailer on 4x4's and a yellow block. I have had to use a hammer to free the wooden blocks from the ice. I store them in an old recycle bin and keep them with us when we travel. Like others have said, I like shortening the bore stroke on with the level up on unleveled ground to stiffen up the movement.
Nuclearcowboy
Well-known member
Well, I suppose to each his own. However, the stabilizer jacks are just that, stabilizers. The Heartland Manuals have big orange warnings NOT to place the entire weight of the trailer on the leveling jacks. Lippert states the same thing. That is what I would go by.
avvidclif
Well-known member
There is BIG difference between "stabilizing jacks" and the Lippert 6 point leveling system.
Nuclearcowboy
Well-known member
I must be confusing 2 different systems. I have a Lippert 6 point hydraulic system that came installed on my RV. My manual states not to put the full weight of the trailer on these jacks. That is all I can say.
carl.swoyer
Well-known member
As a side note, I was talking to a Lippert factory Rep and he said that was a no no! So I use blocks.
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Az_Ernie
Well-known member
What was the Lippert Rep referring to? What is a no-no?
dlw930
Well-known member
In order to function as designed, Level Up must lift the entire weight of the trailer minus a portion of the weight of the wheels, axles and suspension. I'm guessing the weight of the suspension, etc. is on the order of 2000# for tandem axles. If the trailer weighs 16,000 #, on the order of 14,000 is being supported by the jacks. I expect Lippert's blank statement to not use the Level up to raise the tires off the ground is primarily for safety reasons since the trailer may be somewhat more stable with the tires on the ground. When I lift the tires off the ground for maintenance, I always put a jack stand or two under the frame for safety in the event the hydraulics fail.
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