Modification to the freshwater drain

[caissiel]

I have spent the month of october and 1/2 of november in the trailer and was very comfortable in the cold. While parked I build an insulated box with an open top that I placed over the Drain pipe and valve. Even on Mornings in the low 20's I never experienced any freezing on the unit, and I checked that every morning for sure. This unit is well build as far as freezing protection, and served me well in the cold Canadian fall.

But on the road going south I noticed some temperatures below freezing and was conserned about the brass valve freezing on me. It never did freeze but I am sure it was close on a cold morning. I realy wanted to travel with the water in the tank, something I never did before in freezing weather.

I came up with this Idea, to install an access door, on the belly cover near the drain line and install a valve above the belly cover that will be protected in cold weather, and leave the existing valve open. In summer weather just leave the valve open and use the lower existing valve as the shutoff valve easily accessible.

 

[lwmcguir]

Sounds like the best fix/upgrade that could be performed. Thanks for the tip.

 

[jvblade]

I need to look at doing this. I've had huge issues with freezing the last couple of weeks. I've put a radiant heater placed under the tank below the drain to stop the freezing. I'm kicking myself for not having a tank heater installed! But that will be a project in the spring.

One question I have since you have opened the belly - what is the distance from the enclosed belly to the tank? Were you able to note where the take-off is to the pump?

 

[caissiel]

I never did see the section to the freshwater tank, one would assume its fairly high so as the pump not have to draw up to much. The bubbly stuff insulates quit well, in the same time it kept the inside of the box warm enough. I have given this some tought and since we seldom use this valve, I might just install a 12V normaly closed vave above the belly. I have a 3/8" brass valve on my fuel dump tank on my truck that serves me well, low pressure and not expensive.

 

[jvblade]

I never did see the section to the freshwater tank, one would assume its fairly high so as the pump not have to draw up to much. The bubbly stuff insulates quit well, in the same time it kept the inside of the box warm enough. I have given this some tought and since we seldom use this valve, I might just install a 12V normaly closed vave above the belly. I have a 3/8" brass valve on my fuel dump tank on my truck that serves me well, low pressure and not expensive.

I love automation - this sounds like a great idea. In fact I like your idea about an access hole. If I make one big enough, I should be able to reach in and stick on a heater pad on the tank.

 

[jbeletti]

UltraHeat Tank Heater

This subject is currently active on another thread on the forum, but I'll post it here as I saw this thread a few minutes ago.

I was at the LM/BH/BC factory today and spoke with the guy that configures the tanks before they are installed on the line. Here is what I can pass on as far as Heartland's Tank Heating option:

1. When you order, you get a heating pad for each tank (so generally, 4 pads in total)
2. The pads are made by UltraHeat
3. The pads we buy are OEM style (different than the retail versions)
4. Ours are 110 VAC only
5. They are about 8" wide by 24" long
6. They are all controlled by a single switch inside the RV
7. Per UltraHeat's website, all tank heaters are thermostatically controlled. See the last attached image. connected to the red butt splice and under the tape is what I believe to be the thermostat element/switch
8. The "stick" to the bottom of the tanks with a mastic that is applied to the pad by UltraHeat
9. They are applied to the tanks in a North-South orientation (front-back of the RV if you will)
10. Prior to improvements to our tank support straps, the pads "were" installed in an East-West orientation (side to side of RV)
11. Current draw "per pad" at 110 VAC is .94 amps

Of particular interest I noted on the installation instructions is that you must have liquid in the tanks before using the heaters. Makes sense to me but, hopefully, everyone remembers to make sure they have liquid in ALL tanks. All 4 of them

I've attached 4 pictures from these pads.

Jim

 

[caissiel]

It does make sense, but its an other thing to to looen up but easy and cheaper.

 

[jmgratz]

Jim, what happens if there is no water in the tank?

 

[porthole]

Probably the same same thing with any water heater. Without water to absorb the heat being generated the heating elements tend to burn out.

 

[jbeletti]

Jim,

My guess is with no water mass to absorb the heat, the tank and heating pad take the brunt. Suppose over time, it could affect the structure of the tank and like Duane mentioned, burn out the heater or at least make the mastic hot flow and cause the heater to fall off the tank.

Just guesses.

Jim

 

[rick_debbie_gallant]

Jim

Dumb ? I take these pads are an option?

 

[2010augusta]

Rick, correct the tank heaters are an option.

 

[htneighbors]

This from http://www.ultraheat.com/faq.html...

Q) Will the UltraHeat™ Tank Heater damage the holding tank if little or no liquid is in the tank when the UltraHeat™ Tank Heater is "ON"?

A) In most all cases, NO, the UltraHeat™ Tank Heater will not damage any type of holding tank. If the outside temperature is below 44° F (7° C) and the Ultra Heat Tank Heater is "ON" with little or no liquid in the black or gray holding tank, the tank heater will possibly create sewer gas that may give off odors. This said, some liquid must always be present within the tanks when using the UltraHeat system.

 

[jbeletti]

Thanks HT - with you, Duane, Alan, the Mods and others, I never need to check in with the forum Seriously, thanks you everyone for always stepping up and stepping in with great information.

Jim

 

[caissiel]

I was reading an other SOB Info brochure, it has an insulated fresh water drain, I will surely be looking to see how the set up looks.

 

[Boca_Shuffles]

Jim

Dumb ? I take these pads are an option?

Our dealer didn't know this when we ordered our BH from the factory. We were told that the furnace would keep the tanks functional.

We'll just have to order these on our 2012, 2013 or 2014 next year. The model years change so fast!! Our 2010 is now old because the 2011's are out.

 

[caissiel]

You said it my new 09 is now 2 years old.

 

[Boca_Shuffles]

Only the Landmark lists the heater pads as an option on the 2010. They are not listed for the Big Horn, Elk Ridge or Big Country, on the Heartland website.

But then, I only found out from the dealer that you can upgrade your tires to Goodyear G614's if you order it from the factory. Maybe he didn't know about adding the heat pads.

 

[jvblade]

I was never informed by the sales team regarding the tank heater option. A manufacturers rep was also present and also never mentioned it. Both were well aware that we would be using our trailer in cold weather since I ordered the dual pane windows. We do live in Canada where the rest of the population live in igloos!!

I definitely would have ordered the heat pads if I had known about them. Ultraheat is a great product - I used them on another trailer with great success. Now its going to be a huge job to put them on the tanks after the fact. Oh well, I'll know better for the next 5th wheel!

 

[porthole]

Our 2010 is now old because the 2011's are out.

Or you could look at it this way - your 2010 isn't born yet 'cause its still 2009.

Least how that's how I'm looking at it.