Mor/Ryde hitch height vs CRE/3000

[gpshemi]

Just got around to installing my Mor Ryde pin hitch. At first I hooked it up lower so I'd have more bed clearance. Even at my stock 6", I had a few times when the bed touched the bottom of the nose. I've also watched it push on my underside light hard several times and worried it would get smashed or torn off. In any event it gave my closer to 8", which is awesome, and also helps avoid the hitch hitting my roll cover tracks on either side of the bed when turning sharp. However, it also raised the front of the Cyclone slightly without even leveling the truck's attitude with air. I lowered the Cyclone's springs last year to get it raised and level. It rode better that way too. This will reverse that again.

I'm wondering if I add Mor/Ryde shackles (CRE/3000 or the SRE/4000) down the road, will it again raise the trailer to compinsate for the new increased pin height? Did anyone gain height with the addition of the shackles? My shackles are maxed in the middle and have one more to go on the front and back hangers for what that's worth. They were off a hole from each other from the factory.

Also, the new pin height gives me 4 bolt per side rather than 5. I assume this is still fine.

 

[porthole]

Send Ben a note at MOR/ryde, send it today and my guess is you will have an answer by 9am tomorrow.

Ben.Wiginton@morryde.com

 

[gpshemi]

I have. Just thought someone might have experience here.

 

[gpshemi]

Well Mor Ryde got back with me. They had several thoughts.
1) The new shackles will not change the ride hieght much if at all.
2) Lowering the pin box one set of bolt holes leaves me with 4 bolts per side instead of 5 and they didn't like that without drill another hole somewhere and using the 5th bolt.
3) I will only gain 1/2" by moving the spring ends down to the last hole (one below the equalizers).

I had a thought though. I got looking at my current pin Lippert box from the factory, and it has grade 5's in it. Four bolts at Grade 8 would be as strong if not more so.
Wonder why they use Grade 5's?

Here's a pic of my problem with the bed sides. If I go down a set of hole I get the clearance I need for the truck bed sides, but then the Cyclone sits nose high...BEFORE I add air to level it. Fade back 10 yrds and punt...

.

 

[porthole]

Sawz-all, grinder and satin paint, some type of edge guard then since you will a sharp edge instead of a "rolled edge"

Can't see where taking that corner will hurt.

 

[driver311]

u have the wrong length pin box.

 

[porthole]

Here's a pic of my problem with the bed sides. If I go down a set of hole I get the clearance I need for the truck bed sides, but then the Cyclone sits nose high...BEFORE I add air to level it. Fade back 10 yrds and punt...

.

Measure your pin box, let me know where you point to point and I will measure mine.

 

[TwoGypsies]

I'm not a metallurgist, but is it possible the Grade 8's would be too stiff, i.e. at risk of a brittle fracture? I like the idea and would do it myself rather than going back to nose high, just worth asking the question before deciding. Are there any smart guys who can comment?

 

[gpshemi]

Grade 8's are superior in shear and tension. The brittle arguement is really a myth. In fact in tensile Grade 8's yield after Grade 5's have failed.

In any event, I'm leary of cutting off the return portion of the pin box. That gives it lateral strength I'm sure. I think I'll lower the hitch (raise the nose) and move my eyelets to the extreme in all cases (.5" gain). I have some new Bridgestone R250's coming for the Cyclone, and I hope I'll gain a smidge (.6") from that as well.

 

[porthole]

I'm leary of cutting off the return portion of the pin box. That gives it lateral strength I'm sure

My guess, and it is just tht, I the re below the last bolt doesn't add any strength.
But maybe the extra you will gain by moving the pin box and tires will suffice.

Either cutting or drilling the extra hole you are removing something.