Need 12V Power Port in Bed of Truck

[scottyb]

I recently acquired an 80 QT ARB Fridge/Freezer for our Cyclone. On occasion I intend to carry it in the bed of my truck, like when we recently dropped the Cyclone in Phoenix and dead-headed home for a couple weeks. I built an adapter using the 7 pin RV plug and a power port. However, it is a keyed power source and would not be active when the truck is off. I assume than nothing at the rear of the truck is active full time. I'm trying to decide what would be the simplest but clean way to tap the 12V. Should I come off a battery and run a wire all the way along the frame. Any ideas are appreciated. I'm not concerned about running down the batteries because the fridge has circuitry to prevent draining the batteries. It has 3 user selected battery saver levels.

 

[jnbhobe]

How long will it be in the truck when the truck is not running?

 

[dbbls59]

Seems the simplest to come off the battery as you stated.

 

[caissiel]

I am not using the build in battery connection, I ran a larger wire direct from the battery with a 30amp circuit breaker. Its stupid the way OEM wired the battery connection.

 

[scottyb]

How long will it be in the truck when the truck is not running?

Could be over night at the longest. It only pulls about 3 Ah at 12V.

 

[scottyb]

I am not using the build in battery connection, I ran a larger wire direct from the battery with a 30amp circuit breaker. Its stupid the way OEM wired the battery connection.

There is a power port in the storage compartment under the back seat that I will probably never use. It comes from a 20A fuse in the box under the hood. I can easily access the wiring going to into it, but how to get the wiring outside the cab and into the bed.

Seems the simplest to come off the battery as you stated.

I'm starting to believe that. I was hoping somebody here had already done something similar or knew of a dynamite solution.

 

[jnbhobe]

Could be over night at the longest. It only pulls about 3 Ah at 12V.

I've let mine go over night and it never made much difference.

 

[porthole]

I have it both ways on my truck.
From the battery to a bus bar under the dash and from the starter lug to the rear bumper. Both are fused at the battery.
Under the dash it goes to a variety of places. For the bed I went under the door sill plates (they pop right off) to the rear door, then though the plug to under the body and then up through the bed.
Under the front floor mat is a 3" body plug that you can through that will give access to the front fender area.

May as well do it once. I used 8 gauge wire to the bed to a bus bar for future use.

 

[FiremanBill]

I installed LED lights in my truck bed and ended up running a 12 lead straight back along the frame rail from the battery. Was the easiest solution I could come up with to get un switched 12v power back there. It wasn't difficult at all. Zip ties are our friend.

 

[scottyb]

I have it both ways on my truck.
From the battery to a bus bar under the dash and from the starter lug to the rear bumper. Both are fused at the battery.
Under the dash it goes to a variety of places. For the bed I went under the door sill plates (they pop right off) to the rear door, then though the plug to under the body and then up through the bed.
Under the front floor mat is a 3" body plug that you can through that will give access to the front fender area.

May as well do it once. I used 8 gauge wire to the bed to a bus bar for future use.

Where is the plug by the back seat? I was looking for it behind the seat. I must have missed it. The power port under the back seat is not keyed, but the wiring for it doesn't look heavy enough to run back to the rear or the bed.

I installed LED lights in my truck bed and ended up running a 12 lead straight back along the frame rail from the battery. Was the easiest solution I could come up with to get un switched 12v power back there. It wasn't difficult at all. Zip ties are our friend.

How did you connect to the battery? Did you use a breaker or an inline fuse? This is starting to seem like the easiest route. Man that fuse box is in there tight. I can hardly get the top off of it in between everything. It's not nearly as accessible as on my past trucks.

 

[porthole]

Have to think about this for a moment - There is a plug on the rear wall IIRC, difficult to access, but I have used it.

I'll check the truck later, I might have "made my own" plug at the rear door.


The fuse box is nearly impossible to access, as are the "pass through" wires.
And, as you have found the factory wiring is probably just adequate for the circuits. Although I think the wires really are all undersized.


I used the battery on the right, just used an eyelet connector and a waterproof fuse holder, crimp connects and shrink tubing.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--in-line-waterproof-fuse-holder--11975869

You can get crimp butt connectors that are set for two different wire gauges. Here is an example, but Ancor makes then in many sizes.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor-marine--step-down-butt-connectors--P009_275_004_508

 

[porthole]

Something I did not do when I initially started running wires, was make then easy to disconnect. At the time I did not know the preferred procedure with the Ford trucks was to pull the cab or bed to do major repairs.
There are many engine repairs that you would not normally remove the cab, but they are so easy to lift now and it makes access so much better, that lifting the cab is quite common.

When I do this "stuff" to the next truck I will make sure every thing is able to be easily disconnected.

 

[FiremanBill]

Where is the plug by the back seat? I was looking for it behind the seat. I must have missed it. The power port under the back seat is not keyed, but the wiring for it doesn't look heavy enough to run back to the rear or the bed.



How did you connect to the battery? Did you use a breaker or an inline fuse? This is starting to seem like the easiest route. Man that fuse box is in there tight. I can hardly get the top off of it in between everything. It's not nearly as accessible as on my past trucks.

On my Dodge there is a hot lead going to the fuse box from the battery that is pretty easy to access. I put an eyelet connector and just bolted it down on there. Put an inline fuse in there right by the box to protect it all.

 

[Jim.Allison]

For a truck bed install;

Reading this thread I noticed a lot of good ideas along the way. I would just add; use a quality wire of a sufficient gage, use the plastic sheathing to protect, and zip-ties are your friend as stated earlier. I would also use a marine DC socket with a cover and I would check into installing a dual outlet. Use all quality terminals and a quality crimper. Use heat shrink sleeves to protect the terminals. Be sure to install a quality fuse holder (with cover) close to the battery. I would make it a dedicated circuit and would not tie into any truck systems.

 

[scottyb]

I was able to follow the inside of the frame all the way. I used #8 AWG because that is what I had. Probably could have got by with #10. I came off the driver side battery, added a waterproof fuse module, and came through one of the factory holes under the bed rail. I am running the fridge now to see if the truck will start in the AM. I still have a little tidying up to do the protect the wiring at rub points.

 

[gebills]

Referencing the current draw from the portable freezer (our is a Dometic, current draw on 12V is 7,0A when its running), with a compartment full of frozen salmon, and having left it in the truck for roughly 60+ hours, the Cummins fired to life without any note detected of "low battery". As previously mentioned, this cooler/freezer also has a shutdown if the battery should get low. I've chosen to put the freezer in the back seat though; after paying a ransom for this unit, if I don't have it locked in the B/H basement, I fold the back seats up in the Ram, and plug it into the "full-time powered" outlet in the top of the center console. It runs happily at -2 degrees F. I do keep the unit covered in the back seat to prevent being seen by prying eyes while keeping the compressor vent clear.....

 

[scottyb]

Mine uses 7 Amps at 12V too. I suppose that is the max during cooldown. It recommends the HI setting if ran off the starting batteries. Cutoff point is 11.8V and restart is at 12.6V.