Never Lube wheel bearings

[Jim.Allison]

Everyone is not like you, some will do as you do, some will do as I do, and some will neglect it until they are on the side of the road with a burned out bearing. You are also forgetting that there are a significant number of people that will induce bearing failure by following the procedure you do as they are not competent to do it themselves and some will not pay for someone else to do it for them.

I would hope that the bearings were packed prior to being installed in an EZ lube system. To rely on the EZ lube for the initial lube would not be beneficial. I would think that they use a bearing packing tool for install.

As I have always said, why do we keep messing with the tried and true ways of doing things. Take them apart and do the bearings the right way. I bet the hand packed bearings will be around a lot longer than the easy lube.

 

[dave10a]

Everyone is not like you, some will do as you do, some will do as I do, and some will neglect it until they are on the side of the road with a burned out bearing. You are also forgetting that there are a significant number of people that will induce bearing failure by following the procedure you do as they are not competent to do it themselves and some will not pay for someone else to do it for them.

I would hope that the bearings were packed prior to being installed in an EZ lube system. To rely on the EZ lube for the initial lube would not be beneficial. I would think that they use a bearing packing tool for install.

you have a valid point, but I think packing bearings is not that difficult. It is a matter of self confidence and mechanical experience. I think most people can determine if they have that confidence to do it or not. Having someone else do the work for you is not necessarily a guarantee that the work is done properly either. Personally, I prefer to do things myself knowing my limitations. It is easy for people to make the determination of self-reliance by educating themselves of the task. Youtube and other resources are available for that education for those who are willing to do the work themselves. Besides in case of an emergency one is better off if they are self-reliant.
By the way, I believe the EZ lube systems are all initially properly lubed with packed bearings unless the factory screwed up. In that case one would not get far down the road before a bearing failure. I also believe that the EZ lube system can provide a sense of false security.

 

[porthole]

Seals blow out from improper application of grease. With the EZ-Lube you are supposed to raise the wheel and turn it while lubricating it. Just simply attaching a grease gun to the zerk and pumping grease into the system would naturally put an unusual amount of pressure on the seal. Ideally the hub is filled with grease already and just a few pumps with a grease gun are required to purge a small amount on each lubrication cycle.

Can you explain how that is possible?

EZ Lube, although may work is just a marketing tool to let the consumer think he can save money.

The system no doubt is a carry over from the marine side of things where there is a specific type of bearing protection and a specific reason for filling the cavity.

BTW, the marine version of this type of bearing maintenance actually uses a low amount of pressure in the hub as part of the protection (approximately 2-3 psi)

There is no legitimate reason for "filling" the hub with grease, other then to keep grease sales up.
Never did it in all my years in my prior career - and I would bet I have packed more wheel bearings then most folks on this forum. And I never had one fail.

Does anyone have any reason against the bearing packer tools that are available from Sears. Timken, Harbor Freight and various auto store. Hand packing looks like it may not be as fool proof as those bearing packers.

You mean something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-34550-Handy-Packer-Bearing/dp/B0002NYDYO

These work pretty good and in fact may be better for those who are not quite proficient in the hand packing method, or prefer not to wash their hands in a grease tub. Hand packing works well done properly but takes time. And, it is easy to get 2/3's to 3/4's the way through and miss an area.


Using a packer like linked above tends to get grease though every crevice in one shot. And if you take the bearing out, spin it a rev or 2 and pack again, it is filled.
Unfortunately many people have over the years cheated using these packers. By cheating I mean put in a bearing filled with old grease and just pump grease through without a thorough inspection and cleaning.

 

[Jim.Allison]

Porthole, the EZ lube grease port travels through the axle and comes out between the seal and inner bearing. If you lube with a long stroke/high volume high pressure grease gun, it is possible that you can overfill the space between the bearing and seal before the grease has an opportunity to extrude through the inner bearing, the pressure can then push the seal from its seat. This is why Dexter states that you should raise the wheel and rotate it while lubricating it. The spring loaded bearing buddy systems also have a limit on how much grease you can squeeze into the hub. Overfilling it can push the seal out. Its not the spring that exerts the pressure that blows the seal, its the over filling that pushes the spring loaded plunger to its limits that enables the pressure to build and subsequently blow the seal.

When you say that the EZ lube system is just a marketing tool, are you saying that grease does not purge the bearings and lube them? Where does the grease go that you push through the zerk? I have personally witnessed the old grease being purged from my hubs, I don't think that you can make the case that it is a non functional lubricating system and that there is a practical reason that filling the hub is detrimental in our bearing applications, but perhaps it is detrimental

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28664/dangers-of-overgreasing-

I think that frequent lubrication can solve the churning problems potentially created by the grease in the void. I dont think that 650 rpm can cause this problem with the quality of lube that we should be using.

As far as saving money, I think that 20 minutes lubing your bearings with your EZ lube system each season is more favorable to spending $125 bucks to have them hand packed by your dealer, certainly better than the Never-Lube, and most certainly better than neglecting them.

Can you explain how that is possible?

EZ Lube, although may work is just a marketing tool to let the consumer think he can save money.

The system no doubt is a carry over from the marine side of things where there is a specific type of bearing protection and a specific reason for filling the cavity.

BTW, the marine version of this type of bearing maintenance actually uses a low amount of pressure in the hub as part of the protection (approximately 2-3 psi)

There is no legitimate reason for "filling" the hub with grease, other then to keep grease sales up.
Never did it in all my years in my prior career - and I would bet I have packed more wheel bearings then most folks on this forum. And I never had one fail.




You mean something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-34550-Handy-Packer-Bearing/dp/B0002NYDYO

These work pretty good and in fact may be better for those who are not quite proficient in the hand packing method, or prefer not to wash their hands in a grease tub. Hand packing works well done properly but takes time. And, it is easy to get 2/3's to 3/4's the way through and miss an area.


Using a packer like linked above tends to get grease though every crevice in one shot. And if you take the bearing out, spin it a rev or 2 and pack again, it is filled.
Unfortunately many people have over the years cheated using these packers. By cheating I mean put in a bearing filled with old grease and just pump grease through without a thorough inspection and cleaning.

 

[dave10a]

I had lubed my bearings as recommended by Dexter and guess what, I burned one out on the freeway that cost me plenty not to mention the gross inconvenience. I now agree that EZ Lube is a marketing gimmick that provides a false sense of security. I now believe that hand packing is the best way to go every 6000 miles or annually for my trailer because that provides me with more security and the means to inspect the bearings, races and brakes more frequently. Bearing failure is not always from lack of grease when one realizes that fatigue is more likely the cause. When my bearing failed from fatigue it splattered fresh grease all over the place because the EX lube filled the hub.
My advise is to forget the EX lube greasing..... and rely on hand packing and proper inspection intervals.

 

[porthole]

Sometimes I'll ask a question I do know the answer to, but ask anyway so others will have something to think about.

That said. EZ Lube, assuming a new setup with a hub properly filed (ez lube standards)

I pump some grease through the fitting and purge -freshen up my bearings a bit.

So, now my trailer is 2 years old - I do the same, only now, how do I know how much grease I need? A tube per hub maybe?
I add my grease, it travels through the hub and starts to displace older grease in the rear bearing. Hopefully it does a good job at this because I am rotating the wheel.
This old grease, now replaced with an almost 100% new grease application is now pushing through the hub and since essentially non compressible, is purging some old grease out of the outer bearing - yeah.

But, somewhere in that hub I have a slug of old grease from the rear bearing. "If" I use enough grease to displace that old slug it will then purge the new grease I just put through the outer bearing with some old grease, which eventually will be displaced with some new grease, which by way of application, is not 100% new.

So, for me, it is a marketing gimmick that never allows 100% new, non contaminated grease to be applied to the bearings. As well as a lack of inspection and thorough cleaning.

It may work well for the average bear, but for the mechanical types - it is smoke and mirrors.

Bearing buddies have a different purpose in life and really don't apply to our application, unless of course you have a habit of dunking your axles in the lake.

 

[jnbhobe]

What Duane said is all that needs to be said do it right the first time and it will be good for 3 or 4 years

 

[Jim.Allison]

I really think all of this is mental gymnastics. Without data from control groups no-one can say what is better for the owners as a whole, as far as bearings are concerned.

But like I said earlier; I believe nothing will beat COMPETENT disassembly, inspection, packing, and reassembly of a wheel assembly. Simply lubing a zerk (I thnk adequate for lubrication) does not include inspection of the assembly from the axle out. Disassembly and inspection insures that all components; bearing, race, hub, seal, nut, retainer, drum, lugs and nuts, and wheels, are fit for service. And while you are inspecting you might as well inspect those suspension components and tires.

So hand packing has more benefits than one might think.

 

[etcmss]

read this thread and no one bothered to provide a link to help the new guy do this, if they choose. so if someone would provide feedback on this method, which seems pretty good, it might help direct the beginner.... this seems like a nice write-up, comments on what is not stated is beneficial.
or can we get a place to add these type maintenance tips to the Forum Manual section to help others, lastly it could be just use Google/Bing search ----I really like a good link and then endorsement by the experienced.
so lube every year or 6000-10000 miles.

http://www.trailerlife.com/rv-trailer-news/bearing-down-repacking-wheel-bearings/

Gary

 

[danemayer]

read this thread and no one bothered to provide a link to help the new guy do this, if they choose. so if someone would provide feedback on this method, which seems pretty good, it might help direct the beginner.... this seems like a nice write-up, comments on what is not stated is beneficial.
or can we get a place to add these type maintenance tips to the Forum Manual section to help others, lastly it could be just use Google/Bing search ----I really like a good link and then endorsement by the experienced.
so lube every year or 6000-10000 miles.

http://www.trailerlife.com/rv-trailer-news/bearing-down-repacking-wheel-bearings/

Gary

Hi Gary,

I assume that you're referring to yourself as the new guy. Here's a link to a thread on the forum that may be a helpful comparison.

 

[porthole]

read this thread and no one bothered to provide a link to help the new guy do this, if they choose. so if someone would provide feedback on this method, which seems pretty good, it might help direct the beginner.... this seems like a nice write-up, comments on what is not stated is beneficial.
or can we get a place to add these type maintenance tips to the Forum Manual section to help others, lastly it could be just use Google/Bing search ----I really like a good link and then endorsement by the experienced.
so lube every year or 6000-10000 miles.

http://www.trailerlife.com/rv-trailer-news/bearing-down-repacking-wheel-bearings/

Gary

The article is fairly good, but a little vague on re-installing the outer nut and torque procedure.

Bearing, washer, nut, torque as mentioned while continuously spinning the wheel, very important especially if you changed out the bearings.
Back off until the wheel is loose, re-torque.

Back off until the wheel is loose. Lightly snug while spinning the wheel until all the play is gone, with no torque. If the cotter pin does not line up with the hole - loosen - do not tighten for alignment.

 

[JanAndBill]

Here is the link to DEXTER's service manual suggest you follow their instructions http://manuals.heartlandowners.org/...ake - 600-8K_Complete_Service_Manual_3-13.pdf you can find this under the forum tools menu as well as a cross reference on seals.

Per the manual torque to 50# while spinning the wheel. From past experience I usually bump the tire a few times around the perimeter pretty hard with a 3# hammer, then back off the nut slightly and re-torque. Carefully unscrew the nut, without moving the wheel, then run back finger tight. The newer models use a snap on retainer/lock. With lock on you should be able to slightly jiggle the nut. If not then the nut is to tight, remove the retainer, loosen just a bit and retry it with the retainer/lock in place. Getting the correct pre-load is one of the most important parts of the process and probably the one most incorrectly done even by those who should know better.

Personally I'm not a big fan of the easy lube method for many of the reasons already brought up here. I did pack the the center as best I could with grease before installing the outer bearing, so that I can pump a little in during the year to freshen it up. That said I still intend to clean, inspect, and repack my wheel bearings every 10,000 miles. Knowing I have a problem here, next to my shop, is a whole lot better then finding out on the side of the road somewhere.

 

[porthole]

The first sentence you suggest following the manual.
Th e3rd sentence you deviate form the manual.
From past experience you "bump" the tire.
What is your past experience and why do you do that?

 

[JanAndBill]

The first sentence you suggest following the manual.
Th e3rd sentence you deviate form the manual.
From past experience you "bump" the tire.
What is your past experience and why do you do that?

Duane having grown up on a large farm with a shop, I learned at a early age by my father's side how to service and repair a variety of equipment. Later in life I founded an over the road trucking company where we did all of our repairs in house until my shop manager retired and I got to old and lazy. Working in the shop when I got the chance was my way of relieving stress (you have a lot of that when you own a trucking company). Bumping the tire after you torque the nut is a practice taught to me years ago to make sure the bearings are fully seated in the race (on truck tires we used a sledge hammer). It may not be as important on smaller bearings like they use here, but old habits die hard, and it doesn't hurt. I back off slightly and re-torque, because it's a progressive thing when you torque a nut and prevents over torque.

 

[dave10a]

Here is a link that shows bearing damage analysis. That shows various bearing failures and as well as how bearing life is affected by pre-load (page 22 of the PDF file). It appears a slight pre-load provides the longest life while too much pre-load or loose nut offers the shortest life. Dexter recommends that the nut be finger tightened which provides zero/slight pre-load. http://www.timken.com/en-us/Knowledge/ForMaintenanceProfessionals/Pages/BearingDamageAnalysis.aspx