Newbie electrical usage Qs and other misc stuff...

wyleyrabbit

Well-known member
Yeah, we've been to a couple of RV parks where the residents run the biggest portable propane tanks I've ever seen. They were 350 pound tanks, if I remember right.
 

Natesi

Active Member
I have been given a Electric Meter at one campground with an Outlet on one side and a pigtail plug on the other. Since I was there for a month and getting their lower monthly rate... the solution for the campgrounds was to have a portable meter available for Month long RV Stays.

This method worked very well... just plug in the Electric Meter to a properly installed 30 or 50 Amp outlet on the house electrical system... and then plug the RV's electrical cord into the portable Meter's outlet. With the meter reading at hand... subtract the reading you started with the end of month use... multiply the KW used by the Rate the Electric Company charges.

Any qualified electrician could put together this type of Electrical Meter. But if your not able to locate a Meter... there are other choices. Here are a couple links...

(Note: this type is also sold on Ebay)
http://www.metersusa.com/WattMeters/ResMeters.htm?gclid=CL2NtZ_r3Z4CFY915QodQzDGJg

http://www.theenergydetective.com/what/overview.html

It's not an easy question to answer... For each electrical appliance you use... the cost changes. If your using electric heaters to stay warm... costs really increase... If you need to run the A/C for cooling...

Perhaps it would be just as easy to just Split the monthly costs...

That TED device looks AWESOME, and relatively easy to install, although I will look at more particulars tonight when I get home.

Was this portable meter you were given at the camp ground something "home made" or off the shelf? For example, did they take one of the more "permanent" metering devices that we've been looking at, but just install electrical plug connections on each end?
 

SmokeyBare

Well-known member
The Portable Meter was exactly like used on a Home. Meter Base was the size for a Meter... the Pigtail Connection was like used for an RV. If you use 30 Amp... a cord used for a Dryer would do... if you need 50 Amp... one for a Electric Range/Oven would do. The Outlet was a square work box with a outlet installed... wires ran from the Meter base to the Outlet box with a short connection of Conduit. All Bolted to a plywood board with a handy carrying handle attached to the top edge. Guess it could be mounted on a wall if this would be better for your application.

The Meter base and Electrical Parts could be obtained from a Home Building Center. The House Meter will probably be gotten from an Electric Company.

If this link works... here is what Home Depot sells... But looking at this one... the one the Campground used... was Meter Only Base... very short... Square in fact. It did not have a place for Breakers below.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

First order of business would be to locate a Electric Meter.... No borrowing a Neighbors !! :)

Marv
 

Natesi

Active Member
OK... OK... Been looking at the TED device tonight. Head throbbing... **but** I think I got figured some things out. It looks like the unit does not measure output per breaker, but for the entire house.

You simply connect the metering device to a breaker in the breaker box for (a) power AND (b) communication.

Basic install diagram: http://www.theenergydetective.com/what/install.html
Youtube vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgcvvJPX46M

So, the install diagram specifies 15, 20, or 30 amp breaker. I'm confused as to why the size of the breaker even makes a difference as long as the metering device is getting powered by 120 volts. Does that make any sense?

ALSO, being how it measures the output of the entire house and not just the breaker, I would have to install the metering device in the breaker box FOR THE RV -- not the house. I don't see any reason why that shouldn't work... right?

Except one odd thing I noticed is that the metering-device inside the breaker box is rated for operation down to 5 degrees C (only 41 degrees F). That kind of rules out winter usage if it gets down to freezing (which it normally does here for a couple months). Seems ridiculous to make a metering device that goes into an electrical panel, but the temp can't get down below 41F? Even my two car garage got below that in the winter time.

Man, I think I just wasted HOURS looking into the implementation details of this TED device -- can't believe how hard it is becoming.....
 
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Natesi

Active Member
The Portable Meter was exactly like used on a Home. Meter Base was the size for a Meter... the Pigtail Connection was like used for an RV. If you use 30 Amp... a cord used for a Dryer would do... if you need 50 Amp... one for a Electric Range/Oven would do. The Outlet was a square work box with a outlet installed... wires ran from the Meter base to the Outlet box with a short connection of Conduit. All Bolted to a plywood board with a handy carrying handle attached to the top edge. Guess it could be mounted on a wall if this would be better for your application.

The Meter base and Electrical Parts could be obtained from a Home Building Center. The House Meter will probably be gotten from an Electric Company.

If this link works... here is what Home Depot sells... But looking at this one... the one the Campground used... was Meter Only Base... very short... Square in fact. It did not have a place for Breakers below.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

First order of business would be to locate a Electric Meter.... No borrowing a Neighbors !! :)

Marv

I *think* I followed that. My brain is fried. The big caveat to that solution is obtaining a regular city meter though. I'm pretty sure that's not going to be doable.

Maybe once my creative juices get flowing I can think of a way to do something similar with some of these other metering devices. The TED device looks awesome, but after spending hours to figure out the details, I'm not so sure it will work (50-amp breaker and below 41 degrees F temps). I'm kinda heart broken because it's such a cool device that does everything I want and installation looks easy-breezy. BUT alas, it may not work for my application.

= (
 

Natesi

Active Member
Wait a second!! Back to the TED device...

There's a breaker box somewhere in the Big Horn, right??? Couldn't I just install this device there, where the main power comes into the breaker box? PLUS, there's normal residential type 15 - 20 amp breakers there, correct? And if the breaker box is inside, that would certainly take care of the 41 degree F problem. Just curious, anyone have pics of the breaker box in the Big Horn by chance -- where the main shore power wires come into it?

Connecting this device at the breaker box inside the Big Horn *should* measure everything coming from the shore power, right?!

= )
 

2010augusta

Well-known member
Here is the breaker box the far left breaker is the main trailer breakers
DSCN9769.JPG
 

2010augusta

Well-known member
It is labeled as such, but I do not trust the labels. We lost one leg of power when our transfer relay malfunctioned last week, and every other break was affected, so according to the breakers the tank heaters should not have been working but they were. I checked into it a little further and the "fireplace" breaker is the real breaker for the tank heaters. I don't know what is on the other circuit.

On edit: the tank heater breaker cuts power to the washer/dryer, so now I need to find was is on the "washer/dryer" circuit.

After a brief heart-attack, I have found the the dryer IS on the washer/dryer breaker, and the washer is on a separate breaker.

What does the fireplace circuit do if you don't have a fireplace? do I have a live wire the is terminated in a junction box?
 
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lwmcguir

Well-known member
Alan, Thanks for the reply. We will have to do the same thing when we head out in a couple of weeks or so. I like to have them labeled correctly. I have had the fireplace and a 1500 watt heater going in the LR plugged into the island outlet and haven't tripped a breaker. Interesting comments about the heaters and empty tanks. If the Thermostats work correctly you don't need liquid in the tanks. At least we didn't on our other SOB in the past. Sure a lot of info on the forums. Some very interesting.
 

Natesi

Active Member
Yeah baby -- i think i'm in business!!!

Here is the breaker box the far left breaker is the main trailer breakers
DSCN9769.JPG

Thanks man; you guys are awesome!

So, if I measure everything coming into those two 50-amp breakers, I'm measuring all power consumption from the shore, right? The inverter is hooked up AFTER the breaker box, I'm assuming.

Also, is each unit/"pair" of breakers a phase (looks like there's two breakers per breaker "unit")?

And the breaker box is accessed from inside the Big Horn?
 

2010augusta

Well-known member
So, if I measure everything coming into those two 50-amp breakers, I'm measuring all power consumption from the shore, right? The inverter is hooked up AFTER the breaker box, I'm assuming.

Correct, The converter is just pluged into one of the 30Amp outlets in the basement.

Also, is each unit/"pair" of breakers a phase (looks like there's two breakers per breaker "unit")?

Correct again, each unit(pair of breakers) is on a different phase. so units 1,3,5,and 7 are on + phase and units 2,4,6, and 8 are on - phase.

And the breaker box is accessed from inside the Big Horn?

The breaker box is in the base of a cabinet inside.
 

Natesi

Active Member
So, if I measure everything coming into those two 50-amp breakers, I'm measuring all power consumption from the shore, right? The inverter is hooked up AFTER the breaker box, I'm assuming.

Correct, The converter is just pluged into one of the 30Amp outlets in the basement.

Also, is each unit/"pair" of breakers a phase (looks like there's two breakers per breaker "unit")?

Correct again, each unit(pair of breakers) is on a different phase. so units 1,3,5,and 7 are on + phase and units 2,4,6, and 8 are on - phase.

And the breaker box is accessed from inside the Big Horn?

The breaker box is in the base of a cabinet inside.

AWESOME!!!!!

YES!!! YEEEEESSSS!!!!!! This is so sweet!

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

This is a total kick a** solution -- I can't believe it!!
 
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SmokeyBare

Well-known member
Natesi,

Contact a local electrican... I'm sure the TED will do the job... your going to need to size the wire correctly based on how long a run its going to be from the Main Breaker Panel in the home. There will also need to be a Disconnect switch installed at the location you will plug in the RV cable. TED should be able to be installed inside this Disconnect box. That will record any power that flows from that source.

Good Luck !

Marv
 

branson4020

Icantre Member
Natesi,

Maybe a little off-topic but..
Before you go building a little RV park on the side of this house, have you looked into the legality of living there? If the property isn't zoned for multiple residences, then your skating on thin ice. I know the ordinance is not well enforced in some areas, but all it takes is one ****y neighbor...
 

Natesi

Active Member
Natesi,

Maybe a little off-topic but..
Before you go building a little RV park on the side of this house, have you looked into the legality of living there? If the property isn't zoned for multiple residences, then your skating on thin ice. I know the ordinance is not well enforced in some areas, but all it takes is one peavey neighbor...

True. But that's the nice thing about having a house on wheels. I'll just move if there's a problem.

= )

But in all seriousness, the people I'm working with have thought about that and said they were going to check with their neighbor to make sure they were OK with it.
 
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