Just got a 2009 Cyclone, have been finding more and more wrong as I go through it. I have not been able to get any hot water yet. I can get the system to ignite 12V, LP system and run for about 5 minutes then it shuts off and wont restart. I had to push the right reset button a couple times, but this last time it did not pop it. I went through all the trouble shooting procedures finding nothing wrong with the 12v switches, but no power to the 110v side of things. As I was sitting there testing the system with the secondary switch off, it ignited up again randomly. I have run water through the faucets hot and cold side. The hot side water pressure is a lot less than the cold faucet. I cant seem to figure out how to check to make sure that there is water in the water heater though? Winterization switch is pointing to normal operation.
No hot water, but the LP burner turns on and runs for about 5 minutes.
- Thread starter thoma16
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi thoma16,
To check for water in the water heater, with city water connected, open the pressure relief valve on the water heater. You should get some water. If still in doubt, make sure everything is cool, turn off city water, and use a 1-1/8" socket to remove the anode rod, which is also the drain. While it's out, inspect the rod; it may need to be replaced. You'll want teflon tape for when you put it back.
The secondary (rocker) switch in the bottom left corner of the water heater is only for the 110V operation, so it wouldn't inhibit the LP operation.
Did you use our Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide to check out the 110V operation? It also provides a little guidance on the LP operation, but sometimes it's better to pay a tech to work on LP problems. That said, the most common cause of intermittent operation on LP is inconsistent or poor gas pressure. Often this is a regulator problem.
To check for water in the water heater, with city water connected, open the pressure relief valve on the water heater. You should get some water. If still in doubt, make sure everything is cool, turn off city water, and use a 1-1/8" socket to remove the anode rod, which is also the drain. While it's out, inspect the rod; it may need to be replaced. You'll want teflon tape for when you put it back.
The secondary (rocker) switch in the bottom left corner of the water heater is only for the 110V operation, so it wouldn't inhibit the LP operation.
Did you use our Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide to check out the 110V operation? It also provides a little guidance on the LP operation, but sometimes it's better to pay a tech to work on LP problems. That said, the most common cause of intermittent operation on LP is inconsistent or poor gas pressure. Often this is a regulator problem.
I know for a fact the switch is turned to normal operation, not bypass (winterization). I'm thinking I dont have water in the tank. I havent hooked up the city connection at all since We will be camping without that this weekend. I will have my fresh tank filled and thats it. Will hook it up to city connection tonight and test that. How does the hot water tank fill when the fresh tank is filled?
danemayer
Well-known member
If the bypass valves are in the normal position, and you open a hot water faucet, and the pump is ON, and there's water in the fresh tank, you should get air for a while until the tank fills and water eventually gets to the faucet. If you got water immediately, either the tank is bypassed and cold water is going though the hot lines, or the water heater was full.
The city water and pump output lines are teed together near the pump, before water gets to the water heater. So if the pump is pulling water out of the fresh tank, it's the same as being on city water. The faucets and hot water heater don't know the difference.
If you run the water heater on 110V with no water in the water heater, the electric heating element will burn out very quickly.
If you look at our Water Systems Guide, page 6 has a drawing of a typical water system, showing bypass valves, etc.
The city water and pump output lines are teed together near the pump, before water gets to the water heater. So if the pump is pulling water out of the fresh tank, it's the same as being on city water. The faucets and hot water heater don't know the difference.
If you run the water heater on 110V with no water in the water heater, the electric heating element will burn out very quickly.
If you look at our Water Systems Guide, page 6 has a drawing of a typical water system, showing bypass valves, etc.
I have a 2009 Cyclone, if you are talking about the Normal/Winterization valve on the UDC panel under the left basement or cargo door that has nothing to do with the hot water heater. That valve only redirects the suction side of the pump from the fresh water tank to a hose located behind the basement wall. You can stick the hose in a gallon of RV antifreeze and use the pump to run the stuff through the system. If your water heater is located next to the entry door then there is probably a cabinet door just inside the trailer, on mine its where the trash can goes. Open that door and with a flashlight look at the back of the water heater and you should see 3 valves, 1 on the hot water line from the heater, 1 on the cold line to the heater and one on a cross over pipe between the hot and cold lines. Make sure that the valves are open on the lines going to and from the water heater and the one on the cross over is closed. To answer your other question the 12v pump fills the water heater from the fresh water tank when not hooked up to city water.
When you winterize your coach at the end of the season you will want to close the valves to the water heater and open the one on the cross over pipe so you don't run antifreeze into the water heater. To winterize the water heater all you have to do is pull the anode rod and drain the water out of the tank.
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