no power 12v or 110 on my pinehurst 2009 landmark..PINEHURST

[FATHERHEART3]

Went to set up my 2009 pinehursT LANDMARK ,opened my slides and opened canopy(AWNING) ,went outside for a minute and blew fuse to my rv..reset and looks like plug is arced..reset,turned off all fuses turned off 12v switch turned off all circuits charged battery and NOTHING 12VOLT OR 110 VOLT..COULD HEAR BUZZ BUT TRIPPED CIRCUIT SEVERAL TIMES..I GIVE UP!!CAN ANYONE HELP ME PLEASE..CANT FIND ANY ANSWERS ON THE FORUM...THANK YOU..WHAT CAN I DO TO EVEN MANUALLY ROLL UP AWNING AND ROLL IN SLIDES..
THANKS
WENDELL
fatherheart3

 

[PUG]

If plug arched you probably need a new plug and redo wires in it if applicable. There should be additional fuses in your front basement that need reset. You can take care of the plug problem first and then start working from there with a multi meter seeing where the juice stops.

 

[cookie]

More info needed.
Did you plug into an RV park pedestal?
Or a known good pedestal?
Do you have some sort of surge protector that will identify a bad pedestal?

Peace
Dave

 

[danemayer]

Hi fatherheart3,

I'm having a little trouble following your description. But it sounds like maybe the power cord arced where you have it plugged in, and tripped the circuit breaker for the pedestal. The first question is about the power source. What do you have it plugged into? Have you checked that with a voltmeter? Is the cord securely attached to the RV?

If you have generator/generator prep, the incoming 110V is routed to a transfer switch that's usually located behind the basement wall, near the water pump. You could be losing power there.

The 110V circuit breaker panel probably has 2 50amp breakers on the left side. If they tripped, no power gets to anything else.

The loss of 12V inside the coach could be related. There's a 12V automotive style manual-reset circuit breaker located near your battery. If that trips, and you don't have shore power, any of your 12V devices that go through the fusebox won't operate even though the battery is charged. Our 12V Block Diagram & Diagnostic Guide has more info, including diagrams and pictures that will help you locate and reset this breaker.

There are manual procedures for retracting slides and awning. Here's a link to one of the Lippert docs that shows the manual procedure for the slides. Basically, you use a drill with a long hex bit to manually operate the hydraulic pump. You'll probably also need to use an allen wrench to manually operate the valve for each slideout. Here's a link to the awnings documents in the manuals section of the forum. The manuals describe how to manually retract. There may have been a strap/tool included with your documentation pouch.

 

[FATHERHEART3]

Still trying to find the problem ..thanks for the answers..

 

[FATHERHEART3]

What does the transfer switch look like..could the switch inside for the generator be tripped..dont have a generator installed..

 

[wdk450]

What does the transfer switch look like..could the switch inside for the generator be tripped..dont have a generator installed..

On my Bighorn the transfer switch is a phenolic box about 6 inches square mounted to the wooden floor in the utilities crawlspace near the power converter. It should have 3 power cables (1 input from shore power cord - 2 Input from generator wiring - 3 Output to breaker panel) connected to it. Inside is a 3 contact large relay. With ALL AC power sources to the trailer disconnected you can file and/or spray (using a quality contact cleaner/restorer) the contact surfaces if you think that is the problem.

AC power on the generator cable causes the relay to switch from its normal connection from the shore cable to the breaker box TO the generator cable connected to the breaker box (and the shore cable disconnected).

If this does not fix the problem you can check if your shore power wiring is OK by putting a TEMPORARY short between the hot and neutral wires at the shore power wiring on the transfer switch and measuring for continuity at the shore power plug. REMOVE THE JUMPER BEFORE CONNECTING TO LIVE AC POWER.

 

[FATHERHEART3]

will give it a try..how do i know what wire is what..thax

 

[wdk450]

Inside the top of my transfer switch has wiring diagram. Bare or green wires are ground (should not have voltage on them) White wires are Neutral, connected to ground inside the service pedistal, and therefore have very little or no voltage on them. The other 2 wires (L1 and L2 Hots) in an RV 50 amp service can both be black or 1 black and 1 red. An AC voltmeter should read 120 volts from either hot to ground or neutral.
Say, where are you in California? I'm in Sacramento, have loads of free time, and willing to help. PM me if this sounds possible.

 

[FATHERHEART3]

Still trying to solve my power problem..If my couch was ordered with a gen prep but i never installed one does it have a tranfer switch that could be the problem..
if not are there any other solutions..

ARE THERE OTHER SOLUTIONS WITHOUT A TRANSFER SWITCH..THAX

 

[danemayer]

If your coach came with generator prep it has a transfer switch regardless of whether the generator was ever installed.

 

[FATHERHEART3]

Help

 

[TedS]

Please tell us what you are/were plugged in to when the power in the trailer failed.
How do you know that your battery was charged?
What plug arced?
Does your power source have proper power? 120vac leg one to neutral, 120vac leg two to neutral, zero volts neutral to ground.

 

[danemayer]

Hi FATHERHEART3,

It sounds like you haven't checked out the transfer switch yet. You need to take down the basement wall, remove the top cover from the transfer switch, and check to see if there's any power getting to the switch, and getting through it.

And of course, before you take the trailer apart, you should verify correct voltages at the power pedestal.

You can check the transfer switch with a voltmeter, but for the purposes of this test, you might want to pick up a Non Contact Voltage Tester from a hardware store. Skip the $10 models and spend $20. With the box cover removed (one hex nut), holding the Non Contact Tester near the wires will show you which wires are hot and which are not. The wiring diagram for the transfer switch is on the inside of the cover. Each set of connections has 3 large wires. The middle is NEUTRAL and the left and right are HOT 1 and HOT 2. Bare copper ground wires are routed to a small buss bar on the side wall of the transfer switch. The HOT 1 and HOT 2 wires should light up the tester where shore power comes in. Where the load wires go to the circuit breaker panel, HOT 1 and HOT 2 wires should also light up.

It's no fun working on the transfer switch (don't ask me how I know), and there are skill and safety issues. If high-current electrical devices are beyond your expertise, you may instead want to take the rig to a local dealer or have a mobile service guy come out to work on it for you.

 

[priorguy]

Maybe even call in a licensed electrician. If you're full timing you definitely want this fixed ASAP.


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[FATHERHEART3]

Got my 12 volts going..have a problem with 120..when testing my converter it 120 on both sides plus 120 at common ,,what is wrong,,thax

 

[danemayer]

Got my 12 volts going..have a problem with 120..when testing my converter it 120 on both sides plus 120 at common ,,what is wrong,,thax

I'd suggest you call a licensed electrician.

 

[wdk450]

Got my 12 volts going..have a problem with 120..when testing my converter it 120 on both sides plus 120 at common ,,what is wrong,,thax

The converter/charger should plug into a standard 110 volt, 15 amp outlet in the basement. Unplug it, plug in a 3 light electrical outlet tester (sometimes called a "monkey face") to verify your problem or use a voltmeter/resistance meter. Hot (120 volts AC to ground) on the small blade slot, Neutral (1 volt AC or less to ground) the large blade slot, Ground (0 volts and near 0 ohms resistance) from the D shaped hole to a good chassis ground. Hot slot to neutral slot should measure 120 volts AC.
If you had hot (120 volts to ground) on both the normally hot and neutral slots to groun d(assuming they are the same AC phase) the converter (or any other 120 volt AC device) would not work. The neutral would not measure less than 1 volt AC to ground. If you somehow have 2 different AC phases on your hot and neutral blades, your hot to neutral measurement would be 220 volts, and would blow out any 110 volt AC device connected to that outlet.

 

[FATHERHEART3]

Got my 12v working(tripped reset) but shore power does not work.Checked the wiring on ats and have 120volts to l1 and l2 and also at white common..I am puzzeled..By the way will the tv or air run just off of the 12v when inverter works properly..Thank you for all of the info..

 

[wdk450]

Got my 12v working(tripped reset) but shore power does not work.Checked the wiring on ats and have 120volts to l1 and l2 and also at white common..I am puzzeled..By the way will the tv or air run just off of the 12v when inverter works properly..Thank you for all of the info..

1. Start at the beginning: Do you have that reading of 120 volts at L1 and at L2 to ground, along with neutral reading 120 volts to ground at the "shore" power (park pedistal) outlet with the RV unplugged from it? If yes, there is a wiring error on that outlet that needs to be fixed by an electrician. If NO, then wiring in your trailer is misconnected. Get back to me on this and I will help you further.
2. As far as I know the TV's used in Heartland RV's run 120 volts AC ONLY. The "Air" is a little more complex since it consists of a heating furnace AND a cooling Air Conditioner run by the same thermostat. The thermostat control for both the Air Conditioning and Furnace (shared) is a 12 volt DC circuit. The furnace has a 12 volt DC fan motor, and the propane supply valve for the furnace is controlled by 12 volts DC (just like the propane supplies for the refrigerator and gas water heater). Air conditioning cooling requires quite a lot of energy, and so the air conditioner cooling compressor and circulation fan run on 120 volts AC.

I hope this helps. Sorry I can't be there in person.