Norcold 2118X Refrigerator Self Destructed
- Thread starter 'Lil Guy'
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Don't forget there's some significant extra cost for the electrical components necessary for the refrigerator to run on battery power.
danemayer
Well-known member
Frank,
Gas absorption refrigerators these days mostly sit in a slideout where ventilation is problematic, even with cooling fans. And they've gotten larger over the years. In hot climates they can struggle to maintain good inside temps.
Residential refrigerators are larger, which can be advantageous. But if replacing a Norcold unit, you'll probably be limited to something that fits the same space.
As long as residential refrigerators have power, they seem to cool effectively. I don't recall ever seeing a complaint about how well they function (outside of a handful of failures). On the other hand, search for Norcold or Dometic problems and you'll find an enormous number of people who have had one problem or another.
To provide power for a day of towing, you'll definitely need 2 good Group 27 or larger batteries. As for components and wiring, you can get a better idea from the block diagram in our Residential Refrigerator user guide, in this folder.
Gas absorption refrigerators these days mostly sit in a slideout where ventilation is problematic, even with cooling fans. And they've gotten larger over the years. In hot climates they can struggle to maintain good inside temps.
Residential refrigerators are larger, which can be advantageous. But if replacing a Norcold unit, you'll probably be limited to something that fits the same space.
As long as residential refrigerators have power, they seem to cool effectively. I don't recall ever seeing a complaint about how well they function (outside of a handful of failures). On the other hand, search for Norcold or Dometic problems and you'll find an enormous number of people who have had one problem or another.
To provide power for a day of towing, you'll definitely need 2 good Group 27 or larger batteries. As for components and wiring, you can get a better idea from the block diagram in our Residential Refrigerator user guide, in this folder.
travelin2
Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Couple of things...if you ever boondock you’ll need some solar or plan on running a generator periodically during the day to maintain batteries. Residential fridge will drain your batteries in less than a day.
Additionally, while the RV fridge is installed to expel heat generated by cooling to the outdoors, all heat from a residential remains in the coach. IMO that’s additional air to cool in already hot weather.
Someone that has can maybe update what needs done with the existing grills; I’m thinking they need blocked to prohibit any water entry??
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RoadJunkie
Well-known member
Keep in mind that there are significantly more gas absorption style refrigerators that been installed in RVs for many, many, years and thus more failures/inefficiency based on the sheer numbers of product. Residential refrigerators are a relatively recent addition to RVs and seem to be desirable in the niche of larger 5th wheels, and motor homes, that would likely be connected to sustained shore power. Unlike units specifically designed for RV use, residential units have not been designed with an effective mounting system and door locks that accommodates the motion of a rolling RV; hence the term residential. So, be sure to take extra care in securing components For travel if you proceed with the conversion.
JohnD
Moved on to the next thing...
Ain't that the truth!
My Norcold is in a slide and when I got back three weeks ago to Yuma after that seven week long trip that included the Pueblo HOC Rally, we had a stretch of 115+ degree days and I still had the Prowler parked out front of the house trying to unload it (got up to 130+ degrees inside the Prowler as I was plugged in to 15 amps, so no AC), but I was trying to keep some water in my Norcold refer while I was still working in it, and even though I had the thermister thingy in the spot to make it the coldest, that last day I had the fridge on the coldest it could keep it was 95 degrees inside the fridge.
Electric or gas...tried them both!
So I just shut it off...and left the doors propped open, of course!
Chippendale
Well-known member
Frank, FWIW, I am on my 2nd, actually 3rd residential refrigerator. The first one in the Gateway died after a only a few months, don't know if it was because it was in an RV, or if it would have died sitting in the house. The one in my Landmark has been a real experience, if you will remember it "bounced" out of the slide on my way home from our camp out at Lake Proctor which really freaked me out. Not sure exactly what caused that, but it turns out that there was a defective shock absorber which may have caused it to bounce and break away from the very "flimsy" bracket that was holding it in place. Much stronger bracket now and also a new shock, so as far as i know there are no more problems of that type. But I am noticing that two of the upper glass shelves are bending down a little bit in front (which may be from the weight of the items bouncing up and down) and when I open it the first time after traveling, have to be real careful as I have had stuff fall out and most of the time everything in it has shifted around a good bit. In my opinion, these residential units are not engineered to bounce down the road loaded with food. If I were in the market for a new trailer, I think I would strongly consider going back to the standard RV gas/elect ref. Just my experiences.
'Lil Guy'
Well-known member
My Norcold was up to date and the burnt wire issues is due to a broken propane line on the refer. Needless to say, Norcold declined the claim since it was up to date wdith corrections. Been turned over to my extended warranty service policy. High dollar with $50.00 deductible. Waiting on their response to get it replaced. Should know soon. Hopefully this shouldn't be a problem. The service company talked to them and said it sounds like everything is OK but you never know.
Chippendale
Well-known member
I'll keep my fingers crossed for ya.
avvidclif
Well-known member
I don't know of any fridge designed to bounce down the road. My N'ercold after a trip is always opened very carefully and slowly to catch the strays that fall out.
The Dometic I had in the last RV wouldn't stay up in Texas heat. It would be 55-60 deg when it got hot outside. I fussed and fumed at Dometic and all they said was we guarantee the performance only to 95 deg. Not 110. I then asked why they sold them in Texas and never got a reply. Duh.
The Dometic I had in the last RV wouldn't stay up in Texas heat. It would be 55-60 deg when it got hot outside. I fussed and fumed at Dometic and all they said was we guarantee the performance only to 95 deg. Not 110. I then asked why they sold them in Texas and never got a reply. Duh.
danemayer
Well-known member
Clif,
Years ago I heard about the Dometic fan kit for the RM1350. Dometic offered to sell it to me. After they made that offer, our conversation went something like this:
"Are Dometic refrigerators designed to keep food from spoiling and making me sick?"
"Yes".
"Do you sell these refrigerators in Texas?"
"Yes"
"So are Dometic refrigerators sold in Texas designed to keep food from spoiling and making me sick?"
"Yes"
"I live in Texas and my Dometic refrigerator is not working correctly. Would you like to send me the fan kit at no charge to keep me healthy?"
"Yes"
'Lil Guy'
Well-known member
From bad news to worse. Norclold declined the fire claim due to a broken LP line to refer. Turned claim into my Mastertech service policy and they declined to honor their contract since it looked like the line was cut. I went ballistic with them after that. It's like they are accusing me of cutting the line. Feeling a little low at this point. Think I'll get a refund on the balance of the policy since they won't help with it. I've now turned it over to USAA which covers both of our vehicles and the Bighorn. They are sending an inspector out to RV Station to look at it on Monday. I guess I'll change my name to Munson. I certainly hope they'll honor it for me. $500.00 deductible sure meets $5K.lol I'll keep you posted. This Baker's luck is getting old.
RoadJunkie
Well-known member
You may try getting your own Subject Matter Expert—a professional that is experienced with your type of failure—to refute the opinion of your warranty company. Have the SME officially write their opinion on company letterhead and submit it to the claim manager. Resist going “ballistic” as dealing with warranty claims may be a patient, time consuming, process. Or submit the claim to your insurance company, as you have planned, and have them seek reimbursement from the warranty company.
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