North Trail water heater, oven and black tank

shevy

Member
Ok, I bought a new north trail 33 buds and first off, the manual for it is horrible. It seems like they print a one size fits all manual for all heartland models. However, the manual has nothing in it about the water heater. My first trip with it last weekend found that the water heater didn't work with propane, electric only. Second, the oven wouldn't lite and of course, the owners manual has nothing in it to help. last, my model has two dump tanks but they are both labeled grey but the manual indicates there should be pull handles for both grey and black. The water heater is an atwood which according to the dealer is low quality. any feedback as to what I should look for on both the water heater and oven not igniting?
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi shevy,

If you can't light either the oven or water heater on propane, that begs the question of whether there's any propane flowing to the appliances.

Can you light the burners on the stovetop? if not, close your propane tanks, wait 10 seconds. Re-open the valves verrrry slowly. There's an overflow protection device that can activate if you open the valve quickly. And of course, don't assume the dealer put any propane in the tanks. They're supposed to, but you never know.

You may have a pull handle for the black tank somewhere along the frame. Every once in a while, the handle works its way loose and falls off a new unit. If you don't see a pull handle, look for a metal rod that's threaded on the end.

Btw, I don't know why your dealer would prefer Suburban Water Heaters to Atwood units. The function and quality is about the same.
 

shevy

Member
Hi shevy,

If you can't light either the oven or water heater on propane, that begs the question of whether there's any propane flowing to the appliances.

Can you light the burners on the stovetop? if not, close your propane tanks, wait 10 seconds. Re-open the valves verrrry slowly. There's an overflow protection device that can activate if you open the valve quickly. And of course, don't assume the dealer put any propane in the tanks. They're supposed to, but you never know.

You may have a pull handle for the black tank somewhere along the frame. Every once in a while, the handle works its way loose and falls off a new unit. If you don't see a pull handle, look for a metal rod that's threaded on the end.

Btw, I don't know why your dealer would prefer Suburban Water Heaters to Atwood units. The function and quality is about the same.


There is propane as the stove works but not the oven or the water heater.
 

jerryjay11

Well-known member
Does your oven have a pilot. Mine does.

Good chance the extended drain handles fell off. When I got my TT home I found they were there but not even finger tight so I grab wrench and loctite to fix.
 

shevy

Member
Does your oven have a pilot. Mine does.

Good chance the extended drain handles fell off. When I got my TT home I found they were there but not even finger tight so I grab wrench and loctite to fix.

Well, if the owners manual from Heartland resembled anything like what I bought (north trIl 33 buds) perhaps I’d know the answer to your question. I believe it has the ignition spark like a gas grill does but even when I try to ignite the oven to get a pilot light, nothing. Also, you were spot on, when I picked up my rv from the dealer a couple weeks ago to de-winterize it, not only did they not drain the hot water lines, but they didn’t screw on the gray tank release handle.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Well, if the owners manual from Heartland resembled anything like what I bought (north trIl 33 buds) perhaps I’d know the answer to your question. I believe it has the ignition spark like a gas grill does but even when I try to ignite the oven to get a pilot light, nothing. Also, you were spot on, when I picked up my rv from the dealer a couple weeks ago to de-winterize it, not only did they not drain the hot water lines, but they didn’t screw on the gray tank release handle.
Most RV ovens (except Furrion) do not have direct spark ignition. On most, you have to turn the oven knob, press it in and hold it, and light the pilot. The flame from your lighter or match ignites the pilot, but the thermocouple has to get hot enough to signal the gas valve to keep the gas flowing to the pilot. After the pilot lights, you may have still depress the oven knob for 10-15 seconds to heat the thermocouple. With the pilot lit, and thermocouple warm, the oven knob can be rotated to a temp setting that ignites the main burner
 

wdk450

Well-known member
If you can find the make of the stovetop/oven, there should be a manual on the "Tools" tab at the top of any forum page, then "Manuals" "appliances" and "ovens" in the submenus.

The lighting procedure for the ovens can be very tricky, even if you have done it before. Have a butane long probe lighter at the ready, open the oven door, put the oven control in the "Pilot" position, press in and HOLD the oven control FOR A FULL 60 SECONDS before attempting to light the pilot while still holding IN the oven control knob. It seems to take a LONG time for the gas to get flowing to the pilot, and since it flows so little propane, there is little danger in waiting 60 seconds before trying lighting. Once you see or hear the pilot flame lit, CONTINUE HOLDING IN THE OVEN CONTROL KNOB FOR ANOTHER 60 SECONDS. The pilot sensor bulb needs to heat up sufficiently to keep the pilot flame going on its own. If you let go of the knob too soon in any step, you get to start all over from the beginning.

Frankly, I use a tabletop electric convection oven/broiler/rotisserie instead of the gas oven.

If it were me, I might keep trying to get the water heater lit on propane maybe 10 to 20 times before I give up on it. There may be a lot of air in the propane line to the heater, and each attempt to light will not purge much of that air for the pilot light. Also listen very carefully when you attempt to light the water heater. You should be able to hear the electric sparking noises as the water heater attempts to light. I hear that with my Suburban water heater if I listen closely. Also, you might check the 12 volt fuses to see if possibly the 12 volt line to the water heater that generates the sparks, and controls the gas flow valve is there.

Either Heartland service your your selling dealer should have the info on your dump valve handle for your model. If you call Heartland service, have your VIN available for things, as that is the way the files are kept.

Remember that you paid a substantial portion of your purchase price towards warranty repairs, and that Heartland will allow you to get warranty service from any RV servicer you choose, with prior authorization from them. If you can find an independent RV servicer (no RV sales) you will most likely get better service. Heartland keeps lists of independent servicers they have worked with in your area, or you could look at RVServiceReviews.com.
 
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