Poor Bearing Condition on New LM

[rxbristol]

Well, after my experience on the inadequate shocks on my new Landmark (only miles are from factory to Wichita Falls, TX), I got concerned about what type of bearings were installed and their condition. I've repacked the two left wheels so far and here are pictures of what I've found:

Etching and pitting on the outer bearing, left rear. There was also a pit inclusion on the inner hub race:



Burn marks on the bearing inner race, left front--I don't know if this is a problem or not. Other than that, the bearings and races looked good:



I've installed Timken bearings and races. The wheels seemed to have the correct tension on the bearings, but there was an excessive amount of grease in the center of the hub--almost like someone installed the bearings dry and then used the Zert fitting to pack the bearings. I know that excessive grease can hinder heat dissipation. I actually read of this type of installation procedure in a service manual. It looked like the outer bearing on the left rear wheel was inadequately lubed.

I'll get to the right side next weekend--a little hot here at 100 degrees today.

 

[MTPockets]

I think you're right; it sounds as if the bearing wasn't packed before installing. Burn marks indicate heat. = poor installation; someone at Dexter trying to cut corners.

 

[scottyb]

My experience with Dexter Axle has been stellar. I bet if you called them with your VIN, they would help you out. They shipped me a whole new hub and brake assembly because one of the adjuster spring broke and caused some drum damage. I was already out of warranty.

 

[rxbristol]

I'm sure they would, but like the shocks, I want to upgrade so I've taken on the project myself. I've posted my results in case someone else may be concerned about their bearings.

 

[Jim.Allison]

Those bearing looked like there were seized. The scorch marks are unusual. As far as lubrication is concerned, it is hard to overheat an bearing assembly with too much grease. The hub is designed to purge old grease by pushing all the grease out of the hub with the new grease. The nature of the hub and lube system is to be full.

As a side note. You should research, if you dont believe me, but the proper grease is an Extreme Pressure (EP) wheel bearing grease. You should look for a "red" EP. Using a red EP allows you to see when the old grease is purged from the system. Also you need to look for name brand EP wheel bearing grease. They sell to the pros in trucking, mining and manufacturing industries.They have developed their greases for performance and to maintain their properties even when you braks induce heat into your hubs. You have 15000 (+ or -) LBS on four axles. Walmart wheel bearing grease ain't gonna do it for ya, neither is boat trailer wheel bearing grease, although it has some good properties that you might want to investigate in a name brand EP wheel bearing grease. Generic bearings are no good either. It's Timken, SKF or Koyo, or one of the other old and proven bearing names, that will do the job for you. Timken is my choice. BTW, I think I saw where Dexter has a list of EP greases listed in their technical papers. I will try to locate and post.

good luck and thanks for posting, you reminded me how important this lube job is and I have been putting it off.

Well, after my experience on the inadequate shocks on my new Landmark (only miles are from factory to Wichita Falls, TX), I got concerned about what type of bearings were installed and their condition. I've repacked the two left wheels so far and here are pictures of what I've found:

Etching and pitting on the outer bearing, left rear. There was also a pit inclusion on the inner hub race:

View attachment 30846

Burn marks on the bearing inner race, left front--I don't know if this is a problem or not. Other than that, the bearings and races looked good:

View attachment 30847

I've installed Timken bearings and races. The wheels seemed to have the correct tension on the bearings, but there was an excessive amount of grease in the center of the hub--almost like someone installed the bearings dry and then used the Zert fitting to pack the bearings. I know that excessive grease can hinder heat dissipation. I actually read of this type of installation procedure in a service manual. It looked like the outer bearing on the left rear wheel was inadequately lubed.

I'll get to the right side next weekend--a little hot here at 100 degrees today.

 

[Jim.Allison]

Link to Dexter Axle Lubrication guide. The guide gives you the specifications and product names for the greases we should be using. The first one is Conoco / Phillips "red" lithium complex. There are many red wheel bearing greases. The red is a marker so you can tell when the bearing has been purged.

http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/6-8K_Service_Manual_9-12/Hubs_Drums_and_Bearings_9-12.pdf

 

[cookie]

Walmart wheel bearing grease ain't gonna do it for ya, neither is boat trailer wheel bearing grease, although it has some good properties that you might want to investigate in a name brand EP wheel bearing grease. Generic bearings are no good either.

Actually Walmart does sell some of the grease listed by Dexter as approved for use.
I have been using Mystic (sold by Walmart) for years across a couple of trailers, generic bearings and all.
And I do put on a lot of miles.

Peace
Dave

 

[Jim.Allison]

Im glad my satire was not lost on you.........Mystic is a good choice, I will be looking for some soon and I'm glad to know I can get a couple of tubes at WallyWorld.

http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/614960...rings_9-12.pdf

Actually Walmart does sell some of the grease listed by Dexter as approved for use.
I have been using Mystic (sold by Walmart) for years across a couple of trailers, generic bearings and all.
And I do put on a lot of miles.

Peace
Dave

 

[rxbristol]

Thanks for the input, Jim. I decided to use CV-2, a synthetic, high-performance, extreme pressure grease with red moly.

 

[jbeletti]

Here's a link to a YouTube video by Dexter on how to replace/grease the bearings. I know Rex doesn't need this, but I found it interesting as may others.

 

[rxbristol]

Here's a link to a YouTube video by Dexter on how to replace/grease the bearings. I know Rex doesn't need this, but I found it interesting as may others.

Great video...one of the better ones that I've seen.

Rex

 

[greatwhitenorth]

That brg has spun on the spindle, what does the spindle look like?

 

[rxbristol]

The spindle looks shiny and new.

 

[porthole]

That brg has spun on the spindle, what does the spindle look like?

Cheap, imported bearings can look like that out of the box.

 

[rxbristol]

Now that I've finished replacing all the bearings and races, almost all the bearings had the "scorch" marks on the bearing inside race. After reading a service manual that showed dry assembly and then zert packing, I theorize that the issues comes in by the way the bearings are originally assembled...I believe they are assembled dry and "packed" using the zert fitting. The zert fitting and spindle grease tube are full of grease. This does not allow any grease between the bearing and spindle until the grease has had some time to work its way to this area. This leads to excessive heat until that happens.

I had one bad bearing and one bad race...just enough to make for one bad day down the road.