Poor Man's 6 point level up system?

[Garypowell]

I have read many posts about the hydraulic 6 point level system but in reality I don’t know much about the system. But it would seem to me one of the biggest advantages would be having a rock solid unit when parked. Leveling an RV is not really that big of a deal….at least in my experience…. it only takes a matter of minutes to realize you are leaning to the left or the right and to put some blocks under the appropriate wheels. And front to back is simply raising or lowering the front landing gear.

Maybe I am jumping to a conclusion here (and correct me if I am wrong) but the big advantage of the hydraulic 6 point level system must be that it raises the coach up off of the springs giving the stability we all desire. My opinion of why our rigs rock and roll so much is that the same suspension that eases the bounces when we are going 60 MPH is the same thing that bounces when we walk around inside at 0 MPH. There are many solutions on the aftermarket that claim they stop all this movement. But as anyone can see from the posts on this site many people don’t seem to get the relief they seek. I have tried a couple myself and I don’t get the results that were promised.

Some might have read my post from last weekend when I made an attempt to install some “almost never fail bushings”. I think I am going to be able to correct my mistake this weekend. But when I worked on the rig last weekend I used jack stands for the first time. I was simply amazed at how rock solid the unit was while working on it. I was at the unit yesterday working on some other mods getting ready to go full time when the house sells. I was taking a break and got to thinking about those jack stands. Why could I not purchase 2 more and put one set in front of the wheels and one set in back? This combined with my hydraulic front jacks…..would give me 6 points.

I am the first to admit that I think most anything is possible and even beyond that easy. But it would seem to me you pull onto a site and unhook like you always do. Have the rig reasonably level front to back and then simply lift up one side with two bottle jacks. Put the jack stands in place and let the unit down on them. Move to the other side and jack up that side of the unit in the same manner. On this side of the unit you’d have to have ready some sort of wedge (I am thinking of something like a wood splitting wedge or an axe head) and simply let the unit down to a level left to right position. This might put you out of front to back level….but you use the front hydraulic system to solve that problem. If the front Jacks have raised the unit off of a jack stand you simply raise up that side again and move (or insert) the wedge.

Please keep in mind (in this idea) that I am not raising the wheels off of the ground but rather putting a stable support under the frame thus taking the suspension out of play. The wheels should provide stability to the jack stands as they are still in firm contact with the ground once the coach is lowered. In fact I don't think the wheels would ever have to leave the ground in preforming this procedure.

Our current thought is that we will stay someplace for 2 – 4 weeks. The procedure above could not be more than 45 minutes of work…..which does not seem too much time to invest for a rock steady unit.

Certainly this idea could put some stress and strain on the frame…..but my assumption is that the 6 point system does the same. I also understand that one could "chase" lose jack stands forever.....but I would hope a steel wedge would limit this problem.

I am neither an engineer nor much of a mechanic (as I proved last weekend) but am curious what you all think of this idea?

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Gary, I agree with you! I added a set of scissors jacks in front of the tires that really makes a noticeable difference. Another set aft of the tires may be even better. On the door side I had to place the scissors jack just in front of the steps. I did this several years ago and use a driver drill to extend and retract making it fast and easy.
My thoughts on the jack stands are that they would work but take a bit longer to put in place. Add more weight to what we already carry and take up quite a bit of space. If I were to add another set of Scissors jacks, I would opt for the 30" size. I currently have the 24" and use a block under them. But they work.

 

[TravisJen]

I was thinking about trying to rig up a 6 point system as well and thought about taking 4 scissor jacks and placing them between the top of the axles and the frame. This is the same part of the frame that normally supports all the weight off the trailer anyhow so I cant see any harm in taking some weight off the springs. Leaving our truck hooked up also takes a lot off movement out off the trailer.

 

[Garypowell]

Ray....something else I am guilty about is over thinking a problem. I had discounted scissor jacks as I did not think they had enough oumph! (is that spelled correctly?) I guess I was only thinking in terms of the electric jack at the back of the unit....they always seem somewhat useless to me.

But since you brought it up....do you think scissor jacks are stronger (more firm is probably a better term) when they are half extended or when they get to fully extended.....or is there no difference? I ask this because in front of my tires are the stairs (fairly typical) and then there is the drop down of the frame.....that is where I put one of my jack stands last weekend.

My point here is that in the back the frame is higher off of the ground so would it be better to buy two different heights of jack stands?

And Ray, one more question, when you drill them into position does the frame actually move up (and if so how much?) or do they just snug under the frame and keep it from going any lower?

Thanks

 

[TandT]

I did the same as Ray. I have scissor jacks permanently mounted in front of the wheels.
I level the rig and deploy those last to firm it up. For a total of 6 jacks on the ground.
With the extra jacks and the JT Strongarms, it really takes the bounce out of the center of the rig.
If you end up getting them, be sure to order the tall ones. I believe they go to about (EDIT) 30" when extended.
As I recall, they are rated at 5k pounds each. Trace

 

[jbeletti]

I think we're talking about two things here:
- Leveling
- Stabilization

The scissor jacks Ray and others use really help to make the rig solid (i.e. stable). The LevelUp, Big Foot, Ground Control etc. are "leveling systems" capable of lifting the coach at the frame to level things out and stabilize at the same time.

Not sure the scissor style jacks are designed to lift the RV to level it. But, used in combination with leveling boards, blocks etc., I can see this as an inexpensive way to get level and stable. More work than pressing what I call the "Magic" button on the LevelUp, but it comes with a $4k+ price tag

 

[caissiel]

I Installed 2 7000 lbs scissor jacks behind the wheels and they can each lift the side.
But they will not stay up as they have bearings on the screw to make it easier to turn.
I am hopping the screw rust a bit so it holds.
Therefore to much weight causes the jacks to creep down.
Yes further extension allows jacks to lift much more. I use 24 inches jacks due to distance from frame to edge of trailer walls. 32 inches units need to be installed sideways or angled.

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[57chevyconvt]

Have you considered 4 small bottle jacks of sufficient tonnage and some 4X4 block standing to the end? You could fasten a 2X8 piece 8" long to the end of the 4X4 that contacts the ground by gluing and screws and then set the bottle jack on top of the 4x4, just a thought.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Ray....something else I am guilty about is over thinking a problem. I had discounted scissor jacks as I did not think they had enough oumph! (is that spelled correctly?) I guess I was only thinking in terms of the electric jack at the back of the unit....they always seem somewhat useless to me.

But since you brought it up....do you think scissor jacks are stronger (more firm is probably a better term) when they are half extended or when they get to fully extended.....or is there no difference? I ask this because in front of my tires are the stairs (fairly typical) and then there is the drop down of the frame.....that is where I put one of my jack stands last weekend.

My point here is that in the back the frame is higher off of the ground so would it be better to buy two different heights of jack stands?

And Ray, one more question, when you drill them into position does the frame actually move up (and if so how much?) or do they just snug under the frame and keep it from going any lower?

Thanks

Gary, not sure at what position they are stronger but I know they are rated for 5K (I'm guessing in pairs). With your frame style, I think 24" scissors in front and 30" scissors aft would be good.
When I "drill" them down, yes, I can see a bit of a rise in the frame. Once I know I'm as level as I want to be and all the stabilizers are deployed, I go around with a 3/4" gear wrench and do another half turn or so to all the stabilizers. I also think a good set of chocks are needed to add to the stability of the rig.

 

[TomSt]

bottle jacks will not support overnight. older ones would but the newer ones even state not to use for rv leveling! directions state to use jack stands also

 

[Garypowell]

Thanks all. I had not even thought of scissor jacks because of rear stabilizers. I'll do some looking around and see what prices I can find.

I do believe my idea of jack stands would be better but as Ray pointed it a lot of weight and space. Although I think I will take the pair I have for any repairs needed. I still have about 1,000 pounds of truck cargo left.

 

[caissiel]

Bought some on eBay for about $60 a pair, 3 years ago. Mine are 24 in. And rated for 7k. I can lift the side of the unit. They can level but I just use them to take the bounce out.

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