Poor quality circuit breakers

[NYSUPstater]

Started last year w/ our new BC 3560 SS and is on my to do list for 2019 for replacing them. Seems the breakers for the Hyd pump system are of poor quality for when retracting the slides (rear 2), they start to come in then stop. Wait few seconds, retract some more, stops. Have to keep repeating this until fully retracted. Move onto the jacks, same thing. Extending everything.....no problem, just retraction. My guess is that either the breakers are not HD enough or just plain cheap quality.

 

[jbeletti]

Here's a link to a breaker (50 amp auto-resetting) that is similar to what is used.

That said, I "believe" that Heartland is now using an 80 amp breaker. Here's a link to an 8- amp auto-resetting model.

When upgrading to the 80 amp breaker, you should consider upgrading the conductors connected to it to 2 AWG. When doing these upgrades, I've done it 2 ways.

1. Add breaker, run a 12" red cable from the left side of the bus bar to the breaker and run the cable from the hydraulic system to the breaker.

2. Add the breaker, run a 36" cable from the breaker to the battery. Run a 36" cable from the breaker to the hydraulic system.

Here's an example of a 2 AWG cable.

 

[travelin2]

Totally bypassed the OEM breakers and buss bar. Increased the cable size, added an in-line 60A breaker with disconnect, wired directly from battery to hydraulic pump motor.


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[Piperflyer]

Thanks for the info, my slides and jacks are just starting to slow down and stop & go on retraction. I will order all new circuit breakers and replace mine. My slides & jacks have gone through quite a few cycles, so upgrading the breakers now is probably a good idea. Really glad at times I belong to this forum.

 

[danemayer]

We have an owner-written Hydraulic Slide Starts and Stops user guide that may be helpful. It explains what's happening, outlines possible causes, and has pictures and instructions on how to replace the breaker.

Btw, when we continue to hold the switch after the slide or landing gear is fully extended or retracted, the motor lugs and pulls more power than usual. This heats up the trip mechanism in the breaker and probably weakens it. I think that may be a significant contributing factor to the start/stop problem.

 

[Piperflyer]

We have an owner-written Hydraulic Slide Starts and Stops user guide that may be helpful. It explains what's happening, outlines possible causes, and has pictures and instructions on how to replace the breaker.

Btw, when we continue to hold the switch after the slide or landing gear is fully extended or retracted, the motor lugs and pulls more power than usual. This heats up the trip mechanism in the breaker and probably weakens it. I think that may be a significant contributing factor to the start/stop problem.

Very helpful article explaining the causes of stop & start. I am probably going to replace my batteries also after three hard years of use. Thanks again for the info.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

All really good advice from these guys.
I would use a good high quality AUTO RESET breaker like this one.

Jerrod

https://www.delcity.net/catalogdetails?item=76408

 

[donr827]

Yes, be sure your current batteries are still good enough to do their job. Three years of hard work is a lot on some type of batteries.
Don

 

[sengli]

I had the same thing start to happen on my rig, after four years of no issues. Found the battery wasnt up to snuff, due to its age. replaced it and no more issues with the hydraulics operation.

 

[Piperflyer]

I had the same thing start to happen on my rig, after four years of no issues. Found the battery wasnt up to snuff, due to its age. replaced it and no more issues with the hydraulics operation.

I’m going to change my batteries out first, see what happens and then more than likely upgrade the breaker

 

[dave10a]

It should be noted that the wire size should match the breaker rating. 50 amp breakers should be 6 gauge while 80 amp breakers should be 2-4 gauge to be in complience.

 

[NYSUPstater]

Thanks all the GREAR replies gang!!! Sadly as I write this, the 'ol BC is in storage for the winter. I will however keep this thread in mind and probly call a place or two about replacement breakers. When our Creek did it, I just went to NAPAnoparts to get new breakers and no more problem.

 

[Nightshifter]

I replaced all of mine and added a buss bar.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

I replaced all of mine and added a buss bar.

Nice work. Looks like you had a fun project there.


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[Nightshifter]

I did and it made me feel a whole lot better.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

I did and it made me feel a whole lot better.

I like it.
What made you link the power wires from one breaker to the next instead of just pull each on from the Bus bar indaviualy ??
Just my curiosity.

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[RVFun4Us]

Simple question on replacing the 50 amp breaker to the Hydraulic Pump. Original breaker did not have a manual reset on the side. I replaced with a manual reset breaker a few months ago from my extra breakers. Is there a reason one should have a manual reset over an auto reset? My guess would be the auto reset would be the way to go on the hydraulic pump connection but wanted to know your opinions on this. Looked through the owners guide and it did not mention one preference over the other. Want to order some more so will wait until I get your responses. Thanks.

 

[LBR]

Just an FYI....our CY hydraulic circuit breaker would keep kicking out from day one. I bought a replacement 50A CB and replaced it....problem solved.

After replacement was done, checked the original and found "30A" stamped on it.....wrong breaker for that circuit from the factory.

Everyone with this symptom should buy a quality CB and replace it. In our case, the "80A upgrade" was not needed.

Anyone want to buy a perfectly good 30 amp breaker??....

 

[mlpeloquin]

Perhaps some information on circuit breakers is helpful to understand how loose the trip point is. This is do to how they function as a thermal device. I am including a thermal trip profile of a MIL Spec breaker, but all breakers are similar. They are affected by the ambient temperature as well as current. The device is to protect wiring not appliances. The curve shows at 25 degrees C it takes 138% of rated current to trip in 1000 seconds. To trip in one second it takes 600% of the rated current. I suspect commercial breakers are similar. With cooler or warmer ambient temperatures everything changes. Commercial breakers seem to have fewer trips before they shift out of specified ratings than MIl Spec breakers.

This is why Lippert can spec a 50 amp breaker for a 90 amp draw for a short run time without it tripping at least if the breaker is within it designed spec.

 

[wdk450]

Perhaps some information on circuit breakers is helpful to understand how loose the trip point is. This is do to how they function as a thermal device. I am including a thermal trip profile of a MIL Spec breaker, but all breakers are similar. They are affected by the ambient temperature as well as current. The device is to protect wiring not appliances. The curve shows at 25 degrees C it takes 138% of rated current to trip in 1000 seconds. To trip in one second it takes 600% of the rated current. I suspect commercial breakers are similar. With cooler or warmer ambient temperatures everything changes. Commercial breakers seem to have fewer trips before they shift out of specified ratings than MIl Spec breakers.

This is why Lippert can spec a 50 amp breaker for a 90 amp draw for a short run time without it tripping at least if the breaker is within it designed spec.

View attachment 61895

Does all of the above info apply to 12 VDC circuit breakers (involved in this topic), as well as 120 volt AC breakers?