Popping noise - I've had it checked by dealer

[SouthernNights]

If they think that will cure it I'd rather use Royal Purple, just about the same specs with years behind it on performance. Still not convinced it will change anything though.

. According to Carl Yoder at Lippert these are the only two additives they have tried. Even though the header on the memo looks funny it is from Lippert. Here is the one they sent me. .

This one mentions the Cat additive.

 

[hoopers2]

This is good news. I just got a 2013 Bighorn with the 6Point and hear the popping noise, sometimes severely. I was worried about what it was also. Now that I know it is just the system adjusting to temperature change, I feel better about the problem not being safety related.

It will be great if an additive fixes the problem. I hope Lippert comes out with something more official, something my dealer could adhere too and fix.

 

[marvmarcy]

After more than a year since this thread started, it is wonderful to finally have an answer that makes sense! Stiction is static friction between two objects trying to slide against each other. Apparently, Lippert hydraulic leveling cylinders have enough internal stiction that significant force, caused by expansion or contraction due to temperature change, is required to overcome that stiction. That force causes a significant sudden movement that can be heard and sometimes felt in the rv. Torco RFF 15 has antistiction properties (increased lubricity) that reduce stiction, reducing the force required to produce movement. This results in more frequent subtle movements that produce less noise and shaking. Torco RFF 15 should be available through your local motorsports dealer for less than $20/liter bottle.

 

[DougS]

If this fix works the problem, great, but I'm not throwing my plastic pads out yet. Can not get it though my head why the external plastic waffle pads eliminates the sound if it is indeed it is an internal problem. I'll be waiting for a formal notification from Lippert.

 

[mnkamper]

I've been waiting patiently for this! Glad to see some kind of progress on it and am really glad it's not a "take it apart and do something over" fix.
But, I see lots of Torco products on their webpage.... which do we use?

Motor Oils • Diesel Oils • Gear Oils • Transmission Fluids • Race Fuel Concentrate
4 Stroke Motor Oils • 2 Stroke Motor Oils Harley & V-Twin Oils • Transmission & Gear Oils
Snowmobile Oils • Watercraft Oils • Suspension Fluids • Service Products


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[murry135]

Tom and Kathy,

I believe they reference the Torco RFF #15 as the product needed.

Murry135

 

[mnkamper]

Thanks Murry135
Thats great...... I need to make sure I'm doing this right! Thats their RFF (Racing Fork Fluid)......and there's many different weights including a 10w and a 15w. A email from a Lippert Level Up tech said to use 10w though it looks like others use 15w. Torco is not easy to get here so if it's going to make a huge difference, I need to get the right one.
Any thoughts?

 

[Pizzaguy]

mnkamper-- I could not find it locally either. I ordered it off of Amazon.com. The tech I spoke with at Lippert said I could use either the 10 or 15 based on location. Hope this helps.

 

[mnkamper]

Thanks Pizzaguy!

 

[simsfmly]

A little lost, but I'm not that fluent in "tech things". Do I drain my current hydraulic fluid and put this stuff in???

 

[Pizzaguy]

Go back to post #132 and read the attachments

 

[funntheson]

Has anybody tried this yet? I don't see any feedback. Should I get 10W or 15W for use in a mostly hot climate?

 

[marvmarcy]

I think I will go with the heavier 15 wt because it should stay slightly better in the contact area in higher temperatures. I seldom see temps below freezing, but would probably use the lighter 10 wt if I stayed where it was cooler. The lighter weight wouldn't increase the hydraulic fluid viscosity quite as much, making it easier to pump at cooler temps. I also can't find it locally, even though there are several big motorsports dealers here (currently in CO Spgs). I've found it on line for $12 to $15 per liter bottle.

Marv

 

[KiwiRVer]

. According to Carl Yoder at Lippert these are the only two additives they have tried. Even though the header on the memo looks funny it is from Lippert. Here is the one they sent me. .

This one mentions the Cat additive.
View attachment 24409

Hi Larry, when I open your memo attachment it is too small to read, would you be able to email me a copy? Many thanks, Craig, (craig@wipath.com)

 

[SouthernNights]

Hi Larry, when I open your memo attachment it is too small to read, would you be able to email me a copy? Many thanks, Craig, (craig@wipath.com)

Craig,
The memo that is full size is the same thing that the attachment is. I couldn't get the attachment to open large enough to read it either once I posted it so I just copied and pasted it from my downloads.

 

[schog]

I purchased the rff15 from amazon powersport parts for 13.79 with free shipping

 

[hoopers2]

Well, my camper is new, and as it turns out, was WAY under-filled on reservoir hydraulic fluid. In fact so much, when I successfully completed an auto-level two days ago, on fairly uneven ground, the slides actually ran out of hydraulic fluid. Hence another call to Lippert. Lippert told me to add tranny fluid to fill it up, in addition to the 1 qt of Torco for my popping. They told me to slowly run the slides 5 or 6 times and that should get any air bubbles out.

I called Lippert several times, and the phone tech said to use either RFF 7 or RFF 10 (The torco sheet the Lippert tech emailed me was not clear on which one to use). He said it depends on what types of temps you typically camp in, be it cold weather or warmer weather. He thought 7-10 would be a good compromise. Now I am wondering if I should have used 15?


So besides adding Torco, I also had to add about 2 qts of tranny fluid (which is what Lippert told me to use). I still could add another qt, but decided to leave it at this level for now.

I will be camping this weekend, so will report back on any changes after using the Torco.

P.S. Also of note, when my reservoir ran empty, the tank looked like it had a bunch of sludge at the tank bottom. But I could have been wrong, as I didn't open the top and look down to the bottom.

 

[danemayer]

my camper is new, and as it turns out, was WAY under-filled on reservoir hydraulic fluid.

Keep an eye on the level over the summer to make sure you don't have a leak. Also take a look around the slides and jacks and below the reservoir for evidence of a leak.

 

[jbeletti]

I agree with Dan on this, keep a real good eye on your hydraulic fluid tank levels. I have never heard of these systems leaving as under-filled as you mentioned yours was - so the suspicion is that there may be a leak.

If your bedroom slide is hydraulic, under the bed is another place to check for leaking fluid. Over the years, I've heard of 2 people who've had pin-hole leaks in a weld at the end of an under-bed cylinder causing fluid leakage. Not fun as the carpet needed to be replaced too.

Look for sagging coruplast (underbelly material). Maybe even poke a small hole at any real low spots to see if anything runs out.

 

[hoopers2]

OK, thanks guys for the advice. I will mark the current fluid level with a sharpy, and keep an eye on it. I haven't see any fluids outside yet. My bedroom slide is electric, by the way.

I agree with Dan on this, keep a real good eye on your hydraulic fluid tank levels. I have never heard of these systems leaving as under-filled as you mentioned yours was - so the suspicion is that there may be a leak.

If your bedroom slide is hydraulic, under the bed is another place to check for leaking fluid. Over the years, I've heard of 2 people who've had pin-hole leaks in a weld at the end of an under-bed cylinder causing fluid leakage. Not fun as the carpet needed to be replaced too.

Look for sagging coruplast (underbelly material). Maybe even poke a small hole at any real low spots to see if anything runs out.