Problems with running fridge off the inverter

[Routemaster]

After installing my solar I thought I would now would run the fridge off the Magnum factory installed inverter been ok for a while... weeks maybe then yesterday the freezer rose to #7 so I switched back to shore power and she went back down to #0 after a hour or so, this morning now today she was back on solar and this fridge in the afternoon rose to #13 called Frigidaire and they suggested a hard reset, also back on shore power it back down to #0. Could there be a problem with the Magnum has any one had any problems?
Den.

 

[david-steph2018]

I would start with the batteries to see if these are maintaining a charge. Check the age and condition of the batteries.
Wonder if the solar system got tripped somehow and the batteries are not getting any charge from the solar.

 

[Routemaster]

Hey Dave.
The batteries are six brand new Lifepo4 100amp. Could it be that the power from the Magnum 1000 inverter be not as smooth as power out of the wall and that would cause it play around with the circuit boards?
Dave, also a few years ago in our Everest we popped the boards twice in a LG washer and see below the letter I received from LG this was using my Mag 2000 pure sine.
Den.

 

[Bogie]

As already stated, check the batteries. Low voltage would cause the inverter to shut down.

Does your inverter have a display of an kind? If yes, check for fault codes. This may help in diagnosis.
If not, there is little to tell what the inverter is doing other than on or off. Though not a preferred method, you could try connecting
a work light to the same plug as the refrigerator and monitor if the power fails. Unfortunately, that's a bit like
watching paint dry. On edit....Your last post says it's a Magnum 1000. It does have some diagnostic capibility.
See section 4 or the manual. You can download it here. https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/product-inverter/1000w-12vdc-pure-sine-inverter-csw-series

Does the refrigerator have any diagnostic capability? May show fault codes (loss of power) as well.

You can't ignore the transfer switch either. It is possible that it is making intermittent contact at times.

 

[david-steph2018]

Which transfer switch do you have installed? We had our dedicated transfer switch go out less than 2 years after buying our rig. I found a new one online for around $75.00.
With the batteries good, inverter good, look at the transfer switch.

Magnum CSW-TS15 15A Transfer Switch

The CSW-TS15 is a 15-amp AC transfer switch, automatically managing AC load connections between utility power (or generator) and the AC output of Magnum's CSW1012 inverter. Streamlining power transitions for efficient operation. Features: CSW Transfer Switch 15A Transfer Switch Automatically...

www.boatandrvaccessories.com

https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/sites/default/files/MagDocs/64-0064-Rev-A-CSW-TS15-Web.pdf

Another thought, the GFCI on the bottom of the inverter, check it as well. Some individuals had issues with the GFCI and replaced it with a regular outlet.

 

[taskswap]

The fridge doesn't know where its power comes from so if it runs properly on shore power but not on the inverter, and it runs at all (GFCI isn't popped if it does run sometimes) there are really only two explanations that make sense:

1. The inverter can't keep up. It could be under-powered for the fridge. However, I just replaced our Magnum 1000W (with a 4000W) and the new one has a built-in watt meter that says our Furrion is only drawing 240W when it runs. Share the model of your Magnum if you can. We might have the exact same unit, and it was more than enough to run our fridge (but we have different fridges).

A kill-a-watt meter to measure the fridge's draw, and/or a cheap voltmeter to watch the voltage the inverter is putting out, will answer this one quickly. Harbor Freight sells simple multimeters for $5. I firmly believe every RV owner should have one in their toolbox.

2. The batteries aren't as charged as you think they are. You have WAY too much battery capacity for a fridge to kill it. I only have 3x 100Ah batteries. I'm full-time on solar now and running one TV (about an hour a day), a fridge, two laptops, and our furnace (overnight lows are 40 here right now, so it runs, but not constantly) and that draws down my three batteries to about 45% overnight. I have a ton of system monitors so I know they're at last 97% before I go to bed (I don't go to 100% because it shortens the battery life).

This can happen even with no mechanical defect. Lithium ion batteries require special charging settings. And most have internal BMS's now that can override what the charger tries to put into them. If they're misconfigured you might be only at 80-85% by sundown, and depending on what else you're running, this could easily be your issue. Again, a simple voltmeter can answer it. Look up the spec sheets on your batteries and see what they recommend for the various voltage settings, and make sure those are correct in your charger and (if configurable) your BMS.

 

[Routemaster]

OK, I do not think the antics of this fridge is to do with the power now.
We are sitting at the dining table and seeing the temperature gauge changes got something to do with the room temps yes?
Yesterday the temp went up so I switched on the mini split cold air going straight across the room and then see it dropped back down to "0" and last night it was on "0".
Removed the bottom kick plate off and searched for dust could not see any coils either there to clean, are they in the back?
Also ordered two gaskets as there could be a chance of warm air getting in. I was told see if one can trap a dollar bill between the gasket and the jam then if you can pull it out with out to much trouble it is shot, mine are soft? the fridge does seem to run for a long time with strange noises.
Any thoughts?
Den.

 

[Routemaster]

Any idea how one gets to clean the "J" condenser (page 16) in the Frigidaire been in that cubby hole now for 7years. I have looked in the tools drop down not seeing how to get to it or what.
If I have to move her out I see two screws at the vent, there must be more than that holding her in.
Den.

 

[taskswap]

Sorry, this is bouncing around so much it's hard to follow. Every new post has important new information without filling in answers to previous questions. If your fridge is making strange noises can you elaborate? What exactly do the noises sound like? And what did you originally mean when you say the freezer "rose to #7" and then after an hour or so on shore power it "went down to #0"? Are you measuring the actual temp of your freezer or is that the coldness setting? Is your fridge digital? I've never owned a fridge of any brand that changed its settings on its own - especially not twice like this.

Let's get back to basics. We need to know your actual voltages. Get a voltmeter and measure what your fridge is getting on the inverter and shore power. And do the diagnostics Bogie mentioned above.

These things may or may not be the root cause but it's important to start gathering some quantitative data here to rule things out.

 

[Routemaster]

Well fridge is running on solar/shore power having no problems at all. I after all this time never noticed that the fridge door has a bend in it could be not totally shutting off air tight. I also bought a pair of gaskets @ $400.00 for the doors and installed them no temperature change at this time on the display, but I can still hear her running all day.
Is there anyone at Landmark because I messaged them on how the fridge is installed/take out I don't see there is any way to adjust it out at all possible, and crickets.

 

[Piperflyer]

Had problems with my Residential Fridge working on both inverter power & shore power. Inverter & transfer switch were working fine. The fridge would be working and then turn itself off and back on after a few minutes. Come to find out the surge protector I was using went bad and was causing the problem. Bought a new surge protector and everything s fine now.