Progressive Surge Protector for BH 3270RS
- Thread starter 'Lil Guy'
- Start date
Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
watch the YouTube video, it will make it even easier.
'Lil Guy'
Well-known member
The LCHW50 is a simple install with easy to follow instructions and pics. We pulled the fuse box out of the cabinet and disconnected the wires into it and installed them into the power in side of the unit. Then put a new wire from the output side back to the fuse panel. I had someone come over to do it for me. Opened up the walls on the storage bay and I didn't want to crawl up in there to attach the wires. We did attach the output wires to go to the fuse panel outside the unit. The wires are heavy and take some coaxing to get in the right location but it's not very difficult at all. When you're my age and out of shape, climbing in the storage bay isn't for me.lol
'Lil Guy'
Well-known member
With the hardwired unit wired at the fuse panel, my plug is going into the park power. I know to have the power turned off before plugging in to keep from arching. Would there be a gain in protecting the rig or cord with another surge protector at the park power? Maybe just the surge protector and not the full EMS. Might be overkill but it would protect the power cord from sloppy connections. Any thoughts?
wdk450
Well-known member
Lil Guy:
I see no advantage in another outside surge protector. I see a couple of disadvantages, though:
1. An unsecured item outside your coach for someone to steal.
2. 2 more connections and a component in the main power stream. Connections are a weak spot, and an engineering possible point of failure.
avvidclif
Well-known member
Hi JohnDar,
I am preparing to install the Progressive HW50C in our 2016 Bighorn 3010 and plan to not cut the original power cord, but rather use a 6' chunk of 6/4 wire to connect the surge protector to the fuse box. Does it matter if the stranded ground wire is bare? Likely a dumb question but I have seen both a covered green wire and a bare green wire in the Installation YouTube videos and I want to do it safe and right the first time. Thanks all for your replies.
mlpeloquin
Well-known member
The ground wire can be bare. Mine is. I used a external EMI protection for several years. When I have read about RV electrical problems which can occurs over time, I inspected my Big Horn. What an I opener. Doesn't matter Class C, fifth wheel etc. I had found some of the same problems on my old Class C. I quickly went through everything and purchased a Progressive internal unit. I use both because I have both, otherwise I would only have the Progressive.
The national electrical code specifies 6GA for 50 amp only for electrical equipment boxes. Power for buildings specifies 4GA. I purchased 4ga for the run from the progressive to the circuit breaker without checking what the 5er was wired with. I went with the electrical code. It fits, but is much stiffer to work with. I have monitored the current draw from each sided and 35 to 38 amps seems to be the most I have ever drawn from one side or the other. Some people have moved the wiring around in the breaker box to better balance the load since most of the time the draw is from one side. I have found that when you know what each breaker goes to, it is balanced. Heartland engineers did their job properly and be very careful if you are going to rearrange the breaker box. It can be done so as to balance it for the most used electrical draw, but still needs to be divided so as to never be able to draw over 50A per side.
The national electrical code specifies 6GA for 50 amp only for electrical equipment boxes. Power for buildings specifies 4GA. I purchased 4ga for the run from the progressive to the circuit breaker without checking what the 5er was wired with. I went with the electrical code. It fits, but is much stiffer to work with. I have monitored the current draw from each sided and 35 to 38 amps seems to be the most I have ever drawn from one side or the other. Some people have moved the wiring around in the breaker box to better balance the load since most of the time the draw is from one side. I have found that when you know what each breaker goes to, it is balanced. Heartland engineers did their job properly and be very careful if you are going to rearrange the breaker box. It can be done so as to balance it for the most used electrical draw, but still needs to be divided so as to never be able to draw over 50A per side.
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