Project LM 365

[BusManRG]

I’ve read and reread your posts on your satellite dish install and dish receivers. I’ve also done an informal survey of Rv dish owners. You seem to be the only one I’ve come across that own a roof mounted dish and a carry out. Since you have installed your roof mounted dish, how many times have you actually used your carry out? I see benefits to both, a lot less cost to a carry out, but set up time I’m not really sure I wanna deal with whenever we park. And are you still finding that the Wally suits your needs? We have three TVs so I’m wondering if we would need three Wally’s? We have a Hopper and 3 Joeys at home but I was told that they cannot be combined with the system on the rig. What I haven’t found out is if I could actually just have a Hopper and Joeys dedicated to the rig, hmmm....

Sandy

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Sandy sence I put the rooftop unit on in our maybe 100 trips we have tried to use the portable dish 5 times and it only worked 2 of those 5 trys. Not sure if my portable unit has a problem or what it is. Maybe it's just junk.
The rooftop unit will work with the hopper and Joey's but the potable unit will not. That's why I have the 211 & Wally.
I love the Hopper . Maybe some day I will toss the whole setup and go with the hopper in the RV too.

So if your just doing the Dish Traveler on the roof go with the Hopper and Joey's
If you plan on having both Rooftop and portable I still like the 211 remote better then the Wally but the Wally is RF so they say it will work better if the box is in a cabinet.

Ok theres my 2 cents

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[richheck]

Sandy, i too usually use the roof top Traveler, it was a piece of cake to mount. I only carry my portable if I know I’m going to have line of site issues. I only use two Walleys, one for the living room and one for the bedroom. Both Jarrod and I use a wireless HDMI systems from our bedroom TV to the outside TV eliminating the third Wally, Heartland only wires these coaches for two satellite leads from the roof and the UDC center.


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[TravelTiger]

I’ve read and reread your posts on your satellite dish install and dish receivers. I’ve also done an informal survey of Rv dish owners. You seem to be the only one I’ve come across that own a roof mounted dish and a carry out. Since you have installed your roof mounted dish, how many times have you actually used your carry out? I see benefits to both, a lot less cost to a carry out, but set up time I’m not really sure I wanna deal with whenever we park. And are you still finding that the Wally suits your needs? We have three TVs so I’m wondering if we would need three Wally’s? We have a Hopper and 3 Joeys at home but I was told that they cannot be combined with the system on the rig. What I haven’t found out is if I could actually just have a Hopper and Joeys dedicated to the rig, hmmm....

Sandy

We live in our fiver full time, semi-permanent, in an rv park, and when we first decided on satellite, we got a tripod dish and a Hopper and Joey setup.

Once we decided the tripod was a lot of hassle to set up when we did travel, we got the Trav'ler, and it works perfectly with the Hopper and Joey.

So yes you could get a setup for the rig, but my guess is you'd have to have a separate programming account. You could just bring your home Hopper/Joeys into the fiver and use them with a Trav'ler. We go through the setup to find the signal and load the programming with the Trav'ler, then call in to get the local channels added.


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[CarterKraft]

Another spring bites the dust. Found this while we were packing up to leave last night. Decided to just leave it there for the night and went back today to fix it..
Thanks Rod D. and Ken B. for the help today swapping it out before we had to be out of our spot.
I think we did it in about 35 to 40 minutes...

Can get to Moreryde soon enough to have the IS installed. It set for May 21st and 22nd right before the Goshin rally. Hopefully they make it that long. I will now carry a spare for the time being.

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In case you want to go down a rabbit hole.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjALegQICBAB&usg=AOvVaw2rGsFAeLVSoVtsB7SujBXR

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[Bones]

In case you want to go down a rabbit hole.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjALegQICBAB&usg=AOvVaw2rGsFAeLVSoVtsB7SujBXR

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That was a lot a pen and paper to show the spring had been cracked before and rusted in the crack weakening the spring thus finally breaking causing an accident and hitting a rock. Or shall we stick to the drivers story that they hit a rock cycling the suspension opening the crack more and breaking, loosing control of vehicle falling onto said rock and having rock bounce around causing secondary damage.

 

[jbeletti]

That was a lot a pen and paper to show the spring had been cracked before and rusted in the crack weakening the spring thus finally breaking causing an accident and hitting a rock. Or shall we stick to the drivers story that they hit a rock cycling the suspension opening the crack more and breaking, loosing control of vehicle falling onto said rock and having rock bounce around causing secondary damage.

I too went down the rabbit hole. I mean, how could one resist that invitation

The metallurgical analysis was likely done as part of a legal proceeding. It was an interesting read though I have to admit to skipping most of the blah-blah-blah and pictures and going to the conclusion section.

 

[richheck]

In my years being involved with towable RV's I've come to the conclusion that many of the spring failures are caused by the forces placed upon the springs when one is backing up the RV and striking either a curb or other large object while doing such. When going in a reverse direction the spring looses the ability to flex the same way as it does going forward because the shackles are taken out of play. The shackles help absorb the shock and rotation of the axle and spring while sticking these objects, while going in a forward direction but not when in reverse. This diagram will help demonstrate my conclusion.

 

[RickL]

In my years being involved with towable RV's I've come to the conclusion that many of the spring failures are caused by the forces placed upon the springs when one is backing up the RV and striking either a curb or other large object while doing such. When going in a reverse direction the spring looses the ability to flex the same way as it does going forward because the shackles are taken out of play. The shackles help absorb the shock and rotation of the axle and spring while sticking these objects, while going in a forward direction but not when in reverse. This diagram will help demonstrate my conclusion.


View attachment 59575

I don’t want to seem argumentative but based on your theory then vehicles be it cars, trucks, etc., would have similar issues. But having been around vehicle maintenance for 40+ years the amount of broken springs are very small.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

In my years being involved with towable RV's I've come to the conclusion that many of the spring failures are caused by the forces placed upon the springs when one is backing up the RV and striking either a curb or other large object while doing such. When going in a reverse direction the spring looses the ability to flex the same way as it does going forward because the shackles are taken out of play. The shackles help absorb the shock and rotation of the axle and spring while sticking these objects, while going in a forward direction but not when in reverse. This diagram will help demonstrate my conclusion.


View attachment 59575

Rich I have to disagree with you completely on this one..!!!
If that was the case the front spings would brake going forward and the back springs would brake in reverse.
They are mounted in the opposite direction and the shackles are on the opposite ends..

Just my opinion of course.

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[richheck]

I don’t want to seem argumentative but based on your theory then vehicles be it cars, trucks, etc., would have similar issues. But having been around vehicle maintenance for 40+ years the amount of broken springs are very small.

Yes, I see both sides of this theory, I mainly based my thought on the customers comments when brought in for repair that they were hopping a curb in their driveways. I also feel that many of these broken springs were caused by being either close to max weight of the spring or actually over.


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[2psnapod2]

What the problem is the th manufacturers across the board are maxing out the load capacity of the axles and springs. JMHO.

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[CarterKraft]

Spring direction is moot IMO as many OEM vehicles have front springs in 4wd applications mounted backwards i.e. shackle at the front (mid 90's F250-350, mid 90's Jeeps) in those cases are known to ride rougher than trailing shackle suspensions but aren't known to break springs.

In all suspensions I can think of they have bump stops or ways to limit travel. I see nothing to limit travel on our trailers besides the axle contacting the frame and by that time the spring will likely be inverted and grossly overloaded.

With the extra height added by the correct-trac and equalizer mounted suspensions I bet travel is increased though maybe not desirably.

 

[CarterKraft]

From Redneck Trailer on the subject

What is static bump clearance and why should I be concerned about it?

Static bump clearance is the measurement from the top of the axle to the bottom of the trailer frame in a full load situation.
If this is greater than 2.5”, a bump stop should be used to avoid overstressing the leaf springs.

If it is less than 1.5”, full suspension movement may be limited and result in damage to the frame and/or axle(s) when operating on rough or uneven road surfaces.

 

[richheck]

From Redneck Trailer on the subject

Yes, another great point

 

[CarterKraft]

From Dexters Install manual



- - - Updated - - -

I believe I have allot more than 2.5" clearance.

 

[Bones]

From Dexters Install manual

View attachment 59579

- - - Updated - - -

I believe I have allot more than 2.5" clearance.

I have a whole lot more that that too. I don't think any trailer comes with bump stops

 

[CarterKraft]

The horse is probably extremely dead but...

I forgot measure last night but from this pic I have it looks like there is a LOT of room over the top of my axle.
So much so that if I have a spring problem the tire will likely rub the underside of the floor/wheel arch.

It seems pretty important now that I add some type of stop.

There are several ways to do this depending on how much clearance I actually have, they have this type from 1" to 4.5" thick.
I am wanting to use this type as I think the install will be pretty easy with a right angle drill and self tapping screws. The stud mount style might be easy too with only drilling and tapping one hole for each stop.

 

[billk263]

Or these:
https://www.supersprings.com/products/sumosprings/


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[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Well on to a new project...
FedEx just delivered all of my goodies from Lifeblue Batterys. I will work on swapping everything out today or tomorrow. And post more pictures.

2 - 12V-150Ah Lithium ion batteries and the convertor to charge them properly.

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