Project LM 365

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Woke up this morning with a new idea on the water pump
Whipped this up today.
I only have 3 of these little isolators so I figured I would try 3
I'm still trying to eliminate as much of the pump sound as I can. I think the last one is letting the pump move to much.
So I'm going to rig up a trigger switch that I can run the pump from under there and test all of my creations 1 at a time.
I'm dry camping on the coast all next week, so I might not do this tell I get back home.
I'll have my noise meter by then to.
I'm going to put this one in tomorrow and try it out then run the best one I have for the week.

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[danemayer]

Jerrod,

I think we're going to have to index this thread.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

I've been thinking the same thing it takes me forever to find my projects to link them for others.
That's way out of my league though.

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[danemayer]

You've got quite a few mods. I'm up to #34 and only on post 215 of 963.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

But who's counting right !!!
Rhonda is going to do a log sheet of all the Mods inside and outside for the Vegas and Jackson rally's. It's going to take some time.
I can't even remember some of them.

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[danemayer]

I'll have it done in a couple of days with links to each mod.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Seriously ??
Can't wait to see what you come up with.

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[jbeletti]

Jim is it your pump or the way you have it mounted ??

Since we pretty much have the same pump - it must be my mounting.

 

[Bones]

Since we pretty much have the same pump - it must be my mounting.

Jab jab jab.

- - - Updated - - -

Jerrod your electrical pigtail looks good.

 

[porthole]

You have to isolate all that PEX as well. I'm surprised the variable speed pump makes so much noise. Mine seems to be fairly quiet.

If you want to stop the noise, at least while hooked up - well pump.

On our boat (which was bigger then the Cyclone ) the noise from the 12 volt pump was pretty loud, older technology as well.

I had a 3/4 HP well pump in the system, controlled by a pressure switch that was Tee'd into the main line. Also used the large size accumulator. Only noise you would hear was the click of the relay when turning on and then the soft whir of the electric motor, and that was only if you were in the engine room listening. Being a centrifugal pump there was no pulsating that you get from a diaphragm pump, only steady pressure.
Even with all my water lines being copper tube or PVC, and all fixed-supported, it was very quiet.

Your inverter for the fridge would probably run one of these pumps, most of the draw is in the startup.

(the 12 volt pump is under the white board)

If I had the room I would have done it on the Cyclone.

- - - Updated - - -

Note: when adding a centrifugal pump, you have to plumb it so that it is easy to prime if you run it dry. I had a line Tee'd in from the 12 volt pump to the centrifugal pump's inlet side with a 1/4 turn valve.

 

[Kathi-27]

Jerrod
where did you get the 7 way box and cord

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

The forum won't let me post from Tapatalk on my phone....

I get the cord and box from Fleet-Pride truck parts. the cord is a 12' round pin truck cord. You'll have to cut the end's off./ There are a few different brand of the cord, some are more then others. Most of the cost is the higher cost is for the ends that you are cutting off. So get the cheapest one they have. As for the box they have all black or the smoked one, I'm liking the smocked !!! don't get heavy duty, the cord is to thick and hard to stretch.
I'll post a picture when the forum let's me again. LOL they must be tired of me.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

You have to isolate all that PEX as well. I'm surprised the variable speed pump makes so much noise. Mine seems to be fairly quiet.

If you want to stop the noise, at least while hooked up - well pump.

On our boat (which was bigger then the Cyclone ) the noise from the 12 volt pump was pretty loud, older technology as well.

I had a 3/4 HP well pump in the system, controlled by a pressure switch that was Tee'd into the main line. Also used the large size accumulator. Only noise you would hear was the click of the relay when turning on and then the soft whir of the electric motor, and that was only if you were in the engine room listening. Being a centrifugal pump there was no pulsating that you get from a diaphragm pump, only steady pressure.
Even with all my water lines being copper tube or PVC, and all fixed-supported, it was very quiet.

Your inverter for the fridge would probably run one of these pumps, most of the draw is in the startup.

(the 12 volt pump is under the white board)

If I had the room I would have done it on the Cyclone.

- - - Updated - - -

Note: when adding a centrifugal pump, you have to plumb it so that it is easy to prime if you run it dry. I had a line Tee'd in from the 12 volt pump to the centrifugal pump's inlet side with a 1/4 turn valve.

Boy that's quite a system.

 

[danemayer]

The Index Thread to this thread is posted.

 

[hogan]

Dan that is really cool. Going to save me lots of bandwidth usage searching for Jerrod's super ideas. And this is for both you and Jerrod. Jerrod told me about the flexible thingy that came with my rig. "flex drive with a square bit" now just how are we supposed to use it to power up the hyd. pump and also choose what is going to get the pressure to open/close a slide, or level the rig?

- - - Updated - - -

You have to isolate all that PEX as well. I'm surprised the variable speed pump makes so much noise. Mine seems to be fairly quiet.

If you want to stop the noise, at least while hooked up - well pump.

On our boat (which was bigger then the Cyclone ) the noise from the 12 volt pump was pretty loud, older technology as well.

I had a 3/4 HP well pump in the system, controlled by a pressure switch that was Tee'd into the main line. Also used the large size accumulator. Only noise you would hear was the click of the relay when turning on and then the soft whir of the electric motor, and that was only if you were in the engine room listening. Being a centrifugal pump there was no pulsating that you get from a diaphragm pump, only steady pressure.
Even with all my water lines being copper tube or PVC, and all fixed-supported, it was very quiet.

Your inverter for the fridge would probably run one of these pumps, most of the draw is in the startup.

(the 12 volt pump is under the white board)

If I had the room I would have done it on the Cyclone.

- - - Updated - - -

Note: when adding a centrifugal pump, you have to plumb it so that it is easy to prime if you run it dry. I had a line Tee'd in from the 12 volt pump to the centrifugal pump's inlet side with a 1/4 turn valve.

Wow, Porthole, you must have a yadjet

 

[danemayer]

Dan that is really cool. Going to save me lots of bandwidth usage searching for Jerrod's super ideas. And this is for both you and Jerrod. Jerrod told me about the flexible thingy that came with my rig. "flex drive with a square bit" now just how are we supposed to use it to power up the hyd. pump and also choose what is going to get the pressure to open/close a slide, or level the rig?

- - - Updated - - -

Lippert Level Up Manual Override Lip 0262 about 2/3 of the way down in this folder.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

The Index Thread to this thread is posted.

WOW Dan that's awesome thanks so much for doing that I owe you one. You really did an incredible job on it.
I can't believe there is 78 of them, and I still have many more on my list and in my head.
As I add more do in need to update that or do you have to do it ?
Thanks again
Jerrod

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[danemayer]

WOW Dan that's awesome thanks so much for doing that I owe you one. You really did an incredible job on it.
I can't believe there is 78 of them, and I still have many more on my list and in my head.
As I add more do in need to update that or do you have to do it ?
Thanks again
Jerrod

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Because the thread is closed, either I or one of the other moderators will have to update the table.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Today I filled my fresh water tank all the way full for a week long trip to the coast. After filling it I closed the 2 vent shutoff valves that I installed a while back. We will be traveling over the Altamont pass only 1000' elevation but high enough to build pressure in the tank if it's not vented.
I had just installed the quick-coupler caps on the hose bibs which would prevent air from venting there also.
So I drill a small hole in that cap and travel with the Anderson valve set on TANK. That way air can enter and exit the Tank at a higher level then the vents without loosing any of my fresh water while traveling.

Looking at the picture I think I'll drill a few more holes and put a hose screen behind the cap so no bugs can enter.

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[danemayer]

Jerrod,

The Anderson Valve Water Inlet has a check valve that requires a certain amount of water (or air) pressure, from outside, to open. If you're going to higher altitude, where air is thinner, no air is likely to get into the tank. As for water getting out, I think the check valve will prevent that.