Project LM 365
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jassson007
Founding Louisiana Chapter Leaders-Retired
Jerrod just hasn't tasted your Gumbo yet. If he had, you'd be "on the list"
Haven't had a chance to make any lately been too warm down here. I am in Huntsville tx this weekend and it will be first time this fall we are not in the 80's today.
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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
I have been struggling with my smoker folding the legs up and down for a while now and have been thinking of a lift system. I was thinking of a track system that would lift it up then slide it out and lower it down. I had a few different ideas in my head and decided this one would be the easiest and most useful way to accomplish my task.
I did my measurements and put it on paper.
Then stopped by my welding shop and told him what I wanted to do. We stated rummaging around his yard looking for the perfect pieces. The boom was easy to find but the tower and base not so much. We found the tower no problem but couldn't find anything to fit perfectly inside of it. So he decided to machine me down a shaft to fit perfectly inside the tower.
For all of that the bill for the steel and the machining came to $45.00
The lift actuator was about $55.00 on Amazon
Then I found a cool up down switch on Amazon and ordered it
The Jim B. Sent me a link to a even better one with a wireless remote.
Thanks Jim
Now I had to make the pivot point in front of the tower so it would be able to drop down as far as possible without the boom hitting the tower. So I made a box out of 1/4 × 2 steel strip.
Now the boom is 2- 20" pieces one inside the other so I can adjust it to the length I need it and I capped one end.
Finally placed the mounts for the ram in the best place I think it should be and welded it all together.
When I get it back from powder coating I'll install it and wire in the remote switch.
More pictures to come.
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I did my measurements and put it on paper.
Then stopped by my welding shop and told him what I wanted to do. We stated rummaging around his yard looking for the perfect pieces. The boom was easy to find but the tower and base not so much. We found the tower no problem but couldn't find anything to fit perfectly inside of it. So he decided to machine me down a shaft to fit perfectly inside the tower.
For all of that the bill for the steel and the machining came to $45.00
The lift actuator was about $55.00 on Amazon
Then I found a cool up down switch on Amazon and ordered it
The Jim B. Sent me a link to a even better one with a wireless remote.
Thanks Jim
Now I had to make the pivot point in front of the tower so it would be able to drop down as far as possible without the boom hitting the tower. So I made a box out of 1/4 × 2 steel strip.
Now the boom is 2- 20" pieces one inside the other so I can adjust it to the length I need it and I capped one end.
Finally placed the mounts for the ram in the best place I think it should be and welded it all together.
When I get it back from powder coating I'll install it and wire in the remote switch.
More pictures to come.
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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
Here is a wiring diagram Rhonda and I made up to help some of you do the install of my boxes or make up your own.
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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
The wiring diagram is correct but color chart is just for my boxes. Or if your making your own from scratch.
I found on all of the 9 boxes I've installed every RV wire colors have been a little different.
Most all of them have the (White wires as ground)
(Blue for brakes)
(The Orange with black strip wire for the brake away switch)
(And 1 big RED wire for the battery)
But after that the wires they use for left turn, right turn, and tail lights, have all been a little different.
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I found on all of the 9 boxes I've installed every RV wire colors have been a little different.
Most all of them have the (White wires as ground)
(Blue for brakes)
(The Orange with black strip wire for the brake away switch)
(And 1 big RED wire for the battery)
But after that the wires they use for left turn, right turn, and tail lights, have all been a little different.
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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
Guess I won't be getting my truck next week.
Just received this email from my Ford guy....
(Hi Jerrod!*
Your truck is coming this way on the train and is showing an ETA to be here between 11/19 and 11/25.*
I will let you know as soon as I see it roll in! =)*
I can't believe how long it's been already and two more weeks is crazy.
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Just received this email from my Ford guy....
(Hi Jerrod!*
Your truck is coming this way on the train and is showing an ETA to be here between 11/19 and 11/25.*
I will let you know as soon as I see it roll in! =)*
I can't believe how long it's been already and two more weeks is crazy.
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CarterKraft
Well-known member
They're still rounding up the 400+ horses to lock under the hood😈
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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
There all going to be dead by the time it gets here.
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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
For those of you receiving my boxes soon, I recommend the color coded tape to mark all of your wires before you remove them and a multi-meter to help identify each group of wires.
This picture is from O'Reilly auto parts
You'll want identify and mark each wire before you remove anything.
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This picture is from O'Reilly auto parts
You'll want identify and mark each wire before you remove anything.
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Last edited:
Jess,
I have just finished installing the coiled cable and plastic box mod. All went well with the installation. All of the lights are working fine (had fun tracing the turn signal and tail light wires). Will test the brakes and breakaway cable tomorrow. I decided to keep the original cable (coiled up inside the pin box) in case my rig is ever towed by someone without an in-bed connector.
Really like the flashing lights and all lights on functions. Thanks for a great mod!
Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
Glad you liked it.
I left the straight cord on mine at first also. I had the same thought. But the coiled cord is supposed to be 12' so I'm sure it would reach if needed. So I removed it.
There's not to many guys without the plug in the bed anyway.
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I left the straight cord on mine at first also. I had the same thought. But the coiled cord is supposed to be 12' so I'm sure it would reach if needed. So I removed it.
There's not to many guys without the plug in the bed anyway.
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ShawnPHanna
Member
Jerrod thanks for the coaching on the issues behind the Microwave.
We purchased a Fridge Professional 1.8 cubic foot Convection/Microwave oven to replace the Hotpoint. Just like your framing on your Ashland ours was the same. The rear exhaust framing was out by a full inch from centre of the cabinet and an inch lower than the rear damper vent that attaches to the oven.
So my next door neighbor had some extremely sticky foil tape, we mounted the damper with the tape sealing it flush to the back wall within the off centre opening. I then went to a Fireplace woodstove dealer and picked up some soft 1/2 inch thick gasket sticky one side and placed it around the rear of the oven. Now all the cooking aromas will exhaust with no leakage and no outside drafts come into our Ashland.
Luckily all three mounting screws on the topside were identical to the Hotpoint, the only difference was the bottom bracket was lower but just above the backsplash tile opening. Again thanks for help. My better half more than happy with higher end oven.
Shawn
We purchased a Fridge Professional 1.8 cubic foot Convection/Microwave oven to replace the Hotpoint. Just like your framing on your Ashland ours was the same. The rear exhaust framing was out by a full inch from centre of the cabinet and an inch lower than the rear damper vent that attaches to the oven.
So my next door neighbor had some extremely sticky foil tape, we mounted the damper with the tape sealing it flush to the back wall within the off centre opening. I then went to a Fireplace woodstove dealer and picked up some soft 1/2 inch thick gasket sticky one side and placed it around the rear of the oven. Now all the cooking aromas will exhaust with no leakage and no outside drafts come into our Ashland.
Luckily all three mounting screws on the topside were identical to the Hotpoint, the only difference was the bottom bracket was lower but just above the backsplash tile opening. Again thanks for help. My better half more than happy with higher end oven.
Shawn
Well the GE Advantium is in
This thing is nice
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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
Very nice job. Sounds like you did it better than I did mine. DW will definitely be happy with the final result.
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oldelmer1
Well-known member
Jerrod,
Just did my power cord 7.0, my wire colors were completely different than yours, but I tested each wire first and everything seems to work fine.
Haven't tested the brakes yet, i need to hookup to the truck for that. I think????
Thanks again,
Tom
Just did my power cord 7.0, my wire colors were completely different than yours, but I tested each wire first and everything seems to work fine.
Haven't tested the brakes yet, i need to hookup to the truck for that. I think????
Thanks again,
Tom
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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
Tom as long as you have the blue wires on the blue post your brakes should work.
Glad you got it done.
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Glad you got it done.
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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
Update on the LED light strips under my frame rails.
A while back when I did my drawer Mod I hit and broke a few of the LED lights in that 38' light strip. Since then they have been stuck on red. Well after returning from our last trip I stopped at the truck wash to get all of the salty ocean mist off of everything. I could see the light strip was still on at the truck wash (some times I forget to turn it off before traveling) well last night I noticed only about 4' of it working now and the rest is dead.
This was a cheap set up I found on Amazon. Looks like I'll need to replace it with better quality LED light strip and this time I'll do both sides.
A while back when I did my drawer Mod I hit and broke a few of the LED lights in that 38' light strip. Since then they have been stuck on red. Well after returning from our last trip I stopped at the truck wash to get all of the salty ocean mist off of everything. I could see the light strip was still on at the truck wash (some times I forget to turn it off before traveling) well last night I noticed only about 4' of it working now and the rest is dead.
This was a cheap set up I found on Amazon. Looks like I'll need to replace it with better quality LED light strip and this time I'll do both sides.
Bones
Well-known member
do you remember which ones you bought?
Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
Dave here's what I started with. I then switch it over to the 12v Mi-Light controller
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WRDG9CQ/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WRDG9CQ/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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