Northerner
Member
Iam purchasing a new 350 Ford and from what I can see the back of my 2008 BigHorn wil look lower. What do you think I can do to level this so it doesn't look like the back is dragging?? Any Suggestions
Raising trailer to level up with truck.
- Thread starter Northerner
- Start date
Well I guess the first thing you will need to do is hitch up. Then measure your Bighorn to see if it is level or not. If it is lower in the back, you may have to lower the hitch in your truck. Or if that is not possible, raise the pin box.
You need to be hitched up on level ground then measure the Bighorn frame to ground.
Peace
Dave
You need to be hitched up on level ground then measure the Bighorn frame to ground.
Peace
Dave
superduty08
Tennessee Chapter Leaders
I had to lower the hitch down one position because the 4x4 made it too high to level.
KENNY COCHRAN
MCNEESE STATE COWBOYS #1
I don't think you will have a problem. I have a 2004 f-250 diesel, long wheel base with a 2010, 3670rl rig. Pulls fine and is level enough for me. No air bags or anything.
Take a look at the suspension on your trailer. On my Landmark, it had holes 2" below the spring pin holes and MoRyde equalizer mounting holes. I raised my coach and moved the springs and equalizers to the lower holes and now it is almost perfectly level hooked to my 2010 4X4 ram.
KL7j
Active Member
The new Fords are higher bed and rail.
Is your truck a single rear wheel 4X4, with the 20" rims or a dually? You will find the 2011 single rear wheel F350 truck is the highest bed rail height of all brands. The dually has smaller tires and sits lower. There are 3" high rubber spacers on the F350 SRW axle to spring assembly and Ford would not allow removal and maintain warranty. Depending on your RV frame being 8", 10', or whatever models (that affects overhang height according to Heartland engineers), getting 5" bedrail clearance once the unit is level can be an issue. I had a 2011 F350 single rear wheel, Crew, short bed 4X4 diesel, the BH 3055 still was not exactly level with the bed 5th hitch at lowest setting and barely 5" rail clearance.
A photo link of the truck and 5th on a level asphalt truck stop. Not bad but not level either. Think you have to be logged in to view this link:
//heartlandowners.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=10853&d=1288939630
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westxsrt10
Perfict Senior Member
I had the same problem as my 250 4x4 bed is way high compaired to other trucks. There is a fairly easy fix and I have posted how to do this a few times. (8 longer u-bolts, 4 pinned blocks installed between the spring pack and axle base.) Without the blocks I had only 4" clearance from the bed rail to the bottom of the trailer. Towing our 5th wheel 4"-5" high in the front was not a option for me.
LBallard
Well-known member
I have 2011 F-350 KR long bed with 20" wheels. I also have the 25K Reese hitch from Ford. My coach is 08' Bighorn RL3370. The only thing I did was raise the hitch to the 17" adjustment to get 6 - 7" bed rail clearance. Everything appears level while towing. It tows just fine.
porthole
Retired
You really need to mention "which F350".
The bed height of the 2011 F-350 DRW is the same as my 2006 GMC short bed. That's about 2-3" lower then all the SRW trucks.
KL7j
Active Member
Could you please put in a link to that fix? I can't find it with a search.
westxsrt10
Perfict Senior Member
I can't find the link either but this is how its done.
I bought 8ea. 2" longer U-bolts with XH nuts from Summit racing. Made 4 blocks from 1 1/2" x 1/4"x 5" long square tube, drilled 9/16" hole on center top of the block to match the spring pin securing the block. (blocks could be welded to the top of the axle saddle spring base).
Install one block at a time by lowing/raising the axle near the wheel with a floor jack. Photo shows the block installed, I would not add more than 2" tall block.
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westxsrt10
Perfict Senior Member
I have seen people use 5" blocks without any problems but using quality U-bolts torqued properly is the key for sure. I would never suggest any mod that is unsafe.
westxsrt10
Perfict Senior Member
We take our Sundance where no RV should go so the bumpstops seemed like a good idea... I used some of the axel block tubing under the bump stop. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=191317&PARTNER=bing
A lot safer than blocking. If you use spacer blocks between the spring and axle, you increase the risk of tearing the axle from the spring. The taller the block, the greater rotational torque on the spring when the brakes are applieds or you hit a chuck hole. If the blocking gets very high, a torque limiter of some kind will need to be installed. I have seen where people have installed blocks to match their lifted 4x4 to get the trailer level and have had there axles torn out from under the trailer. Not a pretty sight.
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