Replacement batteries

[Lou_and_Bette]

I surrender and must go to the forum for help with selecting new batteries for my BigHorn. I see that according to the dimensions of my current batteries there are several Groups that have similar dimensions so which one is best for my rig? Also, when I search for battery reviews I search for Deep Cycle RV/Marine batteries, is this the appropriate type battery I want? I ask this second question because most review recommendations are for AGM batteries but, from other threads on this forum, there seems to be some questions regarding the current converter properly charging this type battery. Finally, since we full time, can I just disconnect the batteries while we are hooked to shore power and still have 12 volt service to the rig or should I plan on shutting everything down while I change the batteries?

So, in summary:
1. Group size?
2. Deep cycle or not?
3. Converter able to charge AGM?
4. Shut down power during change? (Understand the need to be extremely careful not to short while installing if system still hot)
5. Brand recommendations? (Realize this is speculative but interested in a brand that you have a track record with)

Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide

Lou

 

[rjr6150]

Group #31
AGM Optima blue top.

 

[travelin2]

Group 27 minimum or step up to Group 31

Definitely marine deep cycle

Wet cell or AGM (is cost a factor?) Likely differing opinions there

Brand-you get what you pay for IMO

Changing-turn off shore power, turn off battery disconnect switch, remove the negative grounding cable first (this eliminates any incidental arcing), clean all the cable terminal ends, coat with electrical grease, reverse process to connect

I know you’re on shore power mostly every night but have a residential fridge, so maybe 31’s for your travel days but wet cell to hold the cost down???


I have Group 31, AGM, deep cycle batteries. No charging issues. I see no references in the Owners manual specifying battery type. Only to check water levels regularly (unnecessary with AGM)



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[roundabout]

One of the first things I did was install two larger 6 volt golf cart style batteries and the appropriate battery box. I had to refit the vent tube
what I found out is I barely have enough room to lift in heavy golf cart flooded batteries. Next time around I may go with agm
i used flooded batteries because of cost. I went with larger batteries because it’s wise not to discharge a flooded battery below say 80% if you want them to last a long time. And I rarely dry camp long enough to need anything more than an occasional draw down to 70%
replacing with an agm means less weight. It also allows me to draw down the batteries more say to 50% without compromising the life of the battery. I can use a smaller battery. The only drawback is the cost
your new Rv should have the newest charge/converter which handles the higher amp and voltage capacity of an agm battery. It’s not nessesary to limit your use of anything while charging your batteries. It all happens automatically. The charger does not demand any current it only uses what is available after the demand from the converter. And there’s plenty left unless you’ve installed some high demand dc assessories.
You can check me if you like. By calling progressive dynamics which I believe is the brand you have. Or check the heartland user guides under “tools”

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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]2010 Ram 3500 HD traded in for new 2015 3500 HD DRW mega cab with the 3.42 gears[/FONT][/FONT]
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[sengli]

My original battery lasted about five years. It still worked but when I would run the hydraulics, it would stop occasionally. Anyway I went with a group 27 like what I had originally. To me its a battery. Sure you can spend twice as much on a AGM type. But in the end it wouldnt enhance any day to day operation.

And I would shut down everything, during your swap. If you short the converter output..you might smoke it.

 

[NWILSON]

Lou,
You have asked a question equivalent to "which tires?" "what brand of truck" etc.!
I opted for the Duracell (made by Deka) AGM group31 batteries which I found cheapest at Sams Club Sams Club Batteries They frequently go on sale for $20 off. Depending on what you have for battery case(s) you may need to buy new ones

I contacted Progressive Dynamics about compatability with a PD9200 converter...Dennis said he had no concerns though he did suggest getting their "Pendant" (less than $20) that would allow manual control of charge rate for faster recovery when needed.

I had 6v golf cart batteries in our last Cyclone which were REALLY heavy and did, of course, require monitoring the water level. I decided that both of those negatives were disqualifying for me.

We have yet to run the AGM's so low that the inverter for the fridge drops off line so, yes, they are working fine for us!

 

[travelin2]

FYI-My group 31 AGM batteries weight nearly 70# each. They are heavy.


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[roundabout]

Ya. I’m not sure how heavy my batteries are. But they are heavier than I’m comfortable with. But I do fill them with distilled water four times a year and I rarely use my 2000 watt converter without recharging with the generator before I get below 80%. I installed a main 150 amp fuse and pendant from progressive as well as a battery meter which indicates amp draw and battery charge

so far my batteries are still like new going on four years. 10 years isn’t unheard of for flooded batteries if they are well cared for. By then I’ll probibly think it’s a good enough reason to trade into another rv when it time to replace the batteries 😊.

If the agm batteries where more available back then. I probibly would of gone that route.

Another point to to make is I’ve seen agm installs without a battery box because they don’t out gas unless there’s a real problem. And there’s no maintenance to speak of and less wiring

 

[Lou_and_Bette]

Thanks for the replies from everyone. I did finally, after considering the aforementioned replies, decide. on replacing with 2 group 27 flooded batteries from Interstate where I happened upon a good deal of $100/battery out the door (two for less than the cost of one AGM). My old batteries where the dual purpose, deep cycle batteries from Exide. The batteries were installed when we bought the rig 4 years ago. I replaced them because they were slightly swollen and seemed to be “off gassing” Hydrogen gas noticed because there was more issues with corrosion on the terminals and flakes collecting on the bottom of the battery box. As roundabout noted about the life of a flooded cell battery, I believe mine met an early demise related to te constant use they get because we full time and “damage” due to 2 years ago when our converter died and the batteries were severely discharged. Again, thanks to everyone’s help.

P.S. I completed the replacement without disconnecting the power. I realize there was some risk involved with this approach but, for those who know me know, I like pushing my limits. This method was made possible because of the way my 12 volt system is set up. My battery box has two large, one pos and one neg, lugs on top of the box where the actual connections to the rig are. Inside the box, the other ends of the lugs are where the batteries are connected. So, I attached my battery charger to the external part of the lugs thereby supplying 12 volt power to the rig and allowing me to lift the lid and disconnect the batteries without interruption of power. FYI, if your rig is set up this way, I found a very loose connection on the inside negative lug so occasional checking of these connections is required IMHO. If this connection would have come completely loose, loss of ground would have been a distinct possibility.

 

[JohnD]

I replaced them because they were slightly swollen and seemed to be “off gassing” Hydrogen gas noticed because there was more issues with corrosion on the terminals and flakes collecting on the bottom of the battery box.

Sounds like what is going on with my 3 year old battery, except it is not swelling.

I thought that maybe the 130-150 degree inside-the-trailer temps down here in the desert of AZ was making the battery boil or something.

Even though I've had it disconnected, it still is all wet with some brown crud forming on the + connection bolt of the battery and the flakes on the bottom of the battery box when I checked on it in storage.

I pulled the battery out last week and had it checked and they said it was OK.

I'm keeping it in storage now until needed, although I am looking around at solar devices to keep the battery topped off while in storage.

 

[wdk450]

For those of you that mentioned batteries having a rough time with landing gear or the slides, I would like to put out a bit of advice. My arrival and departure checklists have connecting the AC power near first on the arrival list, and disconnecting the shorepower just about last on the departure list. That way the 60 amps from the converter/charger is available to help out the batteries in running the landing gear and the slides.

 

[Lou_and_Bette]

Good point Bill, I do the same thing

 

[JohnDar]

At our site, I do the same.


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[cemill]

I do the same.

 

[carl.swoyer]

For those of you that mentioned batteries having a rough time with landing gear or the slides, I would like to put out a bit of advice. My arrival and departure checklists have connecting the AC power near first on the arrival list, and disconnecting the shorepower just about last on the departure list. That way the 60 amps from the converter/charger is available to help out the batteries in running the landing gear and the slides.

We have always done it the same way as well.

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[RVFun4Us]

Very interesting thread. We are having issues with the landing gear stopping when auto leveling. It seems that the longer it takes to level, the more of a chance that this will happen. The LCD display actually goes blank. Then I would have to restart the auto level again. I have replaced the hydraulic 50 amp breaker recently so I suspect the batteries are beginning to fail. My batteries are right at 4 years old now. The "Hydraulic Slide Start" and Stops" under the User Guide section on this forum states that deep cycle batteries may last only 2 or 3 years. So my inclination is to go ahead and replace the batteries, then reinstall a new 50 amp or possibly 80 amp circuit breaker so everything is fresh. What are your experiences with battery life and when to replace? The guide also stated that there may be more than 1 breaker between the battery and hydraulic pump. Did not know that and if I find this to be true, will replace those too.

 

[Lou_and_Bette]

I started this thread and, upon advice from others, replaced my batteries. I replaced my two batteries with 2 from Interstate. They have batteries which are declared to be for RV use. I had no trouble with these batteries since I installed them over a year ago and, depending on their longiviety, am inclinded to buy them again.

 

[boatto5er]

Are you using the SRM31?


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[RVFun4Us]

Just purchased two new Interstate Series 27 batteries today and installed. Also, changed out the 50 amp hydraulic breaker so I knew it was new and had not weakened from tripping. So next trip, we will see if everything works well. I will begin plugging into the 50 amp park electrical box before using the jacks and slides from now on when unhitching and leave it plugged in until all jacks are up and slides in when hitching. Less wear and tear on the batteries and breakers.