Shortest and lightest TV for a Bighorn 3755 or 3855
- Thread starter Filou
- Start date
It looks like you may be comparing the the numbers from a 6.6 Duramax to the 6.0 Vortex equipped vehicles.
Both 3500 models but different ratings.
Peace
Dave
Bob&Patty
Founders of SoCal Chapter
GMC and Chevy are the same truck. Load rating vary with engines, transmissions, SC, C/C SRW, DRW and rear end gears. 4WD and SRW will decrease payload. 2WD with DRW has a 500# higher rating than a 4WD DRW. SO and SO ON. You have to read the owners manual for the exact weight rating by equipment the truck has.
Unless things have changed....both trucks come down the same assembly line. I have seen plenty of GMC's with Chevy grills and hub caps and visa versa. You could remove a Chevy front clip and it would fit right on a GMC. Heck you can put an Escalade front clip on either truck. Bolts right on. Any thing that GM makes that is a SUV or truck is considered a truck....period.
Unless things have changed....both trucks come down the same assembly line. I have seen plenty of GMC's with Chevy grills and hub caps and visa versa. You could remove a Chevy front clip and it would fit right on a GMC. Heck you can put an Escalade front clip on either truck. Bolts right on. Any thing that GM makes that is a SUV or truck is considered a truck....period.
DW_Gray
Well-known member
I don't think so. Look closely. Several Vortex engine trucks have even less axle weight ratings. But if you can show me an error, I'll correct it.
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
Bob&Patty
Founders of SoCal Chapter
Dave, sure any Vortex engine will have lower ratings than the Duramax/Allison combo. They are smaller ci gas engines and most do not have the Allison trans. I will get out my owners manual and post the ratings gas/diesel later today.
JMHO, this thread is going nowhere. The OP will not accept the fact that he needs a 350/3500 for the BH they want. Montana did make a front living for awhile. They were very pin heavy and had frame problems. HL makes a front living and a front bath (Montana does to) and they are very pin heavy.
JMHO, this thread is going nowhere. The OP will not accept the fact that he needs a 350/3500 for the BH they want. Montana did make a front living for awhile. They were very pin heavy and had frame problems. HL makes a front living and a front bath (Montana does to) and they are very pin heavy.
MTPockets
Well-known member
Seems that is pretty common. Heavy fifth wheels and SRW trucks that are most often under mfg payload ratings.
Of course a 3500er is needed. I'm not looking for a unsafe TV in cause of overloading it.
But i don't want to buy a completly oversized TV just to keep every figure of the FW overcompensated.
Example. I need ~4000lbs payload for the hitch and persons. Of course i could buy a DRW with > 6000lbs payload. But a SRW has 4000-4500lbs payload, too.
Maybe its my european origin. If a sheet in europe says the car can tow 7000lbs, it can tow 7000lbs, safely.
Maybe its the cause of the fact, that driving a car in europe is extremly expensive.
I need a TV to do the job, but i want it as small as possible. AND IT MUST DO THE JOB SAVE!!!
But i don't want to buy a completly oversized TV just to keep every figure of the FW overcompensated.
Example. I need ~4000lbs payload for the hitch and persons. Of course i could buy a DRW with > 6000lbs payload. But a SRW has 4000-4500lbs payload, too.
Maybe its my european origin. If a sheet in europe says the car can tow 7000lbs, it can tow 7000lbs, safely.
Maybe its the cause of the fact, that driving a car in europe is extremly expensive.
I need a TV to do the job, but i want it as small as possible. AND IT MUST DO THE JOB SAVE!!!
DW_Gray
Well-known member
Filou, several Heartlanders have offered their advice, opinions and facts, yet you continue to refer back to European model trucks. If it's that important to you, order one of those and have it shipped to you and be happy. Somehow I don't think you'll save much money. Towing safely is rarely cheap. This is my last reply here to you. You may PM if you desire.
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
Last edited:
MTPockets
Well-known member
. Be careful, the factory charts may show a SRW payload capacity of 4000 lbs, but the sticker on the driver door post may say 3500. The difference being the truck options. The factory charts are stripped down weights, then you have to allow for your hitch weight, passengers, full tank of fuel, and any other truck cargo. So, with a 4000 lb factory chart, you may have only 3000 lbs or less left for the 5th wheel pin weight.
Maybe my english is so bad, that i can't articulate what i mean.
Importing a car/truck to the USA that is not sold here is a never ending story. I had a VW Passat Stationwagon with a 170HP TDI engine. No chance to get a registration here, because it could never do the emmisionssurvey here. (it was clean enough, but the bureaucracy)
And that was never part of this thread to import something.
And it was also never a part to buy a 1500er or 2500er. They are too small. Not enough payload, towrating and GCWR.
When i start the thread, it was absoluty clear, that it has to be a 3500er and a Diesel.
But there are many 3500er out there. Ram, F-Series, Sierra and Silverado. Reg.Cab, ext.Cab, CrewCab and MegaCab. Ultrashort Box, Short Box, Long Box, ext. Long Box. Single Rearwheel and Dual Rearwheel.
And there must be a 3500er between them, that has 4000lbs payload, 16000lbs towrating and a GCWR that match the other figures.
Not less and not more. And exactly this matching 3500er should be as short as possible and should have the lowest possible curbweight.
A Peterbilt 379 matches all FW's too, even without any trailerbrake. But noone here drives it. If you know what i mean. (exaggerated)
On the sheets a SRW with Short Box should be able to do the job, too.
You have a Dually with a Long Box and a Toyhauler with a Smart inside. So you drive to the campingground and pull out the smart to move around. Good plan. But i know no small car that fits into a toyhauler and that fits me. I'm a heavyweight.
Sorry, but i'm used to see figures on sheets that have the safety inside. Maybe thats my fault. Example. If a car-sheet says 7000lbs towrating in europe. It has always a missusage inside. Its not even safe when you drive the allowed 80km/h. Its still safe enough to drive 110km/h with 7500lbs on the hitch.
When i calculate a pipe in my job, its safe, even when its get a higher flow or a higher pressure. Its so safe that it can take a unnormal variance in the process without bursting. Of course no heavy accident. For this the plant has extra safety installations.
I would not pay money for a complete brakeconversion with EoH Brakes and Discs and midduty rims and tires, when safety doesn't matter for me.
Importing a car/truck to the USA that is not sold here is a never ending story. I had a VW Passat Stationwagon with a 170HP TDI engine. No chance to get a registration here, because it could never do the emmisionssurvey here. (it was clean enough, but the bureaucracy)
And that was never part of this thread to import something.
And it was also never a part to buy a 1500er or 2500er. They are too small. Not enough payload, towrating and GCWR.
When i start the thread, it was absoluty clear, that it has to be a 3500er and a Diesel.
But there are many 3500er out there. Ram, F-Series, Sierra and Silverado. Reg.Cab, ext.Cab, CrewCab and MegaCab. Ultrashort Box, Short Box, Long Box, ext. Long Box. Single Rearwheel and Dual Rearwheel.
And there must be a 3500er between them, that has 4000lbs payload, 16000lbs towrating and a GCWR that match the other figures.
Not less and not more. And exactly this matching 3500er should be as short as possible and should have the lowest possible curbweight.
A Peterbilt 379 matches all FW's too, even without any trailerbrake. But noone here drives it. If you know what i mean. (exaggerated)
On the sheets a SRW with Short Box should be able to do the job, too.
You have a Dually with a Long Box and a Toyhauler with a Smart inside. So you drive to the campingground and pull out the smart to move around. Good plan. But i know no small car that fits into a toyhauler and that fits me. I'm a heavyweight.
Sorry, but i'm used to see figures on sheets that have the safety inside. Maybe thats my fault. Example. If a car-sheet says 7000lbs towrating in europe. It has always a missusage inside. Its not even safe when you drive the allowed 80km/h. Its still safe enough to drive 110km/h with 7500lbs on the hitch.
When i calculate a pipe in my job, its safe, even when its get a higher flow or a higher pressure. Its so safe that it can take a unnormal variance in the process without bursting. Of course no heavy accident. For this the plant has extra safety installations.
I would not pay money for a complete brakeconversion with EoH Brakes and Discs and midduty rims and tires, when safety doesn't matter for me.
Tombstonejim
Well-known member
Look Here
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/1706-Hitch-Buddy-Tow-DollyWhat
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/1706-Hitch-Buddy-Tow-DollyWhat
Okay, direct question.
F350 RegCab LongBox: 11500lbs GVWR, 4430lbs Payload (-options), 16300lbs Towrating, GCWR 23500lbs, 6000lbs frontaxle, 7000lbs rearaxle.
Silverado RegCab LongBox: 11400lbs GVWR, 4500lbs Payload (-options), 17500lbs Towrating, GCWR 24500lbs, 5200lbs frontaxle, 7050lbs rearaxle.
Is one of this two a suitable and safe TV for the BH3755FL oder 3855FL?
F350 RegCab LongBox: 11500lbs GVWR, 4430lbs Payload (-options), 16300lbs Towrating, GCWR 23500lbs, 6000lbs frontaxle, 7000lbs rearaxle.
Silverado RegCab LongBox: 11400lbs GVWR, 4500lbs Payload (-options), 17500lbs Towrating, GCWR 24500lbs, 5200lbs frontaxle, 7050lbs rearaxle.
Is one of this two a suitable and safe TV for the BH3755FL oder 3855FL?
MTPockets
Well-known member
. "If" the pin weight of the BH does not exceed your payload, the answer is yes. There is no way of knowing your final trailer pin weight until you load it, then weigh it. My BH is smaller than the 3755 and my pin weight is 3400 lbs. fully loaded for full time living.
Bob&Patty
Founders of SoCal Chapter
Filou, the 3500 Chevy/GMC SRW,C/C, S/B meets all your needs. I wrote a long post to you yesterday....but I guess I did not hit the "post quick reply" button....so it poofed into cyberspace somewhere. I looked in my owners manual (2013-14 are the same), 2015 could be higher and the specs you listed for the Ford are lower than a GM truck. GM trucks are cheaper truck to truck..options to options and are a lighter truck on the scales. Fords are a good truck...but are heavier by 5-600# and maybe more than the same GM truck. A S/B truck will be about 17' long...might fit your garage or maybe not. I dont know if understand this but....when you are hooked to your 5er. Your 5er will be 4' shorter than the overall length ie 41'-4'= 37'.
You need to go look at the 2 trucks. Take long test drives, compare prices truck to truck. Ask what the fuel tanks hold in fuel. A lot of the weight you put in the truck will add to the steering axle. Ask what the curb weights are on each truck. That will not be with passengers, full of fuel, the hitch or other stuff you have in the truck ready to travel. As you know also, some of the pin weight will transer to the steering axle. My steering axle weight changes about 200# with the 5er hooked up.
JMHO, you are making yourself a nervous wreck over this. Go buy or order a truck you like. Get used to driving it....get your BH and just have fun. If you can drive a lorry overseas, then you can darn sure drive a truck and trailer here.
You need to go look at the 2 trucks. Take long test drives, compare prices truck to truck. Ask what the fuel tanks hold in fuel. A lot of the weight you put in the truck will add to the steering axle. Ask what the curb weights are on each truck. That will not be with passengers, full of fuel, the hitch or other stuff you have in the truck ready to travel. As you know also, some of the pin weight will transer to the steering axle. My steering axle weight changes about 200# with the 5er hooked up.
JMHO, you are making yourself a nervous wreck over this. Go buy or order a truck you like. Get used to driving it....get your BH and just have fun. If you can drive a lorry overseas, then you can darn sure drive a truck and trailer here.
caissiel
Senior Member
I fully agree with previous post. Just don't overload your rear tires. Though I own a Ford the GM would be my choice in agreement with your needs.
Here we can load 50% the weight of the vehicle. That makes my 7500 lbs truck capable of 11700 lbs of GVW. And I cannot register it for less. I tried.
Sent from my LG-LS720 using Tapatalk
Here we can load 50% the weight of the vehicle. That makes my 7500 lbs truck capable of 11700 lbs of GVW. And I cannot register it for less. I tried.
Sent from my LG-LS720 using Tapatalk
Hi everybody
The rearaxle should get an additional airbag kit to adjust the loadlevel etc.
What is better? Installing a additional airbag kit or build in a full 4-link rear air suspension? I read many about the additional airbag kits and their behavior. Often you read about a pogo stick behavior when the truck is not loaded.
4-link air suspensions should ride better under every constitution, but cost 4 to 5 times as much.
Any experience with that?
The next point are the rims of Ford. Rearaxle 3640lbs per side, tires ~3750lbs. But the rims have only 3550lbs.
And there are many aftermarket rims out their. Most with 3690lbs.
But I don't understand one thing. Ford specified 40mm inlet on their rims. But aftermarket rims have all only a offset specified. I know there is a direct relationship between inlet and offset. But is 40mm inlet 40mm offset or -40mm offset?
Filou
The rearaxle should get an additional airbag kit to adjust the loadlevel etc.
What is better? Installing a additional airbag kit or build in a full 4-link rear air suspension? I read many about the additional airbag kits and their behavior. Often you read about a pogo stick behavior when the truck is not loaded.
4-link air suspensions should ride better under every constitution, but cost 4 to 5 times as much.
Any experience with that?
The next point are the rims of Ford. Rearaxle 3640lbs per side, tires ~3750lbs. But the rims have only 3550lbs.
And there are many aftermarket rims out their. Most with 3690lbs.
But I don't understand one thing. Ford specified 40mm inlet on their rims. But aftermarket rims have all only a offset specified. I know there is a direct relationship between inlet and offset. But is 40mm inlet 40mm offset or -40mm offset?
Filou
MTPockets
Well-known member
Filou, this question is being made too complicated. If you really want the right truck and the safest truck, get a 3500 DRW. If you want a SRW and fool yourself by rationalizing boarderline nbers and the use of input from SRW users, go ahead. It's your money, your truck, your 5th wheel.
DW_Gray
Well-known member
MTPpockets and others:
Filou and I have been discussing this situation by PM for the past 9 days. He is getting the F350 SRW for good reason and it will meet his needs. Please refrain for recommending a different truck and answer the specific questions he is asking.
If I knew the answers to some of his questions, he'd not be asking here.
Thank you,
Bob&Patty
Founders of SoCal Chapter
Filou, the wheels that come on any truck are rated for the legal weight ratings. IMHO, you do not need to change the wheels. For pulling that heavy of a trailer....you need to get the Ford with the 3:73 rear end gears.
As to air bags, I installed the "air lift" system with the auto leveling compressor kit. I dont have to mess around with adding and releasing air all the time. They will pump up the bags as needed and release air for a nice ride when not needed. I think that "air lift" has a $100 mail in rebate if you buy both kits. I installed mine...but you can have someone else do it for extra $$$.
As to air bags, I installed the "air lift" system with the auto leveling compressor kit. I dont have to mess around with adding and releasing air all the time. They will pump up the bags as needed and release air for a nice ride when not needed. I think that "air lift" has a $100 mail in rebate if you buy both kits. I installed mine...but you can have someone else do it for extra $$$.
The last thing i want is a bouncing rear.
Is not one function of a air suspension to make the ride smoother when no load is in the TV and level the vehicle when its loaded?
I ask for the rims because its one point of what i talked about with Gray and the original Ford rims are not the best looking i have ever seen. I would prefer the Vision Assassins in Chrome. 9x20, offset 12mm. But mean 40mm inlet now +40mm offset or -40mm offset?
Is not one function of a air suspension to make the ride smoother when no load is in the TV and level the vehicle when its loaded?
I ask for the rims because its one point of what i talked about with Gray and the original Ford rims are not the best looking i have ever seen. I would prefer the Vision Assassins in Chrome. 9x20, offset 12mm. But mean 40mm inlet now +40mm offset or -40mm offset?
Similar threads
