Snapped a Leaf Spring: Axles out of position

BruteForce

Well-known member
2 weeks ago, the wife and I were set to head out for a camping trip. 1/4 mile from home, we see the 5'er smoking. Originally, we thought the brakes were locked up, so I pulled to the side of a busy road, jumped out to see what was amiss.

To my dismay, I immediately noticed that the front axle wheels (3x axle) made contact with the center axle wheels. The only way to safely get back home was to remove both front axle tires, holding the axle up with chains and tow back home; The Door Side front leaf spring snapped off, allowing the front axle to get pushed rearward.

Fast forward to today and I've since replaced all the front axle leaf springs, Ubolts and associated parts & bolts. What I'm seeing though is that the rear axle seems to be pushed forward about .5 inches. I'm wondering if I jack up at the frame near the rear axle, remove the tires -- if I can force the axle back into its normal position.

/so glad this didn't happen on the freeway at 65mph!
 

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Can you take a picture? Do you have a shackle flipped the wrong way?


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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
Ya picture would help.
If it is the rear axle actually moved forward it would be a bigger problem. The rear axle leaf springs is solid mounted with 1 bolt on each side to the rear hangers so those springs should not move forward at all however the center axle has shackles front and rear so if they have flipped like Erika is saying then that axle could be pulled back.
Or if the axle has actually moved on the leaf springs then you have sheered off you center alignment pin in the spring pack and it will need to be replaced along with your u-bolt to be on the safe side.


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hriker

Well-known member
A few weeks ago I had the rear axle shift on our Landmark because the centering pin broke. As it turned out the axles actually shifted at least slightly at all the u-bolts. It was recommended that all the u-bolts and centering pins be replaced. I had the work completed at a truck and trailer suspension repair shop. It was a pricey repair but now they are all replaced and we should have no more problems with the axles.

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richheck

Seasoned Member
On must be careful when backing a coach over curbs or other surface elevations being the shackles are trailing the springs in the forward position allowing the shackel to relieve the pressure created against the spring in the forward position. When backing, the shackle is in the leading position and will not relieve the pressure the wheel creates when forced again the elevated objects and can cause the spring to snap because of this pressure. It is wise to make ramps to eleviate this pressure when backing over curbs etc.
 

BruteForce

Well-known member
20160905_093149.jpg
Rear axle with tire removed and position of Flex-Axle.

20160905_093159.jpg
Rear retaining pin on rear axle

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Front & Center Axle position. I can get 4 fingers between tires, whereas only 3 (barely) between center & rear axle.

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Space between Center and Rear axle (3 fingers)

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Space between front & center axle (4 fingers)
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
Does it look like the axle has slid forward looking underneath where the u-bolt hold the axle to the leaf springs. You should be able to see some rusty marks from where it was to where it is now if it has moved at all.

You could also measure from the axle to the spring eye holes both sides to see if they are the same.


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BruteForce

Well-known member
Does it look like the axle has slid forward looking underneath where the u-bolt hold the axle to the leaf springs. You should be able to see some rusty marks from where it was to where it is now if it has moved at all.

You could also measure from the axle to the spring eye holes both sides to see if they are the same.


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Nothing bent, UBolts haven't moved, so I'm going to guess the other leaf springs are just worn out causing a chain reaction in the Equalizers..
 

Bones

Well-known member
Check your tires for tread separation and failure. They will cause this same symptom. You may have to measure them.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I'm surprised that you just have basic equalizers, with no shock absorbing components. Also, these basic equalizers seem pretty prone to cracking or breaking. I would look for new equalizers from Lippert, MorRyde or Dexter with shock absorbing components.
 

BruteForce

Well-known member
14355515_10210796280366756_3619208730076482007_n.jpg
*At the alignment shop today.

So, today I was able to replace the remainder of the leaf springs, shackles and U-bolts and Equalizers. The equalizers were worn through pretty bad where the bolt went through. I then immediately took my rig to a big-rig Alignment shop where they told me 3 of 6 tires were off camber to the left (non-door side) and are now all tracking straight (almost $1000 spent today on these items).

Oddly, my rear axle is still just as close to the center as it was prior. Maybe the factory shipped my rig like this and I'm just noticing? I'm still almost 1" closer between rear tires and center tires than I am from front tires to center tires. /Ugh!
 

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Check your tires for tread separation and failure. They will cause this same symptom. You may have to measure them.


What Bones said!

If the axles are now aligned properly and they are still closer together, check the tires or have them checked for broken belts within the tires. This may be visible as a slight bulge on the tread, which you might only notice by comparing the tread as it curves around the sidewall. Is any of it stretched? Is the tread pattern evenly spaced across the tire? Run your hands around the tire surface and see if you can notice any variations.

Here are pics of our bulging tire we caught:


IMG_6066.jpg
Notice right where tire meets the chock, there's a slight bulge across the tread, and the spacing is much wider between the raised sections.

IMG_6054.jpg
Notice the stretched tread as it wraps around the sidewall at the top of the tire, vs the bottom.
 
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HornedToad

Well-known member
I wish I would have read this when it was posted on 9/7...

On must be careful when backing a coach over curbs or other surface elevations being the shackles are trailing the springs in the forward position allowing the shackel to relieve the pressure created against the spring in the forward position. When backing, the shackle is in the leading position and will not relieve the pressure the wheel creates when forced again the elevated objects and can cause the spring to snap because of this pressure. It is wise to make ramps to eleviate this pressure when backing over curbs etc.

9/12 Quote from my post in the "Hanger Problem" thread...

It's my fault (the broken hanger) and I'll admit it... we recently moved and I was cleaning all the empty boxes from my garage, I opened the ramp and threw them inside the railing for a short trip to the clubhouse dumpsters. To get closer, so I didn't have to walk too far, I back over a curb and I'm sure that's what did it???

You can learn things the hard way like me... or the easy way by following experienced RVer's advice!!!
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
I have to back ours over a curb to park it in our side yard, however it is a sloped curb same as the curb on my driveway.

I think if you are careful you can go over a curb without damaging anything.
 
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