Solar panel & inverter wiring

[beekeepers]

We boondock a lot in Arizona in the winter. Our present fifth wheel has three solar panels, an inverter, and four golf cart batteries. We plan on purchasing a Big Country 3250TS. Our dealer has been in contact with Heartland and they do not seem to be interested in pre-wiring for solar from the roof to the battery compartment, nor are they interested in pre-wiring for the inverter. Has any Big Country or Big Horn owner have experience with running solar wires and inverter wires without destroying the fifth wheel?

 

[jimtoo]

HI Bob,

First, Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and hopefully to the family of owners. You will find a lot of great people here and lots of information.

I think you should contact your supplier of the solar panels and inverter as to help with installation. The factory is pretty much on a certain build as per engineering specs. It would be a whole new thing for them to install special wiring for solar panels. It's just not something they do on a regular basis. If you have them on your rig now, contact the ones that installed them for help.

I'm sure someone else will give you some information or contacts also.

Jim M

 

[SmokeyBare]

There are several who have installed Solar Systems in their Fifth Wheel.

If you do a search on the forum you'll locate plenty of posts.

I installed 4 panels with the wires going down through the Refrigerator vent. The wires on the roof were UV protected type. (my Fridge is not in a slide room) I attached a junction block at the rear of the Fridge... and ran the wires through the basement... then across the basement along side one of the Aluminum joice/rafter... going through the front basement wall... to the Controller.

Some have used a Plumbing vent pipe on the roof for a wire chanel... drilling a hole somewhere below to pull the wires out of the pipe... and using a good caulking to seal the hole from leaking any unwanted gas... It all depends on where you want the wires to be run.

I installed the Inverter inside the front storage area... same place I put 4 - 6 Volt battery bank. I ran through plastic conduit the electrical wires that were required between the electrical breaker box and the Inverter. These I also ran along side of one of the Aluminum floor Joice/Rafters.

I installed the control panel for the Inverter... inside the closet by the entry door of the RV.

I suggest you save your Panels... your Inverter... Your Controller.... and if you can with out doing damage to your RV... any of the wires. I would leave the brackets on the old RV... so you don't create a leak... and just buy new ones for the installation.

Good Luck with your project !!

 

[SmokeyBare]

Here's a few photos...

 

[RVerFulltime]

Solar

We do NOT use the power grid in this Country. Approximately 90% of the year we use solar energy. Last winter in the NV, AZ, and CA area, we logged in approximately 30 hours on our Honda generator for the entire winter, so solar works great.

Might want to check out this website...

http://www.starlightsolar.com/contact.htm

They are friendly people just to talk to for information.

After our experience with Heartland, we would NOT ask them to do anything special, unless you want it done wrong.

 

[kitfoxii]

Solar panel and inverter wiring

I have two 120 watt panels on the roof of my 3055RL. I ran 10 gage wire down the washer/dryer vent located on the front right side of the roof. By cutting the vent pipe in the front closet I was able to fish the wires through the pipe and out to my solar regulator which I located on the closet sidewall. From the street side front battery/hydraulic compartment I found an existing hole in the top that went through the bedroom floor and came out in the the wire passage-way underneath the bedroom chest-of-drawers (I would have drilled a hole up in this location, but found one there already). By removing the front bottom lower drawer, I was able to feed up two conductor 10 gage stranded solar wire from the bottom.I bent it slightly so it would go forward when pushing from the bottom. It was easy to find the wire with the drawer out of the way, then route the wire through the access hole leading to the closet area where my solar regulator is located.

The wires in the front compartment are connected to the the batteries via the factory battery terminations. The result was a very neat installation.

I mounted my 1750 watt inverter in the front wall of the basement storage compartment and was able to feed the big inverter input cables through the existing access hole used for backup access to the hydraulic pump ( I still have enough space in the hole to allow use of the drill backup drive to the pump). I wired the inverter output to a 50 amp transfer switch which I mounted on the back wall of the basement storage compartment. I used the existing vent on that wall to feed the wires between the fuse box, input power cord and inverter.

To complete installation of transfer switch wiring, I removed the fuse box from the bottom wall by the entrance door, which gave me room to work. Then I removed the shore power input wires from the fuse box and wired them to the normally open side of the transfer switch input. I wired the normally closed transfer switch input to the inverter output. Finally, I wired the transfer switch output to the fuse box 50 amp input where the power cord was originally connected.

I put the inverter remote control switch below the fantastic vent control on the side wall going up to the bedroom, then put fuse box back in its original location. Everything looks like it belongs there and the only change you can see inside the trailer is the inverter control switch.

With the transfer switch, if shore power is not connected the inverter powers the AC; while, if shore power is connected it powers the AC.

I wired the inverter into only one phase of AC so that the inverter can't power the air conditioner or the converter (I had to switch the phase the converter was wired to accomplish this, I did this by moving it to a different circuit breaker within the fuse box. This is easy to do when you have the fuse box out. I swapped it with a circuit similar in power demand).

Chuck Keskimaki
2010 Bighorn 3055RL, 2001 Chevrolet 2500HD D/A

 

[gdog]

Good day
We installed a 130 watt panel on the roof beside our bathroom vent (2009 3055 model).
I found that when the cap was removed on the vent that the stack can be moved slightly to the left or right by wiggling it. This wiggling allowed me to run the wire down beside the stack instead of drilling a hole in the stack and later sealing it for gasses.
This vent is exactly behind our closet which houses all of the switches for tip outs, pumps etc. Our model has a cupboard in the bathroom which you can remove to expose the wire run down the stack. As a result the solar panel controller could be installed in the utilities cupboard. Looks great.
Inverter will be installed shortly.
gdog

 

[beekeepers]

solar panel and inverter wiring

kitfoxii (Chuck): Thank you very much for your info. You have done much the same as I had done on my present 5th wheel. With the new Big Country I was very apprehensive about violating the walls and drilling holes, etc., but I see from your experience it can be done without wrecking the appearance of the unit if you think things out and are careful. I was kind of surprised that when asked, the factory wasn't interested in doing some prewiring for the panels and then doing the same for the inverter wire. My plan is to install 8 Trojan golf cart batteries in the front compartment after building up a frame inside that would hold the weight. Putting in 4 120 watt panels on the roof. I think I will go with a 2500 watt inverter with a built in 3 stage charger (I have a 1500 watt one in my present unit with a 3 stage charger) and using a Blue Sky controller. I have an E meter now and the Blue Sky will give me the same info plus provide the controller for the panels. I have a Trace 30 amp controller now. Anyways, thanks for your suggestions and you can be assured you have helped me greatly.
JimToo: You are correct when you say the owner's forum is a great group with lots of info.
SmokeyBare: Thanks for the reply. On my present rig, I too ran the solar wires down the fridge vent, but with the 3250 the fridge is in the slide with no vent to the roof. I'm planning on putting 8 Trojans in the front compartment after I build up the floor with some angle iron and install my inverter close by. I'm not going to pirate my present equipment -- just leave it on the unit and sell it as is.
RVer Fulltime: Thanks for the lead on StarLight Solar. We also use a Honda generator for backup and probably get 20 hours each winter on it. It's great for those 2-3 day rainy cloudy spells you get in the desert occasionally. I'm intrigued by the factory upgrade Landmark frame & 85 gallon freshwater tank you mentioned.
GDog: Thanks for the reply. What a great group -- I got half a dozen replies to my request on solar and inverter install and all are great info. I sure like the idea of yours to run the wire down the side of the stack instead of inside the stack. Keep me informed on how you accessed the converter box and how you ran the wire to your new inverter. What kind of inverter did you choose and where did you locate the remote?

 

[gdog]

On the converter there is a second hook up that you can simply put the wire from the controller in to. Make sure you have the polarity correct. The converter is directly below the utility cupboard. For my situation I simply pulled out (carefully) both the AC and DC power panels and the convertor was right there.
It was a piece of cake.
I will be putting the inverter in the area where the hydraulics are located. The closer to the battery the better. Then I will be running a new wire and plug-in to a location that will be beneficial to plug in various 110 appliances.
gdog

 

[beekeepers]

RVerFulltime: I'm not too sure if you got my thank you for the information I asked for on the solar panels/inverter. All good information. I was wondering if you would have time to explain your Landmark frame and 85 gallon water tank. Is the Landmark frame quite a bit heavier duty than the Big Horn? How difficult was it to special order it, cost, etc. etc.? Thanking you in advance.

 

[Pulltab]

As Smokey said, I ran my wires down the plumbing vent into the basement.

 

[k6fn]

I have two 120 watt panels on the roof of my 3055RL. I ran 10 gage wire down the washer/dryer vent located on the front right side of the roof. By cutting the vent pipe in the front closet I was able to fish the wires through the pipe and out to my solar regulator which I located on the closet sidewall. From the street side front battery/hydraulic compartment I found an existing hole in the top that went through the bedroom floor and came out in the the wire passage-way underneath the bedroom chest-of-drawers (I would have drilled a hole up in this location, but found one there already). By removing the front bottom lower drawer, I was able to feed up two conductor 10 gage stranded solar wire from the bottom.I bent it slightly so it would go forward when pushing from the bottom. It was easy to find the wire with the drawer out of the way, then route the wire through the access hole leading to the closet area where my solar regulator is located.

The wires in the front compartment are connected to the the batteries via the factory battery terminations. The result was a very neat installation.

I mounted my 1750 watt inverter in the front wall of the basement storage compartment and was able to feed the big inverter input cables through the existing access hole used for backup access to the hydraulic pump ( I still have enough space in the hole to allow use of the drill backup drive to the pump). I wired the inverter output to a 50 amp transfer switch which I mounted on the back wall of the basement storage compartment. I used the existing vent on that wall to feed the wires between the fuse box, input power cord and inverter.

To complete installation of transfer switch wiring, I removed the fuse box from the bottom wall by the entrance door, which gave me room to work. Then I removed the shore power input wires from the fuse box and wired them to the normally open side of the transfer switch input. I wired the normally closed transfer switch input to the inverter output. Finally, I wired the transfer switch output to the fuse box 50 amp input where the power cord was originally connected.

I put the inverter remote control switch below the fantastic vent control on the side wall going up to the bedroom, then put fuse box back in its original location. Everything looks like it belongs there and the only change you can see inside the trailer is the inverter control switch.

With the transfer switch, if shore power is not connected the inverter powers the AC; while, if shore power is connected it powers the AC.

I wired the inverter into only one phase of AC so that the inverter can't power the air conditioner or the converter (I had to switch the phase the converter was wired to accomplish this, I did this by moving it to a different circuit breaker within the fuse box. This is easy to do when you have the fuse box out. I swapped it with a circuit similar in power demand).

Chuck Keskimaki
2010 Bighorn 3055RL, 2001 Chevrolet 2500HD D/A

great info.
where did you get the transfer sw or did you make it?
I have a large one a the house for emergencies and have been designing one as a project for fun..
good Rv'ing
jerry/k6fn

 

[k6fn]

inverter questions

Hello. say does your 1750 watt inverter provide all the power you need for dry camping ??
particularly have you ever tried your coffee pot with it ???
typical coffee pot is 1000 watts and that would equate to about 80 amp DC draw from the batteries..
just curious as im putting in a 2k..
do you happen to know your standby current draw ??? mine is about 3 amps..
thanks a bunch
jerry/Riverside, CA

 

[caissiel]

We only use the small appliances like TV stereo and entertaiment equipment. I toast with propane and all other equipment runs of DC or Propane. So I found that the slide fuse of my 3500RL was on all the slides plugs and 15Amp (1800 Watts). So I ran a 3 wire 14Ga conduit to the storage area where the Inverter is installed and put a 2 way switch and a plug. The position A of the switch is wired throught the 15amp fuse to the Slide Plugs. The Position B of the switch is wired from the new plug to the slide plugs. The new plug when connected to the inverter will now power the slide plugs. I made a 14Ga connector cable that plugs in the new plug and the inverter. There is no chance of reverse power to the fuse box as when the inverter is on the line it is isolated from the fuse box.
I like the Idea of routing the wire from the panels by the tank vent, sure beats fishing wires throught the roof. This solves my problem of running the wires back to the controler and the batteries.
Thanks for this wonderfull site.
My 1000W inverter standby draw is .3Amp