SOLVED: Atwood GC10A-4E Water Heater issue

DocFather

Well-known member
I am on my Maiden voyage in my Cyclone 4100. If I heat the water with Propane, my water temp at the pressure relief valve is 136 degrees (decent enough for showers). On the electric side, it is only 112 degrees (not terrible for a shower but not great)

I have checked the incoming voltage to the RV and it is 120v. I have not tried to get to the back of the water heater to see if it is also 120v coming to thr heater.

Any suggestions
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Atwood GC10A-4E Water Heater issue

Probably needs a new thermostat on the electric side.


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DocFather

Well-known member
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Atwood GC10A-4E Water Heater issue

Probably needs a new thermostat on the electric side.


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I believe there is only one thermostat, set at 140 degrees. Someone told me to check the incoming power at the back of the water heater and see of the voltage is the same 120 as the rest of the camper. I haven't done that yet.

Thanks for the reply
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Atwood GC10A-4E Water Heater issue

The Suburbans have 2 thermostats as pictured here. I'm not sure about the Atwoods. Have you checked the manual for your model? The parts listing would likely show it if there are separate thermostats.

Under Reset Cover.jpg
 

DocFather

Well-known member
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Atwood GC10A-4E Water Heater issue

The Suburbans have 2 thermostats as pictured here. I'm not sure about the Atwoods. Have you checked the manual for your model? The parts listing would likely show it if there are separate thermostats.

View attachment 26256

A rep at Atwood told me that there is only one thermostat. He wanted me to make sure there was 12v coming into the heater and there is. Yet, there is a 20 degree difference from elec to gas. I am calling them again tomorrow. If they will send me a new thermostat/ECO kit, I will replace them and see if that helps. It is a simple 5 minute switch-out and a lot less gas and waqrranty $$ for Atwood or Heartland. I'll post the results for ya. Thanks again
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Atwood GC10A-4E Water Heater issue

Here's an Atwood wiring diagram that shows a single thermostat. What's not clear is how the single thermostat could drive two temperature results, unless maybe the board is where the problem sits.

But it looks like the thermostat interrupts power to the board when it opens.

Hmm...wonder if the gas valve isn't closing right away when power is removed.

Atwood Wiring Diagram.jpg
 
Last edited:

DocFather

Well-known member
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Atwood GC10A-4E Water Heater issue

Here's an Atwood wiring diagram that shows a single thermostat. What's not clear is how the single thermostat could drive two temperature results, unless maybe the board is where the problem sits.

But it looks like the thermostat interrupts power to the board when it opens.

Hmm...wonder if the gas valve isn't closing right away when power is removed.

View attachment 26332

Thanks. I think my heating element is bad. Thus the temp difference.
 
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Atwood GC10A-4E Water Heater issue

I have the same 4100 and same problem, water isnt warm enough for wife at 100% hot water only. Did you find a solution to the problem through Atwood/Heartland?
 

DocFather

Well-known member
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Atwood GC10A-4E Water Heater issue

I have the same 4100 and same problem, water isnt warm enough for wife at 100% hot water only. Did you find a solution to the problem through Atwood/Heartland?

Yessir, it turned out to be the Bypass valve on the rear of the Atwood. Turned it off and voila, HOT showers finally.
 
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Atwood GC10A-4E Water Heater issue

Thanks for the response. Exactly which valve are you speaking of? I want to try and fix mine as well.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Atwood GC10A-4E Water Heater issue

Thanks for the response. Exactly which valve are you speaking of? I want to try and fix mine as well.

The Hot Water Heater Bypass is part of the winterizing setup. If the Bypass valve is partially engaged, it'll mix cold water with the heated water coming out of the water heater. Some trailers use a single Bypass lever in the UDC. Others have a set of 3 valves inside the plumbing area behind the water heater.

There's more info in the Water Systems User Guide.
 
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Atwood GC10A-4E Water Heater issue

Thanks that was what I understood about the bypass. But I couldn't find it on my cyclone 4100. I took the panel off the inside of the inside of the storage compartment where the vacuum inlet is and looked behind the water heater. Sure enough heartland left the bypass completely open allowing the cold water to mix 50% with the hot water coming out of heater. I closed the bypass and now have scalding hot water! Another win for heartland! 6 down, probably a dozen more fixes I haven't noticed yet haha!
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Atwood GC10A-4E Water Heater issue

Sure enough heartland left the bypass completely open
I think trailers may be winterized before leaving the plant since no one can predict whether they'll encounter freezing weather prior to being sold. The dealer is probably responsible for delivering it to you in operating condition, AND most definitely should have shown you the winterizing procedure, including location of the valves.
 
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Atwood GC10A-4E Water Heater issue

That makes sense. Our dealer was terrible all around and didn't show us anything. They did a horrible job on pdi. All of the problems we noted when we purchased the trailer weren't fixed when we picked it up a week later after their "7 day pdi". I have epoxied all of the door frames and rehung 2 doors. Rewired the sat stuff they didn't install correctly, ran HDMI cables, as well as a dozen other fit and finish issues.
I still love the trailer but come on, this is starting to get a little ridiculous.
 

oscar

Well-known member
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Atwood GC10A-4E Water Heater issue

I think trailers may be winterized before leaving the plant since no one can predict whether they'll encounter freezing weather prior to being sold. The dealer is probably responsible for delivering it to you in operating condition, AND most definitely should have shown you the winterizing procedure, including location of the valves.

This. (mine did).
 
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