SOLVED: Water Leak from Under Fresh Tank

[Ramjet15x]

Well I pulled a boner,
I was filling tanks and was distracted about the time things get close to full. Left hose run for an extra 5 mins or so in opening, it wasn't tight and water over flowed back out filler like normal
Nothing seem out of order but noticed a strong trickle out of black cover underside which didn't stop until I drained tank to half full.
any thoughts before I pull it out?

 

[danemayer]

Re: Water Leak from Under Fresh Tank

You might drill a couple of 1/4" holes to allow water to drain. Just be very careful with the drill since you don't know what's on the other side. You don't want to damage a wire or pex line, or tank. The coroplast is less than 1/4" thick. Before drilling, wrap tape around the drill bit about 3/8" from the tip so you know when you're just barely through.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Re: Water Leak from Under Fresh Tank

I agree with Dan. Any water leaks including rain water will stay in the coroplast. Drill a hole in the low spots and the water will drain out.

 

[TandT]

Re: Water Leak from Under Fresh Tank

I have a similar problem. If I drive with a full fresh tank ( which I rarely ever do), water will slosh out and leak from the coroplast.
I'm suspecting that I may have an extra hole on top of the fresh tank, as some others have found.
In one of my spare moments (Ha), I will pull the underbelly and take a look. Trace

 

[Ramjet15x]

Re: Water Leak from Under Fresh Tank

Thanks guys,
but found problem after removing the corroplast, the crossover tube between the tanks had split.
It is a white with green hose with double clamps that split at edge of clamps, seems to have tension on it and pulled apart.
What a ignorant place to get to as there are 2 cross-members and a floor truss in 5" space

 

[astairs]

Re: Water Leak from Under Fresh Tank

Hmmm. sounds familiar as what i just found a few weeks ago, in the back end of my trailer. The insulation was saturated with water..

 

[Jimsryker]

Just got my Cyclone 3010 back with this same issue. Again, it was the cross over tube. The ends of the pipe were not square and the clamps were on "half heartedly". They put a new piece of tubing and silicone in and double clamped it after replacing the damaged plywood underneath. Mine is a new rig and the first fill I made showed water leaking from the membrane underneath, not the overflow tubes. I stopped and even though it showed 3/4 full, we ran out of water after the 2nd day. I see so many posts about this with this manufacturer that clearly it is a design flaw and the workmanship is lacking... I plan to pull the underside cover and get a good understanding of what's happening and also to re-engineer this item.

 

[wdk450]

From your description I wonder if a mechanical strain relief loop of tubing is needed. I don't know if you have the spacing between the tanks to do it, maybe changing to right angle nipples would help. Of course, the loop should sag downwards to allow tank equalization.
One trick I have used lately on my hose end barb fittings is to wrap them with a loop of silicone rescue tape before pushing on the hose. I think this makes a larger hose-to- fitting sealing area.

 

[Thadandrachelb]

Like the original poster, I overfilled my fresh tank. I now have intermittent leaking from a hole in the coroplast, which I am assuming was caused by my carelessness. I cannot find an obvious place where leak is coming from via basement access panel. I'm thinking I will need to look behind coroplast to fully explore. Any tips for removing that, since there are plumbing lines (i.e., gas and sewer) that are connected to the bottom of trailer through the coroplast? 2009 Cyclone 3950

 

[TravelTiger]

Like the original poster, I overfilled my fresh tank. I now have intermittent leaking from a hole in the coroplast, which I am assuming was caused by my carelessness. I cannot find an obvious place where leak is coming from via basement access panel. I'm thinking I will need to look behind coroplast to fully explore. Any tips for removing that, since there are plumbing lines (i.e., gas and sewer) that are connected to the bottom of trailer through the coroplast? 2009 Cyclone 3950

An impact wrench is a must to loosen the bolts. A auto creeper is also very helpful, so you can maneuver easily under the rig. Danemayer suggested using a few 5 gallon buckets to help hold the coroplast up in place when reattaching the bolts.
If you cut an access panel (three sides of a square) in the coroplast, use window flashing tape from a home improvement store to reseal. Poke small test holes first before cutting, to make sure you are not cutting wires or into a tank.

Others may chime in....


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[Dpa4747]

I own a 2012 Heartland cyclone 3712 just recently I've noticed some water dripping out from the underbelly I pulled off all the chloroplast and found a leak on the upper rear tankthe connection is where the top vent goes off to...... if you overfill the coaches water it's okay because there are breather valve that allow the water to come out to topwhen I was under the coach I found that the two tanks are separated about 4 feet apart with a ten foot connector hose that isn't perfectly level so the tanks can never truly drain down and the sensors will always be in accurate im 5 months out of warranty and I'm going to contact heartlands customer service to see if there's something I can do about it I'm really disappointed in the work mentioned because if you can never drain both tanks evenly Heartland need to discontinue using two tanks and only use one tank there's not any reason why they can't ship the black tank and the freshwater tank and have one gigantic tank in one location