Spare tire mount to ramp door of RG28

[PioneerDrone]

I would like to know if anyone has mounted a spare tire to a toy hauler ramp door? I want to keep my underside clearance and the tongue doesn’t have enough room. In my research I have seen it done on other brands by their owners but they have been cautioned about the weakness of the ramp. I have also looked at the BAL underside tire system and it looks good, but I do want to keep my clearance. Thoughts?

 

[NP_Chief]

I'm not familiar with the Pioneer, but are you sure the spare is up all the way? On my Torque, the tire goes all the way up in between the frame.

 

[PioneerDrone]

I have an enclosed underbelly so I can’t mount between the frame. This seems to be a curse of my life, nothing is easy. Thx for the reply!


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[Dodge_Bob]

Maybe if you put a 2" reese on the bumper, find or have a mount for the spare fabricated to where its hinged and drop down and can clear for the ramp.

 

[PioneerDrone]

Hello Bob and thanks for the idea, but I don’t have a rear bumper due to the ramp. I think my options are:
1) Mount to ramp door
2) Mount under tongue
3) Mount in pickup bed.

The safest way is going to be in the pickup. I want to build an enclosed compartment on the tongue (would clutter that area) and the ramp option would extend my length and not sure of structure integrity. I’m probably left with the pickup as best solution.


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[Technorick]

i just purchased a RG26 (really 30) toy hauler and have been looking at the same issue.. My underbelly is enclosed with some vinyl material so i cant quite see where an after market Lippert tire carrier might fit.. The F150 has a roll top cover not a cap and id like to avoid placing the spare in the truck bed, truly the trailers spare belongs ON THE TRAILER! Lippert offers a cable run crank down bolt on - and one with optional slide storage drawers, but I'm not sure there is clearance...without removing the underbelly seals..

I too considered a jeep style bolt on mount to the ramp door, but the issues i suspect i would encounter are:

• Ramp door integrity (may not hold it and the weight of the tire might effect the hinge and the spring load)
• Swing arm mount that might mount to the passenger side and swing over to the ramp door. This way the wooden frame stud closest to the ramp door on the passenger side bears most the weight. wood, that's the issue! will it? i suspect the wooden from is 2x3 or less?
• Create a steel Y mount that attaches to the frame at the battery box and folds back to the diamond plate , but I've installed two batteries and with the weight disti hitch there is little room for that.
• Bolt on tire carrier to the 90 Degree angled front wall above the diamond plate? are the studs behind the corrugated strong enough for that? as mentioned elsewhere in the Pioneer forum, that diamond plate isn't fastened very well and there is 1/4 play when you push on it... i suspect they may want that panel to float as heat expands it?
• I've seen an after market above the battery Generator tray, might be able to mount that and add the tire up there.. not very air flow efficient.. and would be odd looking..

Understanding the structural strength of the walls and the space in the underbelly would be helpful...

My wife told me to stop McGyvering and just put the spare tire (that i haven't even purchased yet) in the truck bed!

Any insights or ideas?

 

[Bogie]

Maybe if you put a 2" reese on the bumper, find or have a mount for the spare fabricated to where its hinged and drop down and can clear for the ramp.

Bob may have been on the right track. I don't have your trailer, but you might investigate the strength of the cross beam where the door hinges mounts. You may be able to have a custom bracket made that can attach to that beam that is hinged to drop the tire down. That way the beam takes most of the vertical weight. The hinged arm would have to be kept up during travel by the ramp. A large metal plate backing on the inside of the ramp would distribute the load of holding the tire up during travel. That way the load wouldn't be concentrated on a single point. Just my 2¢.

 

[Technorick]

Bob may have been on the right track. I don't have your trailer, but you might investigate the strength of the cross beam where the door hinges mounts. You may be able to have a custom bracket made that can attach to that beam that is hinged to drop the tire down. That way the beam takes most of the vertical weight. The hinged arm would have to be kept up during travel by the ramp. A large metal plate backing on the inside of the ramp would distribute the load of holding the tire up during travel. That way the load wouldn't be concentrated on a single point. Just my 2¢.

good idea. There is no bumper on the Toyhauler. I took pics but because I’m new here I can upload. However if I were to bolt on round or square sockets like the stake slots in a pick up truck bed I could drop in bracket as you described that rides on the frame not the door. Perhaps with pins. It would require I remove the bracket tire attached prior to opening the ramp but that’s ok because I wouldn’t be opening the back to get the bikes out until I was set at my destination. I’ll see what I can do and report back.

 

[SabreSkull]

I've got an RG26 and just built a mount on the tongue behind the propane tanks (had to move the tanks forward to have enough clearance). I have two battery boxes one on either side of the mount, works great and is all out of the way.