Started the Brake/Bearing Job

[Ray LeTourneau]

For starters, I'm only working on one side of the trailer at a time due to not having enough equipment to properly support both sides elevated.

I pulled one wheel initially to verify the bearing numbers. My intent is/was to replace all bearings, races, seals and the brakes. I have purchased the Dexter backing plates and self adjusting brakes at the Rally.

The inner (large) bearing is a 25580 and the outer (small) bearing is a 14125A.

The inner bearing show minor signs of wear and pitting so those are a no brainer. Also the race for the inner bearing was easy to remove.

The outer bearings look good. No pitting or discoloration. I was planning on replacing them anyway but I've run into a snag. There is no surface on the back of the race to drive it out with a drift pin.
So here's my question. Has anyone replaced the outer bearing and race on the 6K-7K hubs and if so, how do I get the race out?

I haven't pulled the second wheel on the right yet only because I wanted to verify the bearing numbers.

 

[Willym]

That's strange, I replaced an outer bearing on my old 7k axles soon after new as some of the rollers were pitted (manufacturing defect I think) I was able to tap them out from behind with a sharp edged drift. There was just enough of the raceway protruding and it wasn't a tight fit. You may even need to use something like a screwdriver blade to catch the edge. When I bought the new bearing, it came in two parts - the outer raceway came separately. In theory, I could have left the old one in as it appeared to be in good shape, but I was trained to always replace the complete assembly.
Good luck.

 

[DougS]

Ray, I had success in driving the outer race out with a piece of 1/2 inch square stock of metal. I asked a local bearing store and that is what they use. I now carry this square punch and an extra set of bearings and a seal. I also carry a seal puller and bearing drivers.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

There is actually no surface to get a tool on. I'm giving thought to grinding a small area on opposite sides to get a small drift pin on.

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[porthole]

Ray - did you clean all the grease out? Usually on hubs with no reveal for the bearing they have small half moons cut into the seat, just big enough fror a drift.

Is there zero amount of race visable? Even with just a minimun amount of race showing that is enogh for a drift pin. Just use it at an extreme angle, 45 degrees or so.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

All cleaned out but no little slots. I'll try sharpening my drift but the area is almost smooth where the race seats. If a sharp drift won't do it, a little deburring bit will be next.

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[Ray LeTourneau]

Problem Solved. Went to the local tool shed where they sell everything from cheap to professional. I bought a little 1/4" high speed rotary file and made two little slots, half moons like Duane mentioned, opposite each other in the hub so I could get a drift on the race. Race is out and new bearings are on order. Where there's a will, there's a way.

 

[mobilcastle]

I have the same bearings. I will look when I pull mine apart in reference to removing the race if I need to. Ray, I am very interested to see how well those new brakes work. Can you still manually adjust the self adjusting or do you have to pull the hub? Keep us posted on your progress-Steve

 

[hoefler]

Another very successful way to remove races, using a MIG welder, run a bead of weld all the way around the center of the race, turn the hub over and let cool. As it cools, the weld bead will shrink, causing the race to become undersized and fall out. Works every time!!

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

With my luck, I'd weld the race to the hub.;-)


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[SilverRhino]

With my luck, I'd weld the race to the hub.;-)


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I was picturing the same thing happening!!

 

[NWILSON]

For anyone shopping for Timken replacement bearings PartsGeek has VERY good prices. Just enter "Timken xxxxxx" in the search box if you have the Timken number.
I've ordered parts for our cars from them several times with delivery within 2 days every time!

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Re: Started the Brake/Bearing Job/Complete

All is Complete! The bearings arrived Monday afternoon so I finished the door side Monday and did the off door side yesterday. I was prepared to replace all the bearings but after a thorough inpection, I only needed to replace three bearings/races. One wheel needed both inner & outer and another just needed the inner bearing. All brakes were replaced but the OEM's still had a lot of material remaining. I did find one wheel that the brake wire was broken where it went into the backing plate.
Now I need to find a lonely road to go out and burnish the new shoes in.
In n my opinion, the Dexter seals are not up to the standard of a C/R seal but appear to be better than OEM. I had C/R seals till now and everything looked good. Heck, even the old bearing grease didn't look that bad. Hopefully the Dexter seals work as well as the C/R.

 

[porthole]

Re: Started the Brake/Bearing Job/Complete

Ray, not for nothing, but if I had to change just 1 out of 4 bearings I would have changed all 4.
My background is in the automotive - light truck field, and my experience has always been, if one is bad the rest will most likely follow.

 

[mobilcastle]

Re: Started the Brake/Bearing Job/Complete

Ray, You say your grease looks pretty good. Do you like to change your grease by time or mileage? Hope your new brakes work well.

All is Complete! The bearings arrived Monday afternoon so I finished the door side Monday and did the off door side yesterday. I was prepared to replace all the bearings but after a thorough inpection, I only needed to replace three bearings/races. One wheel needed both inner & outer and another just needed the inner bearing. All brakes were replaced but the OEM's still had a lot of material remaining. I did find one wheel that the brake wire was broken where it went into the backing plate.
Now I need to find a lonely road to go out and burnish the new shoes in.
In n my opinion, the Dexter seals are not up to the standard of a C/R seal but appear to be better than OEM. I had C/R seals till now and everything looked good. Heck, even the old bearing grease didn't look that bad. Hopefully the Dexter seals work as well as the C/R.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Re: Started the Brake/Bearing Job/Complete

Ray, not for nothing, but if I had to change just 1 out of 4 bearings I would have changed all 4.
My background is in the automotive - light truck field, and my experience has always been, if one is bad the rest will most likely follow.

I can't disagree with that. The bearings I replaced only had a few rollers that were slightly pitted. The bearings not replaced were surprisingly clean. Not one little pit that I could find and no discoloration at all and the races were the same.
When we travel, I check the hubs frequently. Time was a factor for me so at least if I need to replace any bearings in the future, I have them handy. The brakes were really the main concern.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Re: Started the Brake/Bearing Job/Complete

Ray, You say your grease looks pretty good. Do you like to change your grease by time or mileage? Hope your new brakes work well.

I guess a little bit of both. I had been doing it annually but every time I did, things really looked good. because of that, I put it off for a couple seasons. Last summer we left the trailer in FL and there was a couple days of flooding that concerned me. Once I was able to get the rig jacked up and made sure the wheels turned and brakes worked, I thought it best to bring the trailer home and do bearings and brakes. I was pretty amazed how well everything looked after removing the hubs.
We may try selling the trailer soon and now I can say that the new owner won't/shouldn't need to worry about the running gear.