Stationary Bighorn

[jeffreymhardy]

I've got a 2014 Bighorn which is now stationary on an annual site at a campground. I bought it a few months ago and had the dealer deliver for me, since I don't have a truck right now and no means to tow it. That's fine for the next few years until I retire because I don't plan to move it. Problem is, I know I shouldn't just let it sit there on the tires and never move, otherwise when I DO go to move I'll have bad tires. I guess I've got two options:

1. Find someone local who I can pay to move it a couple times a year or more just to change the position the camper is resting on. This will be a major pain in the butt and require that I'm constantly having to prep it to be moved, get it back on the site just the right way, etc.

2. The other thing someone suggested was removing and storing the tires and basically putting it on blocks. My question is, could I simply use the six point leveling system already in the rig to hold the whole weight of the camper? Or is that just too much weight to do that with. And if I can't do that, where exactly should I put blocks?

Any help is appreciated

 

[cookie]

You could use the hydraulic leveling system to support your rig. It can handle it.
But if it is going to be stationary for a couple of years I would suggest using the leveling system to raise the coach and then lower it onto some leveled concrete blocks.
As far as prolonging the life of the tires they may be out dated by the time you tow. Tires do have a life span.
And if they are the Tow Max you will want to get rid of them asap anyway.

Peace
Dave

 

[Kathi-27]

I would level it with auto level system. install blocks next to level pads about 1/4-1/2 gap. then retract jacks. then jack up each axle and remove tires. that what I do with my race trailer in off season

 

[jeffreymhardy]

Good point on the age of the tires. They're already three years old so maybe I just need to plan on replacing them when I move it

 

[happykraut]

If you are concerned about the Level Up, you could periodically raise the BH with the LU and rotate each wheel a quarter turn and then set it back down. That way you would exercise the LU and keep the tires from getting a flat spot. Sounds crazy, but who knows?

 

[danemayer]

Since the tires will age out and need to be replaced when you're ready to move, when you level, just extend the rear jacks enough to take part of the weight off the tires. They don't need to be completely off the ground. Then if something comes up and the trailer needs to be moved a short distance for some reason, you still have wheels and tires in place.

 

[Lou_and_Bette]

If you are concerned about the Level Up, you could periodically raise the BH with the LU and rotate each wheel a quarter turn and then set it back down. That way you would exercise the LU and keep the tires from getting a flat spot. Sounds crazy, but who knows?

Bernie, doesn't sound "crazy" to me, thought the exact same solution when I read initial post. However, given the tires are 3 years old already, I strongly agree with Dave's suggestion to replace the tires when they begin traveling.

 

[happykraut]

Bernie, doesn't sound "crazy" to me, thought the exact same solution when I read initial post. However, given the tires are 3 years old already, I strongly agree with Dave's suggestion to replace the tires when they begin traveling.

Lou, I agree with you and Dave, but I was thinking more of the tires not getting replaced.

 

[jeffreymhardy]

Great ideas folks...I think what I'll do is merge a couple of these to make what will be the best plan for my scenario. Use the jacks to periodically raise the existing tires enough to spin them a bit to try to keep them in the best shape I can in the event I need to make an unplanned move, but just plan on replacing them when I actually know I'm going to move several years down the road.

The only hitch in this scenario (and maybe can't be avoided) is that when I DO move it in a few years, it will be to drive it to the dealer and trade it in on a MH. So it would be nice if I could avoid putting new tires on a rig I"m literally going to drive a hundred miles and turn in, but as I said it may just be part of the cost of doing this the way I'm doing it.

While I guess I COULD remove the tires altogether and store them, I'd still be dealing with tires that were 7-8 years old when I move it which I probably wouldn't be willing to risk. Especially when I'm trying to trade it in for the best value I can get.

 

[Piperflyer]

Don't raise the tires to far off the ground with the stabilizer jacks and have the axle's drop and the axle shackles reverse. Real pain in the neck to get them back where their suppose to be.

 

[JohnD]

While I guess I COULD remove the tires altogether and store them, I'd still be dealing with tires that were 7-8 years old when I move it which I probably wouldn't be willing to risk. Especially when I'm trying to trade it in for the best value I can get.

I would guess that if you stored them properly and used them when trade-in time comes you would probably be able to make that 100 mile jaunt to the dealership.

I wouldn't go 90 miles an hour on the highway with them, but probably take a good easy back road option instead.

However, if they are Towmax (aka- BlowMax) tires . . . then all bets are off!

Our first TT was 23 years old when we bought it and we owned it for 14 years . . . pulled it all over Colorado and to New Mexico a few times.

I don't know how old the tires were that were on it when we bought it, but they were still on it when we traded it in (didn't know any better in those days), and they were still going strong!

They were some off-brand light truck tire that I had never heard of . . . but made in the US of A!

Of course, they just don't make them like they used too . . .

 

[jeffreymhardy]

Thanks John -- It does seem like if I play my cards right I can actually achieve this without having to replace the tires which will have literally no road wear on them. I think my rig has Michelins on it but I'll check when I go next time.

 

[mlpeloquin]

You could use the hydraulic leveling system to support your rig. It can handle it.
But if it is going to be stationary for a couple of years I would suggest using the leveling system to raise the coach and then lower it onto some leveled concrete blocks.

Concrete blocks would be fine, but do not use cinder blocks. They are not designed to hold the weight
of a fifth wheel. Better to build 24X24 blocks out of 6X6 wood. This would be stable and will hold the weight.

 

[Kathi-27]

my race trailer was 2004 when I sold it in 2014 had orig tires. stored tires in basement every winter during off season. still looked good enough for 100 mile trip. buyer drove 300 miles home said had no problems.

 

[ndmac]

My Cyclone 4200 is also stationary at seasonal site. I run auto level periodically (every other month & spray with silicone spray on the exposed cylinders) I have my tires on 2x12's but I also have LU and keep the weight off of them and grease and spin them regularly. So far so good! two years and everything seems fine. When it moves again it will be traded in for Class A......counting the days.