Synthetic Oil

[sjs731]

I'm thinking about changing to Valvoline Premium Blue synthetic oil. Does anyone have any experience using this oil or any other synthetic oil in their TV? Pro, cons....let the conversation begin.

 

[Speedy]

What are you currently running and why do you think the Valvoline is a step up?

 

[recumbent615]

I've been running on on Mobile One in my Chevy 2500HD since I picked it up ( made the Dealer change the oil before I picked it up ) it now has +185K. I also ran it in my last Chevy Tahoe and had no engine problems from beginning to trade in @ 198K miles. It does cost a little more but I think it is worth the "insurance value" ...

Just my 2 cents.

Kevin

 

[Hastey]

I've been running ROTELLA T Synthetic ever since the truck was new. Changed it right after breakin.

 

[sunflower]

When I was running Cummins diesels in my dodges I used it all the time.I would go to a Cummins outlet and they had packages of oil, and all the filters in one set up.It made it simple to buy.I have not used it since,I now use mobile 1 syn. in my 6.0 chev.Is one better then the other probably not, but for sure are good.I like to think it did my Cummins good.

 

[Rickhansen]

I was alternating between Rotella T-5 (Synthetic and natural oil blend) in the summer, and Rotella T-6 (Full Synthetic) in the winter. I preferred (I thought) the full synthetic in the winter because it is rated as thinner oil, and would provide better lubrication on cold starts. I then noticed about 1.5 MPG better fuel mileage when running the T-6.

I did some reading on www.bobistheoilguy.com and was convinced that the synthetic is the way to go all the time.

Do the research and form your own opinions.

 

[jpajax]

You need to read what Hastey wrote at the end of his post. After breakin, that is what Cummins told me. It makes sense if you think about it, the rings need to seat before you put in a synthetic oil because it coats the walls with a film.

 

[GOTTOYS]

You need to read what Hastey wrote at the end of his post. After breakin, that is what Cummins told me. It makes sense if you think about it, the rings need to seat before you put in a synthetic oil because it coats the walls with a film.

I've been told that you should break the engine in on regular oil and not to put full synthetic in until around the 10,000 mile mark. I think most synthetics are pretty similar and if you change from one brand to another the engine won't know the difference. I had a Buick I drove for 197,000 miles using whatever oil was on sale. It still ran good and didn't use oil when I sold it. Regular maintenance is the key as much as anything...Don

 

[sjs731]

I currently run Valvoline conventional oil but as Rickhansen said I was thinking in the winter here in Wisconsin the thinner oil would be better. Also I have done some reading and of course everybody brags up their sythetic oil no matter who it is...Mobil, Shell, Valvoline. I have 72,000 miles on my truck so break in isn't an issue and I was just looking to opinions some of you may have. I have read that synthetic has benefits when towing heavy loads and high heat of motors. Rickhansen....thanks for the link. I'll do some more reading.

 

[TeJay]

I've had 35 years experience with oils and will only use Mobil 1 Synthetic. Over the years technology changes in everything. Many don't adjust to what they have always done just because they don't. I remember my Dad bought a new car in the 50's and it had a buzzer that went off if he got over 55 MPH. That was for the break in period. The auto industry is changing things to remove the human influence. COP (coil over plug) is used to remove the plug wire which fails and causes excessive emissions, miss fires, etc. Some differentials come out with synthetic oils for the life of the of the unit. Most automatics now use synthetics because it lasts longer and therefore reduces warranty repairs. Our 2010 F-150 came out with synthetic transmission oil and there is no service interval required. Back in 99 we owned a 37 foot Dutch Star motor home on a Ford chassis. The differential came with synthetic oil (no service required). I talked with the Son of the service manager of I think PAM Trucking here in Springdale. This is what they do with their 18 - wheelers. Install Mobil 1, change the filter I think every 10-K miles. Keep the oil filled and run it for 250,000 or so thousand, then change it. They have then sold the tractors to Russia. They are shipped to Russia, backed into factories, and hooked up to a generator and run until who knows when. Sounds pretty amazing. I know and trust the individuals involved and have no reason to believe that they are telling me a story. I ran my 1995 ISUZU truck for 155,000 miles. I put Mercon 5 (synthetic transmission oil) in my gear box and differential and ran Mobil 1. Never had a problem, no leaks, no runs, no problems. Perhaps the only caution I might have is to not use synthetics until 5-10K because of the seating of the rings. However I'm not really sure if it is really necessary. I don't know what the manufacturers could do to speed up the seating process. Do any of you remember when Mobil 1 first came out and they advertised 25-K oil changes??? I do. It never caught on because nobody believed that any oil was good enough to last that long. They backed off on that but I know the oil is as good as they say it is. Back in the 90's Corvette removed the oil cooler to save weight. The oil temps went up. They changed to Mobil 1 and the temps went back down. Guess what?? You buy a Corvette and it comes with Mobil 1 and the consumer pays for the oil changes. I go 10-15-K between changes so it does not really cost that much extra. Six quarts of oil and a filter $30.

Most Fords don't have a gas filler cap. Do you know why? People would not get them tight. The computer checks the fuel evap system and sense a leak. That would turn on the check engine light and people would take it into the dealer, tighten the cap and sent them on their way. That happened hundreds of thousands of times. So take the human out of the equation and remove the cap.
Today's engines are built much better than in the past (my opinion). They cost a lot more and I'm going to do what ever I can to assure that it lasts as long as possible. I'll use the best lubricant I can get.
My 2 cents worth.
TeJay

 

[lwmcguir]

Motorcraft® SAE 5W-40 Full Synthetic Diesel Motor Oil

Usage

• For light- and heavy-duty diesel engine applications
• Particularly recommended for use in Ford vehicles equipped with Power Stroke[SUP]®[/SUP] engines, such as trucks, buses and construction vehicles
• Recommended for use in Power Stroke[SUP]®[/SUP] diesel engines over a wide temperature range, from down to -20°F (-29°C) to up to 100°F (38°C).
• Designed for new-generation, low-emission diesel engines
• Can be used in older engines where the manufacturer recommends API Categories CD, CF-4, CG-4, CH-4, CI-4 and CI-4 plus
• Important note: Not for use in gasoline engines equipped with catalysts

Features

• High-performance motor oil for Ford diesel vehicles
• Meets American Petroleum Institute (API) Service Category CJ-4, required for use in diesel engines designed to meet 2007 on-highway exhaust emission standards and requiring ultra low sulfur diesel fuel
• Formulated with synthetic base oils and unique additive technology
• Satisfies Ford Motor Company warranty requirements, as well as those of most other domestic and import diesel engine manufacturers
• Helps provide excellent soot control
• Helps protect against wear, deposits, rust, corrosion, foaming, sludge formation, high-temperature oxidation and thickening
• Protects exhaust aftertreatment systems such as particulate filters
• Provides excellent performance in older-generation diesel engines operating on high-sulfur fuel
• Available in four (4) five-quart bottles or 55-gallon quantities

We use Synthetics in most of the vehicles and Tractors. Went to 500 hour intervals instead of 200 with good results.

 

[Hastey]

I've been told that you should break the engine in on regular oil and not to put full synthetic in until around the 10,000 mile mark. I think most synthetics are pretty similar and if you change from one brand to another the engine won't know the difference. I had a Buick I drove for 197,000 miles using whatever oil was on sale. It still ran good and didn't use oil when I sold it. Regular maintenance is the key as much as anything...Don

Most defiantly break in first. Last Christmas I bought DW a 2011 Subaru Outback. The first oil change the dealer did for free and recommended waiting until the next before switching to synthetic which would be approx 14,000 miles.

 

[Urban350]

The only thing I will ad is that if you live in a cold climate there is a night and day difference in cold starting with with synthetic.

 

[sjs731]

Thanks for all the replies. Lots of useful info just in time for me to get the oil changed.

 

[TedS]

lwmcguir, is the upper temperature limit really only 100F(38C)? My engine runs higher than that when fully warmed on a cold 20F day.

 

[porthole]

I started with synthetics when I had the GMC. After the first engine change with synthetic I went back to dino oil. I can change the oil 3 times for the cost of syn oil and I would rather change it the 3 times and know I have "fresher" oil.

I kept the syn in the trans and axles though. And have it ready for the power steering and brakes.

Only use syn in the motorcycle. And I keep the normal oil change interval. But we're only talking 20-24 ounces for the trans, 1 quart for the primary and 4 quarts fro the engine. Even with those small quantities it is still a $60 oil change, doing it myself.

 

[lwmcguir]

lwmcguir, is the upper temperature limit really only 100F(38C)? My engine runs higher than that when fully warmed on a cold 20F day.

They are talking about 24 hour ambient temps. The oil will withstand the normal diesel operating temps which always have to be in the 200 degree range and higher at times. If you are going to be operating in a hot dessert then you either need the 50 weight blend or a straight weight. Was a bit mis-leading for sure.

 

[Hastey]

Folks, I ran across this today in one of my Chilton's repair manuals so I scanned it and thought you might find it useful.

There are excellent synthetic and fuel efficient oils available that, under the right circumstances, can help provide better fuel mileage and better engine pro- tection. However, these advantages come ata price, which can be three or four times the price per quart ot conventional motor oils. Before pouring any synthetic oils into your vehicle’s engine, you should con- sider the condition oi the engine and the type of driving you do. Also, check the vehicles warranty conditions regarding the use of synthetics. Generally, it is best to avoid the use ot synthetic oil in both brand new and older, high mileage engines. New engines require a proper break-in, and the synthetics are so slippery that they can prevent this; most manufacturers recommend that you wait at least 5,000 miles before switching to a synthetic oil. Conversely, older engines with worn seals may tend to loose oil; synthetics will slip past worn parts more readily than regular oil, and will be lost faster. li your vehicle already leaks oil (due to worn seals or gaskets), it will probably leak more with a synthetic inside. Consider your type of driving. li most of your accumulated mileage is on the highway at higher, steadier speeds, a synthetic oil will reduce friction and prob- ably help delivery better luel mileage. Under such ideal highway conditions, the oil change interval can be extended, as long as the oil filter will operate effec- tively tor the extended life oi the oil. li the iilter can’t do its job tor this extended period. dirt and sludge will build up in your engine's crankcase, sump, oil pump and lines. no matter what type of oil is used. lt using synthetic oil in this man- ner, you should continue to change the oil filter at the recommended intervals. Vehicles used under harder, stop-and-go, short hop circumstances should always be serviced more frequently and for these vehicles synthetic oil may not be a wise investment. Because of the necessary shorter change interval needed tor this type oi driving, you cannottake advantage ot the long recommended change interval of most synthetic oils.

 

[Speedy]

I use to be in the Mobil 1 25000 mile camp when I had a 84 Isuzu Trooper TD. Changed the oil only twice a year summer/winter weight and filters every 3000. Never had any engine issues and sold it with 275K on it still running well. Averaged 30K a year in highway miles.

I have since been thinking about going with an oil centrifuge cleaning system. Problem is I currently do not drive enough miles to offset the cost versus standard oil changes. But it could be something to look into. http://dieselcraft.com/EngineOilCleaningOC25.php