David,
The information you've been given is accurate. Bolt torque is a function of bolt size, quality of steel, threads/inch & pitch, expected weight, lubrication on threads (if any) and probably many other factors. That being said use the chart you've been given on the previous message it will work. Also by torquing at 2-3 intervals it will assure that the nuts are not coming loose. If they are then you will re-torque them so they won't. It's not unusual to move several of the lug nuts each time you repeat the torque. After 2-3 times that will stop. Two other important aspects of this are : 1. They won't be so tight that you will have difficulty getting them off when and if you have to. 2. Even torque around the hub will assure even tension during heating and cooling. Variations in torque around a disc rotor hub will warp a rotor. When it cools the warp will become permanent which can result in pedal pulsations when breaks are applied.
Specific torques on anything mechanical is there for a reason. If a nut is to tight you exceed the elastic limit of the steel and reduce the clamping force. Too loose and it won't stay tight.
If you want a real eye opener regarding bolts look up, "torque to yield" bolts. These were adopted when the auto industry went to aluminum engines.
TeJay