The entrance door inside skin cracking up.

[Routemaster]

Has anyone here repaired the inside cracked-up skin on the door? I have not found a replacement part on the Lippert inter-web.

 

[sengli]

When mine went bad, from a crack, which happened during the winter cold. The entire door assembly was replaced under warranty. I was told at that time there were NO parts available, only the entire door assembly including the screen door.

 

[david-steph2018]

On our Road Warrior both entrance doors have the cracks. If you find anything let me know, please.

 

[Routemaster]

I found this, idea.

 

[LBR]

Both of our 2017 CY doors are also cracked/checked/crazed from being open while full-time boondocking in the SoCal/Az sun.... getting to the point that I have to repair this summer while back in Oregon. I was in deliberations as to what material to use that will be a one-time repair to look decent and withstand the elements. A few weeks ago, I mike'd a small piece of the material and got ~.030".

As of now, I'm tentatively planning on using metal-clad building flat stock (available in multiple colors and gauges)....so a 22 gauge will be my choice at .0299".

Pull a door and lay flat, tape the panel worst pieces together tightly, disassemble panel as carefully as possible for a pattern to transfer onto the metal, apply the measure twice/cut once theory, and spray glue a plastic vapor barrier onto the metal for assembly.

Tis' my plan as of now....that metal will keep it's color longer than I will, able to apply magnetics / decals / contact paper accents / etc that show outside when parked, and ourselves inside when closed.

While between skins, repair any inside foam that gets "disrupted" in the process. Full Custom different color than anyone elses, and a conversational piece to boot.

 

[david-steph2018]

Both of our 2017 CY doors are also cracked/checked/crazed from being open while full-time boondocking in the SoCal/Az sun.... getting to the point that I have to repair this summer while back in Oregon. I was in deliberations as to what material to use that will be a one-time repair to look decent and withstand the elements. A few weeks ago, I mike'd a small piece of the material and got ~.030".

As of now, I'm tentatively planning on using metal-clad building flat stock (available in multiple colors and gauges)....so a 22 gauge will be my choice at .0299".

Pull a door and lay flat, tape the panel worst pieces together tightly, disassemble panel as carefully as possible for a pattern to transfer onto the metal, apply the measure twice/cut once theory, and spray glue a plastic vapor barrier onto the metal for assembly.

Tis' my plan as of now....that metal will keep it's color longer than I will, able to apply magnetics / decals / contact paper accents / etc that show outside when parked, and ourselves inside when closed.

While between skins, repair any inside foam that gets "disrupted" in the process. Full Custom different color than anyone elses, and a conversational piece to boot.

Will this add any weight to the door, as compared to the original door? If it does, do you think we may need to change hinges for heavier ones?

 

[Routemaster]

Hey Lance, There is this place with 24 gauge that's I think .022 bit lighter I guess what do we need around 16 sq ft?

Metal Flat Sheets For Roofing & Siding Panels (Over 100 Colors)

Metal flat sheets and coil with same day pick up or shipping. Delivery anywhere within the USA. Painted, Galvalume, Bonderized. Request a quote today.

www.westernstatesmetalroofing.com

 

[LBR]

BTW, I'm open for all comments/suggestions on this project. I'm still a few months away from seriously sourcing what and where to get the metal when back in our hometown...figuring a full day travelling to get 2 sheets.

I was wondering about the weight added as well. Our CY doors have the full windows, which HAS to be heavier than doors with smaller windows, so the amount of metal I use will be less than someone who used more metal because of small windows.

I can vouch that our heavier CY doors/hinges have been solid all these years....no sagging from the heavier windows AT ALL. This leads me to believe a little more weight add should not be an issue for our doors/himges...fingers crossed.

I used the link below to arrive at the 22 gauge thickness....figured the same as what's on the door now and an added vapor barrier. But besides the 22, I think there were 24, 26, and 29 gauges listed also...lighter and thinner.

Also my thoughts are maybe one could go thinner, such as 26 ga., and then use a slightly thicker, water resistant REFLECTIVE barrier to help keep the heat-soak lower when doors are open to the hot sun?

Again, other ideas on this thought process are MORE than welcome!!

Metal Roofing Gauges Sizes: 22, 24, 26, 29 - Pros, Cons and Comparison

If you’ve decided to install or replace your metal roofing, then you’ll need to know about gauge, which refers to the thickness of a panel.

legacyusa.com

 

[Routemaster]

Mine is not as bad as that yet mine are either side of the window, not good.

 

[david-steph2018]

The white material reminds me of the material used inside walk-in freezer/refrigerator units.

 

[LBR]

The white material in the door looks like a coarse styrofoam, possibly a sheet trimmed to fit?

 

[roy2]

i just noticed the cracks in my door a couple of weeks ago what a nice surprise im not the only one having this problem.mine 2019 big horn. Wonder why this is comeing up like it is now a days maybe cheaper materials in the door now.what ever.

 

[sengli]

When mine failed it was a common failure, according to the techs at the delaership. My unit was, at that time a 2011 model. Mine showed up after the unit set out for its first winter over season. That spring it had a crack in the inner material.