Too much water pressure buildup in city position through Anderson Kantleak

[danemayer]

Suburban makes the point, water pressure increases with temperature. By the time the water dribbles out the relief valve the pressure in the water system has gone to 150 psi. How many times does that happen before anyone opens the access door to notice that the valve has dribbled? Overpressure due to heating water may be more the cause of failed plumbing than campground overpressure.

If there were a routine buildup of pressure to 150 psi, when you opened a hot water faucet in the coach, you'd get a big burst of high pressure water. 40 psi is pretty good pressure. Just imagine what would come out of the faucet at 150 psi. Might only last for a second or two, but I think you'd notice.

 

[TedS]

https://youtu.be/JYSEaw1XRmQ

Interesting video by Suburban about the relief valve.

You won't get a rush of water because there is very little stored energy. Not like releasing a ballooned water hose. Very little release of water quickly drops the pressure.

 

[McDaniel]

Gentlemen thank you so much for the information you shared and the time you spent answering my question through this holiday weekend, I hope our paths cross in the future and we can share stories of our travels around the fire.

Here’s what I know.
MOST IMPORTANT there are quality people in this form that will take time away from their holiday to help someone out!!! Utilities will fluctuate not only from campground to campground but also from space to space within the campgrounds this is why I have purchased quality surge protector and water regulator, while troubleshooting my water pressure issue I found two faulty parts in my brand new RV, one issue with my Anderson 4 valve water directional device , and my check valve in my Shurflo waterpump. And I still have the same problem.

Gray area.
If this is in fact the water heater causing this issue wouldn’t I notice a build up of pressure on the normal setting as well as the city selection my Anderson valve, also why have I had so many issues with my brand new RV could it be in the prep before I picked up my RV, is it possible they did not monitor pressure while they were sanitizing my RV again a O-ring in my Anderson valve was completely blown out severed in half and the check valve in my water pump blown out

To do list.
I will research and troubleshoot the water heater, I will removew my water pump and have it bench tested if possible to make sure the new head is within specs for pressure shut off in release

A huge thanks to all of you who took time to help me with this issue, I will update you after troubleshooting the water heater, and I will monitor this form for added information

 

[danemayer]

Gray area.
If this is in fact the water heater causing this issue wouldn’t I notice a build up of pressure on the normal setting as well as the city selection my Anderson valve

When set to NORMAL, the 4-way valve connects the suction side of the pump to the fresh water tank feed line. The primary path from the city water inlet to the plumbing fixtures is closed in NORMAL position. However, there is a secondary path on Anderson Valves built in the last 2 years that allows city water to flow when set to NORMAL, and allows the pump to work when set to CITY.

You might test this on your trailer to see if you have a current level valve assembly.

If you have the older valve assembly, the closed off city water path when set to NORMAL would explain why you see a difference on that setting.

 

[TedS]

Dan, I think you nailed the Anderson valve involvment. If in Normal, the blown check valves in the pump would allow water to push through to tank and heated water pressure will not build. But the pressure would rise with the City setting.